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Old 01-27-2014, 01:38 PM   #31
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I thought the piece was too short.
No. The gap is along the edge where the ceiling sheet meets the wall.

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Old 01-29-2014, 01:21 AM   #32
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Inside corners


What is the easiest product for beginners to use for inside corners? I'd like to avoid the paper tape if possible. The walls were already drywalled and painted by a previous owner.

1) The joint where walls meet ceiling?

2) Inside corner of soffit?

Thanks.

Last edited by Jim McC; 01-29-2014 at 01:24 AM.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:50 PM   #33
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Thanks for the tips.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:59 PM   #34
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What is the easiest product for beginners to use for inside corners? I'd like to avoid the paper tape if possible. The walls were already drywalled and painted by a previous owner.

1) The joint where walls meet ceiling?

2) Inside corner of soffit?

Thanks.
Trim tex makes different tapes that are heavier and wider to make it eaiser to work with for inside corners
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:59 AM   #35
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Trim Tex doesn't make any tape to the best of my knowledge. No Coat makes 8' pre cut inside corners, pricey but easy and perfect corners. Strait flex also makes one called perfect 90 again a little pricey. Don't know what you have against paper tape, but my advice is use anything but the mesh. There is a great new product out there called FibaFuse but it is hard to use in corners.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:20 AM   #36
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Thanks for the tips~!
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:46 PM   #37
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If anyone is interested I found a free resource where you can get 8% cash back on every purchase you make at Lowes and Home Depot. It's free and the best kept secret around.

Just wanting to help...
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:52 PM   #38
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I wish that I read this post before making this stupid mistake (and gluing the drywall down). Any suggestions for compensating for this? It will be a big job/expense to rip out the drywall and do it over.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:11 PM   #39
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I wish that I read this post before making this stupid mistake (and gluing the drywall down). Any suggestions for compensating for this? It will be a big job/expense to rip out the drywall and do it over.
A lot of drywall is being glue down now, less fasteners=less chance of pops. Really shouldn't be much harder to remove unless you went crazy with the glue.
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Old 09-11-2015, 08:52 PM   #40
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For inside corners, there is a special kind of tape called "Perfect 90". It is much stiffer than regular tape, but still flexes in the middle. It practically makes the corner for you. I love that stuff.

For custom patches of any shape, use fiberglass window screening material.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:48 AM   #41
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Re: Drywall FAQ - Common Questions Answered, + Tips and Tricks!


Outside metal corner beads - take a look at a few YouTube installation videos (attach with screws or nails, dimple them in slightly, apply the harder-drying [and thus more resistant to the inevitable real-life bumps and scrapes] "hot" mud, use a 6" knife to spread the mud by letting one end of the knife ride on the corner nose of the bead, etc.).

Then, one thing many of the videos do not specifically state is that you do not need to or want to apply mud to the very nose of the metal corner bead (the "corner" of the corner bead). Two reasons: 1) It is very difficult to do and get a uniform tiny rounded corner the entire length of the bead, and 2) It's not practical - that's a spot that's prone to getting hit in real life; any mud you put on the very nose will likely crack and flake off when first hit so save yourself repeated future repair headaches.

Primer and topcoat paint will stick to the tiny portion of the exposed metal all the way up and down the corner bead. The future benefit is that paint-alone won't have the same "cracking and flaking off" reaction a hit on paint-over-mud on the corner can have, and even if the paint on a painted corner is scraped off by a hit, it's far easier and quicker to do a little touch-up painting that trying to apply some mud back on a little of exposed metal and then painting it again.
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Old 07-03-2016, 12:19 PM   #42
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Re: Drywall FAQ - Common Questions Answered, + Tips and Tricks!


I don't really care for the no-coat sticks . I prefer the USG B1 Super wides

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/e...rner-bead.html

I cant remember the last time i used a shiny 90. IMO The less fasteners in a sheet of rock the better the finish . Now and later on. wet green lumber or moisture in the board itself can cause all sorts of problems. And yes. too much glue in the fields can cause screw pops when the glue shrinks back. A 1/4 bead is all that's needed . That being said. I've walked into homes that wasn't glued with screw pops everywhere!!

I have a you tube channel of some of my work If anyone Is interested in the type of work I do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXV...zcbqCutSnY0nTQ

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