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-   -   Drywall for basement (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-basement-186355/)

bryanp22 09-02-2013 11:45 AM

Drywall for basement
 
Hey,
What do people recommend for a basement the mold and mildew resistant stuff or just standard drywall. I am not considering lightweight at all.

ToolSeeker 09-02-2013 12:39 PM

Tell us more about the basement. Is this a re-do or was it never finished? Has there ever been moisture problems? Is there an odor of mold or mildew? how are you going to attach the drywall (meaning to studs or furring strips)? Are you installing vapor barriers?
And just out of curiosity why not the light weight?

bryanp22 09-02-2013 01:18 PM

I had read it did not block sound quite as well and I'd like to block noises from the laundry area in my basement. It's never been finished before. I have 2x4 framing and never had a moisture problem. I did xps against the walls and then am doing roxul inbetween the studs. I always have a dehumidifier running as well.

ToolSeeker 09-02-2013 02:56 PM

With what you describe and since you have a dehumidifier running tells me you have a little concern. I would recommend the moisture resistant. Doesn't cost that much more, no harder to work with, and will give you piece of mind. I had not heard that about the light weight but worth looking into.

Maintenance 6 09-03-2013 04:36 PM

If it's below grade it should be either Densarmor or MMR board (mold/moisture resistant). The extra cost is minimal for the long term benfit.

bryanp22 09-16-2013 12:31 PM

Is 1/2 the correct thickness for walls and ceilings? I live in se Wisconsin.

ToolSeeker 09-16-2013 06:33 PM

1/2 will work but some areas require 5/8 for ceilings.

bryanp22 09-17-2013 12:18 PM

What is the recommended method for making cutouts for switches and outlets for newbies?

princelake 09-21-2013 07:16 AM

mold and mildew board is a joke. it gets gross and moldy like regular drywall.
for switches and outlets if nothing is hooked up just mark where the box is and tack your board up and use a rotozip to cut out the box.
if its a reno and all the plugs are hooked up you need to shut the power off at the breaker panel. take the cover plates off. unscrew the top and bottom screw and pull the plug/switch out of the box. tape around the plug/switch where the wires are connected to the plug/switch covering any exposed copper wires using electrical tape. i then take the plug/switch and push the top of it into the box so the thing just isnt dangling there. i then turn the power back on.
now you can measure to make a cut for the box. always measure top down. use a key hole saw to cut out the boxes. once you got your boards up. turn the power back off. screw the plugs/switches back onto the box. leave the cover plates off till after you got the place painted.

ToolSeeker 09-21-2013 08:34 AM

[QUOTE=princelake;1244517]mold and mildew board is a joke. it gets gross and moldy like regular drywall.
This board is not mold and mildew PROOF but it is mold and mildew RESISTANT. So yes under the right conditions mold and mildew will grow, but these conditions need to be a little more severe than with regular board.

princelake 09-21-2013 01:42 PM

i work in restoration and i've been to hundreds of floods and have redone many homes. i've ripped out tons of mold/mildew board with mold all up the board that wasn't flood related. If there's paper on the board it will get moldy.


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