Cracking at the Metal Bead on Drywall Corners

smata67

Patched with lightweight mud, but doesn't seem to work, getting a few nail pops too. Is there something out there that is spreadable, yet flexible to address this?

DannyT

i would guess it wasn't attatched properly to start with. all the corner bead in the house we bought was nailed every 18 inches when i pulled it off. they were so consistant that i could measure and find the nails. dig out some compound along the edges and nail it every 6 inches and then remud it. we always used hot mud as the first coat on cornerbead.

scottktmrider

The bead needs to be nailed or screwed and taped.I use mesh tape because its easier to bed on the corner bead its the only place i use mesh.

woodworkbykirk

metal bead needs to be crimped in place and reinforced with screws.. you have to use bond first which gives it strenght.. mud just evens things out

for plastic bead it needs to be glued and stapled.. adding fiber tape makes it even stronger

Gary in WA

The lightweight mud was drying-type rather than setting type?

The nail pops are from your work, or previously?

Replacing a section; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAxNL...feature=relmfu

Replacing with paper edged for no nail pops; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sADen...5A3C038ED44C38

Gary

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federer

you have a link for everything! we need a way to compile all your posts!

ToolSeeker

Yea but him and Kirk are right and yes do use hot mud (setting type ) for first and even 2nd coat then you can top with the lite weight. One of you problems was the lite weight the "lighter" the mud the less strength it has. That is why when you get to things like lite , ultra lite, and topping you shouldn't use any of these to fill or tape. What they are basically for is your finish coat, they are lite so they will fill small imperfections easily, and they are easy to sand. Now back to the OP corner bead is a place where you need max. strength because it is always getting bumped or hit, or if it is on a window opening think of what happens when you open that window time after time after time. And a lot of hangers still use nails in bead because nail heads are a lot easier to cover than screw heads. Hope this helps.

Gary in WA

"you have a link for everything! we need a way to compile all your posts!" ----- then what would I do? lol. half the fun is solving the problem then giving the correct fix...

TS, here I something I found about "lightweight" mud, very interesting, thought I'd share it with you. I was surprised USG says it has the strength/bond for first coat taping; pp.4, #6, 7: http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-a...de-en-J371.pdf

Hence, why I asked if it was drying or setting type, probably the drying...http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-a...on-en-J515.pdf

Setting type of "lightweight" -- they weigh 1/4 less and low shrinkage; http://www.usg.com/sheetrock-easy-sa...tab-literature

http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-a...s-en-J1781.pdf

Gary
PS. page 15; http://www.usg.com/rc/system-catalog...s-en-SA927.pdf

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ToolSeeker

You are correct I find that very interesting. If lightweight has all the same properties a A/P why bother making the all purpose and who would use it. On that line of thought why does USG make a taping mud.
My experience is this I used to work for a man who actually used #3 for every thing and we got a lot of call backs for cracking. Called USG and they told use to only use it for second and 3rd coat because of it's strength. Go figure. But the funny part when we did what they told us we got fewer call backs.

drywallfinisher

GBR do you have any links and /or thoughts on crown staples used as fasteners for metal bead? I use them on projects that have numerous beads
example, an American Eagle I finished 10 months ago

a couple pics from that project...diyer may consider this as an option, crown staples
the last pic is that tape on bead and a vinyl radius over metal studs and a metal prefab radius the architect insisted upon

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Gary in WA

Nice work! I am not doing major drywall installs/finishing, but do a lot of repairs/texture matches. Love the tape-on corner bead as you never need to worry about future bead-lines showing from framing structural movement.http://www.usg.com/rc/brochures/shee...e-en-J1996.pdf

On the corner bead/application, I only have the basics. Try a search at the end after answering "yes" to giving feedback, chat live for specific questions; http://www.usg.com/search-results.ht...al+corner+bead

Found a lot of good DIY tips from that site, eg. http://www.usg.com/rc/white-papers/p...-en-WB2625.pdf

Gary

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