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-   -   Drywall - fixing patches from torn off glue (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-fixing-patches-torn-off-glue-58165/)

DK75 11-29-2009 09:00 PM

Drywall - fixing patches from torn off glue
 
I removed a bathroom mirror that was held onto the wall with glue in various spots. Going to hang a smaller, more decorative mirror with new fixtures. When removing the mirror, the glue remained onto the mirror and tore off the paint and paper layer of the drywall. I am left with various spots of the brown paper backing.

I by no means claim to be good at drywall work, but can eventually get the job done well. I seem to come across this problem often. What is the best way to fix or patch the spots on the wall where the brown paper is exposed.

I can't just spread some compound over the area and smooth out. As it dries, the paper seems to ripple. I eventually have to do several coats and sanding in between. I am assuming the paper is geting moist and rippling.

I am currently using regular USG joint compound premixed.

Any advice on procedure, methods, tricks, or even the preferred compound is greatly appreciated.

chrisn 11-30-2009 02:47 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Apply Gardz first( before jc) and you will have no problems. This is what it was made for.:yes:

user1007 11-30-2009 05:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 359234)
Apply Gardz first( before jc) and you will have no problems. This is what it was made for.:yes:

Gardz is a good choice. Do remember you need to prime again over your repairs!

I use dry mix compound (hot mud) for these sorts of things as it doesn't stay wet so long as out of the bucket stuff. The 5-minute stuff works especially great but you have to brace yourself to work fast because the set-up time starts almost the minute the powder is out of the bag/box and it sniffs moisture. You might be more comfortable with 20 or 45 minute to start and until you get the hang of mixing it (you can pick your consistency to a point). Let it set-up in your pan until you feel it starting to cure.

You can buy compound, ($8 or so a bag/box retail?) with set-up times from 5-20-45-90 or even 120 minutes. I add this stuff called NoPox which seems to help mix it and makes cleaning up tools a lot easier---and it is cheap. I suspect it is nothing more than the surfacing agents used in dishwashing soap?

I have a long, cute, plastic, multi-shape drywall knife thing a former girlfriend gave me many years ago that I find worthless for anything else but perfect for mixing the stuff in a nice drywall pan. Especially with the five minute stuff, you don't have time to go over anything more than once so make sure you have at least a nice, flexible 4" minimum width drywall blade. I find it easier to just use my 12" and lay the stuff down, pass back over it once. Sand/wet sand in just a bit and you are ready to prime and paint. Note that it will take a little more energy to do this than bucket mud. It is heavier in weight.

Get it out of your pan when you feel it hardening on you though or it will take longer to clean things up. Mix small amounts at a time or have another person working with you if ever working on a larger areas.

bjbatlanta 12-01-2009 05:32 PM

The primer over the raw paper is the key to sealing it to avoid blistering. Any spot that are loose should be cut out prior to primer. Ready mix or setting type compound will work once the paper is sealed....

DK75 12-07-2009 07:16 PM

Thanks for the information. I picked up a quart of Gardz and it worked out perfectly. Sealed the exposed paper and provided a barrier to keep the joint compound from blistering. I wish I had this in previous projects to save me the time and hassle of continuous and repetitive sanding.

Thanks again.


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