Drywall Over Plastered Cinderblock - Drywall & Plaster - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Drywall & Plaster


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-30-2012, 01:50 PM   #1
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10

Drywall over plastered cinderblock

I am building a closet in the basement of my 1938 Denver home. The outside walls are plaster over cinderblock and although I do not have a big moisture problem, the plaster is crumbeling away in several spots and a paint with drylock job only lasted about 7 years last time. I have been in several open houses in my neighborhood and it seems that this is common even when the basement looks newly remodeled.

I just want a nice, clean, and even surface so was thiniking just adding drywall to the walls. For the interior walls that is easy enough (studded plaster, just going to throw some 3/8th or 1/4 drywall up and fix the door trim). For the exterior walls, should I:

1) Just add the dry wall right to the wall
2) add a spacer with thin studs so the dry wall does not touch the old plaster,
3) Add some sort of moisture barrieir; OR
4) something else.

Thanks, advice is appreciated. I did a search and did not find a good answer for this except one mention of just throwing it up with mud and roofing nails right to the plaster. That person daid it was done all the time in Missouri. Sure sounds easy if that will be safe with the little bit of moisture that may be present.

Thanks for any help!


nateco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2012, 04:03 PM   #2
Beanfacekilla's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 25
Rewards Points: 10

Hello. I have read your post. I can only offer some info to help you decide, and it is this:

First, a few tidbits about concrete...

It would be ideal to think of concrete (block, poured, whatever) as a big wet sponge. Concrete will often wick moisture into anything touching it (wood, drywall, etc.). That being said, I don't think it is wise to slap drywall right on there. Even if you stud a wall in front of it, and drywall that, the studs will rot eventually if they are touching concrete. Then it would possibly be moldy in the cavities behind the drywall.

Ideally, you could build a studded portion about an inch away from the concrete wall. You should use a pressure treated bottom plate, and it wouldn't hurt to throw a sill gasket under the bottom plate.

As for a vapor barrier:

Some people use rigid styrofoam insulation (sealed up tight at the seams and edges) mounted to the concrete for a vapor barrier (in basements). Then studded wall in front of the rigid foam, insulation, and finally drywall.

Another way is studded wall with insulation, and vapor barrier over studded wall, then drywall.

It is important to check with your town/city/state for regualtions and codes for your situation.

From the short explanation you gave, I believe the plaster wall crumbled over the years because it was mounted to concrete.

If you were to just slap drywall on the concrete, it is possible - and likely - it would mold somethin' fierce behind the drywall.

This is just my opinion. I hope you can take something from it that helps you.



Beanfacekilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2012, 11:53 PM   #3
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526

From "bad" to "best"; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...study-analysis

If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Gary in WA For This Useful Post:
coupe (02-02-2012)
Old 02-01-2012, 11:29 AM   #4
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10

Thanks For the Help

Excellent, that gives me what I need. Thank You! I think I will go with the well taped XPS insulation, new studs, and then the 1/2" dry wall. Maybe some unfaced R13 behind the wall as well, may as well.

Thanks again!
nateco is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to nateco For This Useful Post:
Gary in WA (02-01-2012)

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Do I Need To Strap Exterior Walls (Interior Side) Before Drywall? Dreams Drywall & Plaster 4 09-26-2011 04:37 PM
Options: Cinderblock wall w/ furring strips paulyg Electrical 0 07-27-2010 01:14 PM
Matching new drywall to old textured drywall pennshaq Drywall & Plaster 1 05-23-2010 09:30 AM
Drywall directly on Cinderblock blau808 Drywall & Plaster 9 04-08-2010 12:50 PM
Good ways to run pegboard up to drywall? upthemaiden Drywall & Plaster 1 03-09-2009 01:12 PM

Top of Page | View New Posts


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1