Correcting larger joint gaps due to misaligned boards

shelzmike

Okay, so I am exactly right in the middle of my first ever drywall job. I studied up for a good week (every day), watched loads of videos and while it is taking me longer than I had anticipated, I think it is going pretty good, save one issue which I will get to in a minute.

I was initially going to hang 1/4" over existing 1/2" drywall with textured plaster on it. However, I got a fantastic deal on 1/2" so I am useing that instead. So yeah I have 1" of drywall that will be on my wall. Oh well, it works.

So after I got around two windows which was a huge painwe were on somewhat of a roll, except for the fact that I am learning that not only are the studs not stndard width apart (and seemingly in no sort of logical order either) and are not fully plumb from top to bottom.

So I have my 13 year old son helping me hang. Hes doing okay, but is lacking a bit if strength needed to hold a board up high for long enough for me to get some tacks in. Howver, the first one he did really well. On the second upper board (hanging horizontal top to bottom) we got it set and I started tacking. It was not until a few minutes later that I realized he had let it drop from the ceiling about 5/8". At first I kept goin bc I didnt think it was a huge deal bc I am crown molding anyway.

So when hanging the corresponding lower piece next (which is actually staggered so that the butt joints are also staggered), the only way I could get it on the wall was to leave a very bthin triangle shape gap on the butt joint. It is flush at the top of the bottom board, but at the bottom it comes out and has a gap of about, you guessed it, 5/8".

So here is where I am assuming applying this over top of existing wall is beneficial. Since I have that backing can I just fill the larger cracks with hot mud and sand them smooth and flush before I tape? I am using mesh tape btw.

Now, question 2 since this is on a fairly large run of wall (24') and this is in the middle, I see the problem compounding the further I go unless I do something to correct now. Should I realign the next full board back to the ceiling, which would cause another triangle gap crack(albeit small) as well as the same on the recessed joint. Or should I just measure and flush them against the previous boards and hope the top gap doesnt get beyond the crown molding span (fairly certain it wont). Is it okay to have a sort of crooked recessed down the middle?

Thanks

Mike

coupe

if it were me, I'd take those two sheets down and start over. if not? every butt joint,corner joint, and horizontal joint is going to have to be cut to fit on angle. find the center of each stud and caulk a line mark it on ceiling and floor. you're going to need them to make sure butt joints land on studs. you could fill with mud and tape, use paper tape easier to work with! get the boy a drywall kicker to step on to raise sheets up tight or make one. it's faster and easier to work with straight and level sheets both hanging and finishing. if you leave as is? bottom sheets on 8 foot walls may have to be trimmed or forced in on low ends of top sheets.

also, with two 1/2" layers of drywall. you'll find your house harder to heat, I built a house in 1977, the drywall was bad, paper peeled off when painted. the manufacturer furnish drywall for another layer over entire house.walls,ceilings, even closets. with electric heat, I don't think you could get the whole house warm if you burnt it down!? you're gaining fire protection, but not much of anything else?

do what you like, it can be done and hidden. but it's your time and lots of it.

__________________
as always, just my thoughts
good luck....coupe/Larry
take what helps? ignore the rest.

shelzmike

I appreciate your advice. At this point I do not think I will remove the sheets and start over. I will just do the best I can.

Also, I am confused as to why more drywall would make the house harder to heat? Could you elaborate?

Mike

coupe

Mike, you are certainly entitled to do your project any way you see fit.

the time it'd take 20-30 minutes to remove and replace,the two misaligned sheets. would more than be made up for by hanging them right. allowing you to continue to cut and hang straight square sheets. all butt joints will have to be cut out of square to make them fit and hit your studs. you want all your joints to be aligned all the way around the room (s). you'll waste more time mixing hot mud to pack and fill those gaps,+ they're more likely to crack and fall out at that size!

as for why the house will be harder to heat, drywall has little to no insulation value. an inch of drywall takes a long time to absorb the heat. absorbs cold much faster. most anytime of the year, you can walk around your house touching the drywall, it will feel cooler than the room temperature in winter. unless it's covering a heating duct. drywall is simply too dense and pressed too tight to act as insulation. insulation is behind the drywall.

this is all just my own opinion, I could be totally wrong? you'll find out after you're done project

__________________
as always, just my thoughts
good luck....coupe/Larry
take what helps? ignore the rest.