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bparise 10-08-2009 09:44 AM

Drywall
 
We are converting a 3rd floor to finished space. While framing in a door for a small linen closet in the bathroom, I realized that the outside rake wall (with window) is not plumb (about 2 1/2" at the top of the door).

The picture shows you the door that is framed, which is plumb and details...

My question is, do I need to worry about this when I drywall? When finished you will see a noticeable difference in the space between the bottom of the door/wall and the top of the door/wall.

What are my options here?

http://i35.tinypic.com/ri9ich.jpg

Willie T 10-08-2009 09:56 AM

2-1/2" out of plumb is a lot. Although, visually, you can hide a lot of it, may I suggest that you set about finding out WHY this wall is out so much? There COULD be a structural problem going on there.

bparise 10-08-2009 10:21 AM

The house is just under 2 years old and I will have the builder come out and inspect it for structural problems.

It doesn't seem to be any failure structurally. It seems to me (my VERY unprofessional opinion) that they simply didn't check the wall for plumb when they lifted the wall in place or...

You can see in the picture there is a 2x6 top plate to where the 2x4 studs are not plumb. At the floor they lay on the RIGHT of the 2x6 but when they connect to the top plate, they are on the LEFT side. The Board that is 'PLUMB' in that image is correct and you can see where it is nailed to the top plate how it sits on the RIGHT side of the 2x6.

And, the 2x6 top plate IS plumb.

http://i35.tinypic.com/t6xxmr.jpg

bparise 10-08-2009 10:25 AM

I initially thought about just shoring up each stud with another one to make it plumb (and have it sit on the right side of the 2x6) but there is a window on that wall that would make that impossible...

12penny 10-08-2009 11:14 AM

bp...first off they did a pretty crappy job and should be called on it. Before I did anything, I'd try to get them to fix it. Its 2 years ago but they made a mistake and it should be fixed.

If that doesnt work, then yes, run new gable studs next to the old ones. You may have to do some "finagaling" with extension jambs around the window because its not plumb and the wall will be.

Let us know what the builder says.

jogr 10-08-2009 11:42 AM

It'd be very expensive to correct that wall by resetting it plumb now so I'm sure the builder won't go there. The only options I see are either:
1) accept it as it is
2) shim out the wall as has been suggested and hide the window edges with curtains cause they will look bad
3) move the closet door another foot or so from the wall to reduce the visual impact.

Number 3 would be my choice.

Gary in WA 10-08-2009 11:54 AM

Yes, the framers were in a hurry. " I initially thought about just shoring up each stud with another one to make it plumb (and have it sit on the right side of the 2x6) but there is a window on that wall that would make that impossible... " ---- I would do this as you would notice it more at the door than in the window jambs thickness. See if you can get some money towards your labor cost to furr the wall plumb.
You may want to fix the insulation to staple tabs flat on the edge not face of studs to get your money's worth: http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...99/991110.html Notice the two ways to insulate your rake (slope) ceiling in the article under "Ventilation for slopes in side attics". http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...95/950309.html That's good you used baffles there to keep the air movement out of the insulation otherwise negating the insulation completely.
Be safe, Gary

bparise 10-08-2009 12:20 PM

I'm chalking it up to lazy framers.

Calling the builders is useless we can't even get them out to fix nail pops in the drywall. We did purchase an extended warranty (the builder had a 1 year warranty) that expires November 1st but it only covers "Structural Defects" which are defined as failures to load bearing components (nothing is failing, its just not plumb). Plus there is a non-refundable $250 investigation fee to report defects releated to structure claims *sigh*...

I can't move the closet over anymore due to space limitations with a shower stall.

So, pretty much i think i'm going to shim out the wall. Also, the 2.5" difference is from floor to height of door (81.5") so I am hoping the difference from the window sill to the top of the window is < 2" which (IMO) wouldn't be TOO noticeable (especially with blinds/curtains). This way the wall won't look like its "leaning out".

The only thing I'm worried about is around the window framing. I will probably have to rip some long angle pieces for the header and jackstuds so the drywall doesn't have hollow space behind it.

Man, what a pain in the a**! The next house we build I'm taking a level and square to each wall / corner. This was our first house and boy, do i now know what to look for!

Willie T 10-08-2009 12:32 PM

Even though I had some very good framing crews through the years, I walked every foot of every house with a level... and I also rechecked their floor layouts, door sizes, windows, etc.

bparise 10-08-2009 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie T (Post 337949)
Even though I had some very good framing crews through the years, I walked every foot of every house with a level... and I also rechecked their floor layouts, door sizes, windows, etc.

If we build another house (which I think we will) I'm going to be all over them about stuff like this. As our first home we have 0 clue what to look for. Almost a year later we find extremely bowed walls, corners that are WAY off square, doors not hung correctly, baseboards not painted (just primed in places), etc...

Gotta learn somehow :)

bparise 10-08-2009 03:43 PM

So after much thought, measuring and hair pulling i decided to shim out the wall. I will post pics when I'm finished.

Thank you SO much for your help!


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