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Old 05-12-2013, 03:24 AM   #16
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Drywall in new build


Sorry this were you have a come unto Jesus talk with the builder. You let him know 1 who is paying for this you are. second it is unexceptable. and has to be redone at his expence! Third get a new GC lined up fast so when he is done fixing the problem you fire him. Also if he won't give you the time of day or blows you off get the bank involved the bank wants to see what is happening to their money. Never accept poor quality workmanship in the house your building.

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Old 05-12-2013, 08:04 AM   #17
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Drywall in new build


As a taper and finisher this is a horrible job and to accept it is wrong. And yes I could cover it up but you would't like my bill. And as stated your asking for a lot of problems down the road and if you accept it now they will be your problems then. I would get ahold of a drywall contractor get an estimate and present it to the contractor and tell him if he thought the job was acceptable before then you don't trust his judgment.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:36 PM   #18
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Bad job. Notice the piece above the window is pushing the window head jamb drywall strip down, showing a bad reveal along the window jamb, which you will always see later. Amateurs... plus the header nailing may give you problems later, check nail length as well, pp.11; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...711HulsBKUaB2g

Here are some other tips; http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf

http://books.google.com/books?id=IS-...0paper&f=false

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021174058.pdf

The drywall bible; http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/G...%20English.pdf

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/sol...erfections.htm


Gary
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:58 PM   #19
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Drywall in new build


Thanks again guys. I value your thoughts and appreciate your time. I just sent an email to the builder, realtor, and salesperson. I'm planning to talk with the super and then move up the ladder of leadership. So far the builder has been a bit of a let down... and they are A+ BBB, supposedly very reputable, ... We purposely went with them expecting better quality. It's a 280k home (or it's supposed to be).

I do have some pics of the framing too. I didn't like things I saw with that either. Unfortunately, we were told to stay off the site due to OSHA laws even though 10-12 yrs. were on the sites with their parents and running wires through the walls. The framing pics I have are more limited than the drywall.
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:21 PM   #20
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What's going on in that first picture of the framing towards the top? Looks like a bunch of random 2x4s stacked on each other. Is that a header?
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:36 PM   #21
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All I know is that's like a popout... It's not an arch; it will be more like a squared popout, on the interior, splitting two rooms. ?

I do appreciate your comments guys/girls. I've shared some comments with the builder/super already.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:00 PM   #22
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The wide jamb doorway header is fine as they nail each block added to the one before, all tied to the truss above. They did remove a 2' high (horizontal) drywall backer block in the small bathroom where the sink drain elbows out, bumped stud off layout an inch or so for the plumbing... framer should add the block-- the plumber knocked out. Could shim the bottom only of the plastic switch box on the now-out-of-plumb stud so the faceplate will plumb-up after finish electrical.
I'd like to see more slack in the drop Pex lines to the manifold for expansion, but I'm not a plumber...ask about it in our "Plumbing" forum... I may be wrong. I don't see the Pex line for the toilet supply, perhaps it's hidden from camera view (I hope)...Is the bath fan ducted, hard to see, also?

Lining up the ceiling cans, in the last pic, they appear off a little, long as drywall without any parallel board ceiling, you should be fine.

Gary
PS. If you have access, take a picture of every wall before drywall/insulation, for number/location of every electrical outlet/switch/plumbing clean-out, no arguing later, lol.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:50 PM   #23
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:21 PM   #24
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:43 AM   #25
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How in the ---- do you conclude money is the problem? I just re-read every post in this tread and the only time money was mentioned was that the house was $280,000. Since you infer in your posts you think this is an OK or good drywall job is this the kinda work your customers can expect from you in a $280,000 home? And just so you know as a drywall pro I am offended that you would come on here as a pro and make unfounded assumptions and defend this grade of workmanship. You don't have any idea of the money situation, and it really doesn't matter if he is paid to date or even in advance it is no excuse for crap work. If your not paid then you quit work till you are paid you don't do this.

Last edited by Gary in WA; 05-16-2013 at 07:26 PM. Reason: Keep forum "G" rating.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drywallfinisher View Post
most bull nose is vinyl and installing it around windows is very labor intensive. Expect more troubles if the money issues are not addressed.

what I like so much about forums like these is that I can comment with 100% honesty and not worry about offending someone.

I've been through this type of scenario on the other end and can recognize crap when I see it.
Drywall is brutal work and requires a proper attitude that cant be fixed by the guy who carries the insurance and orders the mud. If the crew where paid properly they could have slowed down and taken the time it takes to not have a busted fit to a pipe. They know what they are doing and someone else doesn't. simple really
poor craftsmanship is poor craftsmanship. and the OP never said anything about cost. this is a hack job from h---! If I was the owner the Drywaller would be back charged and be fired!
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:23 PM   #27
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All members, please keep our forum rules (under "Terms of service" and "Privacy statement" at bottom of every page) in mind when answering, a post has been removed, thank you. Gary

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