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-   -   Drywall over vinyl coated sheetrock (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-over-vinyl-coated-sheetrock-183786/)

bgjff 07-18-2013 09:13 AM

Drywall over vinyl coated sheetrock
 
Hello all, my first post here. I looked for this topic, and didn't see it, so if this is a duplicated post, my apologies.

I own a double wide, and I want to put drywall over the vinyl covered drywall that is currently in my home.

Any do's and dont's that anyone can recommend?
I have 16" o.c. studs in my walls, and I am thinking of using a 3/8" thick drywall to keep the weight down. I am concerned about the thinness of 3/8 drywall.

If I put this over my existing drywall, is there anything I need to be warned about or cautioned of?

I live in the county, so no city codes to worry about. I have done drywall before, just not over vinyl covered drywall.

Many thanks ahead of time for any help anyone can provide.

bgjff 07-18-2013 03:46 PM

So, any ideas or comments, folks?

:)

joecaption 07-18-2013 08:02 PM

I've done it many times, but you do not want to use 3/8, use 1/4" instead.
Reason being is with anything thick it will through off all the trim.
I use Loctite Power Grab in a big S pattern as well as on the outside border 2" in from the edges of the sheetrock and well as a few screws where the vertical seam is.
When cutting it to go around a door or window you leave it far enough back from the edge of the jambs that the trim will still cover the edge. It's not cut close to the jamb so the molding can still sit flush against it.
Before installing I remove all the outlet covers and the two screws holding the outlet in the box, pull out the outlet and tip it back into the box so the sheetrock can be installed without undoing any wires.
All the sides of the panels have to fall in the middle of a stud!
Often times the first piece will need to be ripped, but before doing that check from the opposite inside corner to see which way the panels where run.
Someone's going to jump all over this idea and tell you it's not going to work, well I've done it on mobile homes, over old failing plaster ECT. at least 10 times and had 0 issues or call backs.

chrisn 07-19-2013 01:49 AM

My question would be WHY?:huh:

bgjff 07-19-2013 06:28 AM

Thanks for the advice! Do you have problems with 1/4 drywall with the screws breaking through, or with it breaking the edges off, etc.?

bgjff 07-19-2013 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1217820)
My question would be WHY?:huh:

Because I absolutely HATE the "trailer look" with the vinyl sheet rock with then strips covering the joints. It screams "mobile home" to me every time I look at it.

joecaption 07-19-2013 07:11 AM

1/4" Has to be handled carefully, it's best to have two people to move it around.
If you use a dimpler the screws should not pull through since it's a wall with no weight pulling down on it like a ceiling would be.
I forgot to mention there needs to be a 1/2" gap up off the floor, and once the panel hits the wall just screw one side then use a hand floor roller to go over the panel to spread out the adhesive so there's no humps behind it. Your going to need very few screws.
Not going to need any at the bottom because the baseboard is going to hold it in place.
Before installing I find the studs and use painters tape on the ceiling or on the floor to mark them. A simple way to install the screws without having to mark the wall is to just stand up the drywall square and use it to line up where the studs are.

chrisn 07-19-2013 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgjff (Post 1217872)
Because I absolutely HATE the "trailer look" with the vinyl sheet rock with then strips covering the joints. It screams "mobile home" to me every time I look at it.


Well, it IS a mobile home, right?:laughing:

I would just paint over it.

kwikfishron 07-19-2013 05:11 PM

Vinyl coated Sheetrock???

Must be an East Coast thing.

joecaption 07-19-2013 07:03 PM

No, it's a mobile home thing.

bgjff 07-22-2013 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1217881)
1/4" Has to be handled carefully, it's best to have two people to move it around.
If you use a dimpler the screws should not pull through since it's a wall with no weight pulling down on it like a ceiling would be.
I forgot to mention there needs to be a 1/2" gap up off the floor, and once the panel hits the wall just screw one side then use a hand floor roller to go over the panel to spread out the adhesive so there's no humps behind it. Your going to need very few screws.
Not going to need any at the bottom because the baseboard is going to hold it in place.
Before installing I find the studs and use painters tape on the ceiling or on the floor to mark them. A simple way to install the screws without having to mark the wall is to just stand up the drywall square and use it to line up where the studs are.

Ok, new questions:

[s]What are dimplers (will Google this)?[/s] Got it, we always called them sinkers.
So make an S pattern with the glue, and then spread it out to make it stick to the wallboard behind it?
Are there any insurance concerns when doing a refit like this in a mobile home (I would think not).

bgjff 07-22-2013 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1218058)
Well, it IS a mobile home, right?:laughing:

I would just paint over it.

I traded a big fancy house in a subdivison for a mobile home on three acres so my kids could have a place to play, raise chickens, etc. The trade off was more than worth it. Doesn't mean I have to like the look of the inside of the house, but I can certainly fix what I have.

After I do this work, I am going to put down hardwood floors and put my baseboard down.
In about three years I am going to increase the slope of the roof and put a new metal roof on my house.

T'will be nice when I am done.

chrisn 07-22-2013 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgjff (Post 1219498)
I traded a big fancy house in a subdivison for a mobile home on three acres so my kids could have a place to play, raise chickens, etc. The trade off was more than worth it. Doesn't mean I have to like the look of the inside of the house, but I can certainly fix what I have.

After I do this work, I am going to put down hardwood floors and put my baseboard down.
In about three years I am going to increase the slope of the roof and put a new metal roof on my house.

T'will be nice when I am done.


I was not putting down mobile homes, I have worked in some really nice ones, like you are trying to make yours. The last one I painted, I just removed all the trim that covered the wall paper seams, skimmed them all out, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted. It would save you a lot of work re dry walling, I would think.

joecaption 07-22-2013 05:12 PM

Not a great cost effective plan to install hardwood in a mobile home.
More often then not there's just particle board subflooring that's not going to hold a nail or staple, even if it's plywood laminate or a step up engineered flooring would be far more cost effective.
I've lived in mobile homes until I was old enough and have owned two. But they are what they are and there only going to worth just so much when you go to sell them no matter what you try and do.

bgjff 07-23-2013 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1219605)
I was not putting down mobile homes, I have worked in some really nice ones, like you are trying to make yours. The last one I painted, I just removed all the trim that covered the wall paper seams, skimmed them all out, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted. It would save you a lot of work re dry walling, I would think.

Oh, I knew that you were not putting them down. :)

I was just listing my plans out. I did a test run of trying to just fix the sheetrock in a bathroom, and it just did not go well- looks kind of bad because there is no spreadspace along the vertical seams. I think I will be happier doing the rewalling since I can mud it correctly.


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