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Drywall FAQ - Common Questions Answered, + Tips and Tricks!

53K views 45 replies 24 participants last post by  jeffmattero76 
#1 ·
As requested, this will be a "Sticky" for the Drywall forum to answer Frequently Asked Questions, as well as some helpful Tips and Tricks to help you through your drywall DIY.

DM
 
#2 ·
1. If you have never done drywall before, don't start before you've either read a decent book (with lots of illustrations). If you don't know what a butt joint is, that's a good sign you need to do more reading. Youtube is also a good source for seeing what things look like, although bear in mind that everyone has their own approach and some videos may contradict each other.

2. Make sure your first effort is small or in a location where results don't matter as much (basement, garage, etc). Your first few times doing taping/mudding are where you will do most of the learning.

3. What is underneath matters a lot. If you're doing a remodel or new project from scratch, make sure you've done your drywall related research first. That "good enough" framing job could end up being an absolute nightmare to drywall.

4. Measure twice, cut once. Just like in carpentry, only moreso. Plan your layout on paper or chalked/pencilled on the studs before you get started.

5. Fixing a small hole might be best addressed by a bigger hole. Depends on location, etc, but if your first time looking at drywall is when you've "got a hole in my drywall I need to fix", there's a good chance that the best way to have it looking nice is to cut a regular shaped section out and screw it in place before going for the mud, tape, etc. (maybe this could have it's own post below, I suspect a lot of google searches want this part answered).
 
#4 ·
1. If you have never done drywall before, don't start before you've either read a decent book (with lots of illustrations). If you don't know what a butt joint is, that's a good sign you need to do more reading. Youtube is also a good source for seeing what things look like, although bear in mind that everyone has their own approach and some videos may contradict each other.

2. Make sure your first effort is small or in a location where results don't matter as much (basement, garage, etc). Your first few times doing taping/mudding are where you will do most of the learning.

3. What is underneath matters a lot. If you're doing a remodel or new project from scratch, make sure you've done your drywall related research first. That "good enough" framing job could end up being an absolute nightmare to drywall.

4. Measure twice, cut once. Just like in carpentry, only more so. Plan your layout on paper or chalked/pencilled on the studs before you get started.

5. Fixing a small hole might be best addressed by a bigger hole. Depends on location, etc, but if your first time looking at drywall is when you've "got a hole in my drywall I need to fix", there's a good chance that the best way to have it looking nice is to cut a regular shaped section out and screw it in place before going for the mud, tape, etc. (maybe this could have it's own post below, I suspect a lot of google searches want this part answered).
holes the size of a quarter can be patched fairly easy? as well as gashes say an inch wide,length?

when patching these, drywall tape is 2 inches wide but 250 feet long. for holes and gashes, use freshly opened mud, unmixed or thinned down, with 6" knife coat heavily forcing mud deep into hole/dash force completely through drywall so it's hanging on inside wall like plaster. when it dries this will keep from falling out. put tape over hole as soon as you can, 6"knife without pushing all mud through wall but allowing tape to be held till dry at least 24 hours. as drying, the tape will be sucked into the wall allowing you to second and third coat with the widest knife or trowel you can find? put a slight bend in trowel or knife to form an arch in the mud as you put it over the tape. remember the knife is arched. so the flatter you go over the tape the more it will cover and feather out to edges. practice first in areas that can be clean and washed off completely.

hold knife close to on edge as you approach tape, bringing more flat going over tape allowing tape to be buried deeper under mud. it may take more than 3 coats? but you can get it so nobody will notice it's there unless they knew it was before!

just my thoughts and experience

good luck
coupe
 
#3 ·
I will start out by bringing you the good news that you no longer have to worry too much what a "Butt Joint" is.

Butt joints used to be the bane of drywall finishers. No longer.

The introduction of a very inexpensive product called a "Butt Board" totally eliminates the need to fight with the heretofor dreaded bump caused by the butt joint standard hanging leaves you to deal with.

You can research and learn about butt boards, but for now, just be happy that they were invented.
 
#5 ·
These things are fantastic.
And for patching the big box stores now carry patches that are a piece of thin aluminum with a fiberglass mesh over it. It comes 4"x4" 6"x6" and 8"x8" and they are sticky on the back so no screws just stick them on the wall and cover with joint compound very DIY friendly.
 
#11 ·
The only trouble with the plastic is when the bucket is open air gets in, then when you seal it back up the bacteria in the air grows for lack of a better term and this is what makes the mud sour or go bad. The bleach kills the bacteria. The plastic will work but you must be sure to get all the mud covered. The plastic that comes in the bucket is more to keep it from drying out. One thing a lot of people don't do is wipe the inside walls of the bucket down with a wet cloth or brush. If you ever notice when you open a used bucket of mud there is usually water on top so this also keeps a wet enviroment whice promotes bacteria growth.
 
#16 ·
When you put your corner bead on the tapered side it makes it to low so you don't get that valley to fill and make every thing level. Your corner would be more toward round than square. I don't think I'm defining this very well. Let me know and I will try a different way.
 
#19 ·
If you only see ultralight drywall (about 40 lbs. per 4 x 8 sheet), it may not be because they're out of standard weight drywall. Some places don't carry standard weight.

No need for a stab saw. You can cut all the way through 1/2" drywall with a utility knife if you make enough passes and you'll make less dust.

Remember the taper when measuring the thickness. Drywall is thinner at the edges of the long sides.

My local big box store sells two sheets to the pack. Don't take two packs thinking they're two sheets.
 
#21 ·
wet or dry tape?

Opinions: Is it best, advisable, or worse to wet the drywall tape before laying it into the mud? I've always wet it (run it quickly through a bucket of water, then pull it through my fingers and squeegie it off ) so it does not dry the mud too quickly. Good idea? Bad idea? Doesn't matter stink? thanks.
 
#22 ·
Opinions: Is it best, advisable, or worse to wet the drywall tape before laying it into the mud? I've always wet it (run it quickly through a bucket of water, then pull it through my fingers and squeegie it off ) so it does not dry the mud too quickly. Good idea? Bad idea? Doesn't matter stink? thanks.
waste of time! no need to do it at all.
 
#24 ·
How wide of a gap can be fixed properly?

We just drywalled my daughter's basement ceiling. The walls were already done by a previous owner. The problem is, one of the ceiling sheets is short by 5/8" at the widest point, where it meets the wall. The gap runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists. I saw online where they first put up mesh tape, then mudded the wall/ceiling joint. Will that work with a 5/8" wide gap, or is there a better way? Thanks.
 
#34 ·
What is the easiest product for beginners to use for inside corners? I'd like to avoid the paper tape if possible. The walls were already drywalled and painted by a previous owner.

1) The joint where walls meet ceiling?

2) Inside corner of soffit?

Thanks.
Trim tex makes different tapes that are heavier and wider to make it eaiser to work with for inside corners
 
#35 ·
Trim Tex doesn't make any tape to the best of my knowledge. No Coat makes 8' pre cut inside corners, pricey but easy and perfect corners. Strait flex also makes one called perfect 90 again a little pricey. Don't know what you have against paper tape, but my advice is use anything but the mesh. There is a great new product out there called FibaFuse but it is hard to use in corners.
 
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