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nateco 01-30-2012 01:50 PM

Drywall over plastered cinderblock
I am building a closet in the basement of my 1938 Denver home. The outside walls are plaster over cinderblock and although I do not have a big moisture problem, the plaster is crumbeling away in several spots and a paint with drylock job only lasted about 7 years last time. I have been in several open houses in my neighborhood and it seems that this is common even when the basement looks newly remodeled.

I just want a nice, clean, and even surface so was thiniking just adding drywall to the walls. For the interior walls that is easy enough (studded plaster, just going to throw some 3/8th or 1/4 drywall up and fix the door trim). For the exterior walls, should I:

1) Just add the dry wall right to the wall
2) add a spacer with thin studs so the dry wall does not touch the old plaster,
3) Add some sort of moisture barrieir; OR
4) something else.

Thanks, advice is appreciated. I did a search and did not find a good answer for this except one mention of just throwing it up with mud and roofing nails right to the plaster. That person daid it was done all the time in Missouri. Sure sounds easy if that will be safe with the little bit of moisture that may be present.

Thanks for any help!

Beanfacekilla 01-31-2012 04:03 PM

Hello. I have read your post. I can only offer some info to help you decide, and it is this:

First, a few tidbits about concrete...

It would be ideal to think of concrete (block, poured, whatever) as a big wet sponge. Concrete will often wick moisture into anything touching it (wood, drywall, etc.). That being said, I don't think it is wise to slap drywall right on there. Even if you stud a wall in front of it, and drywall that, the studs will rot eventually if they are touching concrete. Then it would possibly be moldy in the cavities behind the drywall.

Ideally, you could build a studded portion about an inch away from the concrete wall. You should use a pressure treated bottom plate, and it wouldn't hurt to throw a sill gasket under the bottom plate.

As for a vapor barrier:

Some people use rigid styrofoam insulation (sealed up tight at the seams and edges) mounted to the concrete for a vapor barrier (in basements). Then studded wall in front of the rigid foam, insulation, and finally drywall.

Another way is studded wall with insulation, and vapor barrier over studded wall, then drywall.

It is important to check with your town/city/state for regualtions and codes for your situation.

From the short explanation you gave, I believe the plaster wall crumbled over the years because it was mounted to concrete.

If you were to just slap drywall on the concrete, it is possible - and likely - it would mold somethin' fierce behind the drywall.

This is just my opinion. I hope you can take something from it that helps you.


Gary in WA 01-31-2012 11:53 PM

From "bad" to "best";


nateco 02-01-2012 11:29 AM

Thanks For the Help
Excellent, that gives me what I need. Thank You! I think I will go with the well taped XPS insulation, new studs, and then the 1/2" dry wall. Maybe some unfaced R13 behind the wall as well, may as well.

Thanks again!

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