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-   -   Drywall paper face issue (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-paper-face-issue-185778/)

info2x 08-23-2013 01:25 AM

Drywall paper face issue
 
I've been working on getting the upstairs of my house painted, patching nail pops, filling divots, sanding paint drips, ect... The one room had a really nasty patch on the ceiling so I figured I would fix that as well. Ended up finding that there wasn't a lot supporting the area and at one point there was a leak. I ended up pulling off a few layers of the paper facing while removing the patch. Do I need to cut this large portion out or can I paint it with a primer/sealer to keep what's left of the paper together?

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...psf8785e89.jpg


My plan was to go into the attaic and add some 2x4s to secure the area. I think I'm going to have to cut a 3" channel and put some fresh drywall in as well at the joint since the existing drywall isn't in great shape.

http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d7d85b9.jpg

I was also going to add some drywall screws to the field since there doesn't seem to be a lot of fasteners 1 every 24"

Nailbags 08-23-2013 02:11 AM

I would replace that and do it right. Sorry but that is just hack job. You need to do it correct.

drywallfinisher 08-23-2013 06:42 AM

replace it

oh'mike 08-23-2013 07:19 AM

Time for new---------

info2x 08-23-2013 07:34 AM

Ok... Wanted to avoid it if I could but if that's the right way so be it. Any good tips on how to make it look good? That's a 3x3.5' area and would essentially be but joints all the way around.

oh'mike 08-23-2013 07:42 AM

Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---

replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)

Use paper tape---use multipurpose (green lid) to set the paper--that mud contains glue and will bond the best---

use the same mud for the first coat or two (powdered Easy sand could be used instead but is more difficult for a novice)---then use Light Weight (blue lid) for the final top coat--it's soft and easier to sand than bag mud or multi purpose--

jeffnc 08-23-2013 07:54 AM

Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.

joecaption 08-23-2013 09:11 AM

Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.

ToolSeeker 08-23-2013 10:00 AM

Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.

info2x 08-23-2013 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToolSeeker (Post 1233113)
Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.

That was my original thought

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1233101)
Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.

Ok

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffnc (Post 1233064)
Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.

That's why I was thinking of cutting a channel down the center of the gap and putting a strip of drywall in there. The water damage has not been kind to the drywall, nor has my hacking away at the joint. :laughing:

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 1233060)
Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---

replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)

Use paper tape---use multipurpose (green lid) to set the paper--that mud contains glue and will bond the best---

use the same mud for the first coat or two (powdered Easy sand could be used instead but is more difficult for a novice)---then use Light Weight (blue lid) for the final top coat--it's soft and easier to sand than bag mud or multi purpose--

Interesting comments on the green lid stuff. I've been using blue lid for most of my repairs since they are minor. Thanks.

info2x 08-23-2013 07:06 PM

Ok so now that I'm home I poked around a little more. Gardz is out. I wanted to measure the thickness of the drywall so I could pick up a sheet if I decided that was the route I wanted to go. The paper on the top of the drywall was done and a substantial chunk fell out of the ceiling that if I were a betting man probably had some mold on it. The upper surface of gypsum was exposed and had clearly seen better days. Looks like I'll be replacing the section.

oh'mike 08-23-2013 07:14 PM

It's not that big of a job---because you do not have tapered edges---plan to feather that tape joint out about 20 to 24 inches----be patient---thin coats----thin----

info2x 08-23-2013 07:28 PM

Yeah I learned the thin lesson while working in the laundry room. Would 1/2" drywall taper to about 3/8"?

I know I'm not getting tapered drywall for this project but I think what was there was tapered and why I got two different measurements.

oh'mike 08-23-2013 07:34 PM

The taper is about 3/8----back in the 1950s they did use 3/8 drywall on economy work---cut out a square and really check it--I do not know if it is still available-----

info2x 08-23-2013 07:38 PM

I thought 3/8" was a little thin so I did take out a chunk about a foot off the edge and it came in at 7/16". Considering that the paper mostly gone on both sides I think I"m good with 1/2"


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