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forcedreno2012 05-01-2013 03:08 AM

drywall cutter - will I kill it?
Lets just say when we were tearing out the bottom 4 feet of drywall we were not too worried about it being straight. :eek:

I now need to make the cuts level and I need to lop of 1/2 inch so that we will have a 1/2 gap on the bottom of floor when we put up the new drywall. This is basically throughout the whole house.

I was looking at the DeWalt cut out tool and wondered is it going to burn out cutting that much drywall in one hit? I know these are primarily for cutting holes for elec boxes etc but wondered if I can do it this way. I would be getting the corded one as I know I would be wearing out the batteries faster than I can charge them.

I know it will be dusty but there is nothing in the back half of the house so that is not an issue.



oh'mike 05-01-2013 04:43 AM

You will have better cut and less cut wires using a Saws All----

Install the blade backwards---set the tool flat against the wall and rock it forward until you have a 1/2" deep cut----

With practice you will be able to avoid cutting your studs,wires and pipes---

The rotary cutter will make a mess----to deep==cut wires---jagged cut---

mikegp 05-01-2013 07:31 AM

I think most reciprocating saws have a depth adjustment to make that even simpler. I know my Makita does. Just practice the angle you need and it should be very easy.

forcedreno2012 05-01-2013 10:25 AM

Hmmmm not sure on the recip saw. We had to get the granddaddy one to cut through the ironwood studs. Thing is huge. :eek: (Probably the only tool that makes me nervous)

Good news is the walls are nekked from the waist down so I know where all the wires are etc. I will give it a go and see how it goes. Thanks for the suggestion.

kwikfishron 05-01-2013 10:41 AM

199 Attachment(s)
If the Sheetrock was hung horizontally there should be joint at 4'. All you have to do is cut the tape line with a razor knife. If you go with the sawzall buy a short (4”) blade, put it in backwards as Mike mentioned and that should keep you out of trouble if pay attention on how deep you're cutting.

If you're “not comfortable” with tool then ask someone that is for help.

Willie T 05-01-2013 10:42 AM

If you are talking about an "oscillating" tool, I suspect that you will eat up quite a few blades before you get around the whole house... and they aren't cheap.

coupe 05-01-2013 03:56 PM

this can be done very easily, simply tack up a guide on wall. I prefer extruded material over wood, less imperfections can keep straight meta corner bead is cheapest way to go I think. the De Walt cut off tool looks like as maybe 2 1/2-3" base? measure from edge of base to edge of bit, chalk a line, white chalk. fasten corner bead to studs with screws placed above edge of bead to nor cause bulges yet low enough that tape will cover screw holes. set bit depth to 7/16" run tool base along bead tight. lots of dust wear a mask, the last 2" or so from inside corners can cut with razor knife plus last 1/16" all along cut.

do not use red chalk! red will bleed through mud and paint eventually, try to keep any chalk line in area that tape will cover though white shouldn't be a problem.

I once did a job at Sikorsky aircraft in Stamford Ct. 3 floor parking garage each floor took 8000 sheets of 12' 5/8" drywall. once drywall was hung and finished we had to go back and rout out 1/4 wide x 1/2" deep 10'x10' squares for expansion beads yes went through a few bits, but never burnt out a cheap black and Decker plunge router doing thousands of feet of cutting in this way. the trick is, you can kind of cover the vents from dust with your hand while moving router along move in direction dust is blowing away while muffling dust going in.

Evenfurther 05-03-2013 04:41 PM

For true straight and level cuts, I set up a self leveling laser, trace the line with blue painter tape, shut off the level, and cut along the tape edge with a saws all.

I angle the saw so it doesn't cut too deep. I'll then trace the cut with a box cutter (sharp blade) to feel and make sure I cut all the way thru.

forcedreno2012 05-03-2013 06:10 PM

Thanks all for the suggestions.

Lets just say as short as I am and as high as I had to cut the sawsall was just wasn't not going to work. The sawsall was a bust.....literally:laughing: .

I ended up using the ledger idea though and just used the hand drywall saw. I now have and arm like a gorilla that hangs on the floor but dammit I am halfway there. Putting tape up under the ledger also keeps the tears to a minimum. Little bit of sanding and you would never know it was done by hand.


jproffer 05-03-2013 06:33 PM


I now have and arm like a gorilla that hangs on the floor but dammit I am halfway there.
Well that's perfect just switch arms and when you're done you'll have TWO gorilla arms......even it up :thumbsup:

princelake 05-03-2013 07:54 PM

i'd get a couple sheets of plywood and add a piece to the bottom to get 48 1/2"-49" and get the cut out tool. place the plywood on the floor and run along the plywood. do all your longest walls then cut the plywood to fit the smaller walls. i'd also tape my shop vac to the cut out tool to keep the dust down. remember to set your depth correctly and you'll prbably just burn out a couple bits. and the dewalt bits suck. get the roto zip bits and consider getting the roto zip tool to.

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