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-   -   Drywall Ceiling Patch Repair Butt Joint and Size of Repair Area (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-ceiling-patch-repair-butt-joint-size-repair-area-188784/)

bettyRubble 10-18-2013 01:07 PM

Drywall Ceiling Patch Repair Butt Joint and Size of Repair Area
 
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Hi all. Repairing a water damaged ceiling (leak cause has been repaired). I have been reading different posts on this and still have a couple of questions.

I am still in the process of removing the damaged area (still need to remove light fixture and adjacent drywall). You can see the bow of the drywall in the back two sides of the cut out area still need to be removed. Question is should the cut out area go all the way to the corner of the ceiling where it meets the walls or just stay in the ceiling area. It looks like the damaged ceiling area does not go all the way to the wall.

Also, these will all be butt joints. Is feathering out as far as possible with multiple topping coats the best method for smoothing these joints flat?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

ToolSeeker 10-18-2013 03:17 PM

I would not go clear to the wall because then the wall becomes involved in the taping process. Try to end your cuts on a joist, even on the edge of a joist is ok because you can add blocks so you will have something to screw too. You may need to add blocking on the ends also to screw the new and old pieces too. For the butts use paper tape and the all purpose mud (bright green lid) and yes multiple coats and feather each wider. And remember you take most of the mud back off you may still be able to see the tape after 2 coats. If you use thick coats you will get a hump that is hard to hide.

bettyRubble 10-18-2013 07:42 PM

Thanks ToolSeeker! I appreciate the help. I am proceeding with the cuts and blocking as you have said.

I will use paper tape and the all purpose mud. Should the all purpose mud (bright green lid) be used for all the coats of just maybe the first couple and then switch to the topping compound? Or just use the all purpose for all the coats? I understand the coats need to be thin!

Also, would there be any benefit to try and sand the area of existing drywall (on the ceiling that will butt up to the new drywall) to try and remove paint/texture and some mud so there would be more depth to lay in the new mud, tape, and top coats of mud? Or does this risk tearing into the paper of the drywall? Thank again!

ToolSeeker 10-18-2013 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bettyRubble (Post 1255218)
Thanks ToolSeeker! I appreciate the help. I am proceeding with the cuts and blocking as you have said.

I will use paper tape and the all purpose mud. Should the all purpose mud (bright green lid) be used for all the coats of just maybe the first couple and then switch to the topping compound? Or just use the all purpose for all the coats? I understand the coats need to be thin!

Also, would there be any benefit to try and sand the area of existing drywall (on the ceiling that will butt up to the new drywall) to try and remove paint/texture and some mud so there would be more depth to lay in the new mud, tape, and top coats of mud? Or does this risk tearing into the paper of the drywall? Thank again!

The all purpose will work for all the coats, but to use light weight (bright blue lid) or topping (light blue lid) for your final coat will be quite a bit easier to sand and blend in around the edge.
No there would be no benefit your mud will smooth it out, and when you sand your mud around the edge it will take care of it.

bettyRubble 10-21-2013 11:26 AM

Thanks again ToolSeeker for your advice! It is working out well so far.


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