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-   -   Butts or tapers first (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/butts-tapers-first-193015/)

Big44dog 12-31-2013 01:04 AM

Butts or tapers first
 
Hey all. Doing an addition on my home. Entire second floor. Hanging rock in a couple days and wondering when I get to taping do I tape the butt seams or the tapered seams first? Tape it all first and second/third coat over everything at once? Im a cement mason for a living so I'm no novice with a knife/trowel. Did 1 room downstairs but rushed it a bit to get the family back in the house after heavy construction was over. It came ok but I know I could do better. Looking for tips to save sanding and extra coats.

I did have a friend who suggested for inside corners 2nd and 3rd coat only one side at a time. Came nice at first and saved a lot of messing in the corner to get it flat but I noticed 1 corner in that room cracked a month later really think this is the cause. Would a bead of caulk before paint saved it?

oh'mike 12-31-2013 06:27 AM

I usually tape the whole job all at once---start with the tapers--then do the butts---

Using the correct mud for each phase helps avoid future failures----

Bag mix---Easy sand-20-45-90 minute setting---used to pack voids--fill corner bead--often used for the first fill coat . very hard to sand--

Multipurpose---green lid----contains glue---used to set paper--some use this for first fill coat---rather hard to sand---

Light weight---blue lid----topping compound---soft--easy to apply----very easy to sand---use this for the last and final coat----it is to soft to use for filling corner bead or setting paper-----

ToolSeeker 12-31-2013 08:07 AM

What Mike says. And the info your friend gave you is also correct, except for the first coat. For the first coat do both sides at once. And lord I hate to ask this but what tape are you using in the corners?

eandjsdad 12-31-2013 08:39 AM

As long as you're bedding both sides of the corner at the same time, it isn't the cause of cracking in corners. If you put the mud on too thick in a corner (either bed or coat), you can get cracking.

Things that will save sanding time:

1) bed coat only needs to be ~ 1/16" thick. The thicker you get it, the more sanding you'll do. If you get it too thin, you'll have the tape bubble - then you'll have to repair the bubbles.

2) detail your work as you go. You can fill in depressions on the next pass, but ridges and bumps have to be sanded - avoid these by detailing it as you go - wipe your edges.

3) lap marks are unavoidable, but they can be shaved with the knife held perpendicular to the surface. This is best done before full cure. If you shave with your knife before sanding you can save a lot of dust.

Big44dog 12-31-2013 01:52 PM

Always paper tape lol. And yes on the corners I did both sides while applying tape

Davejss 01-01-2014 12:16 PM

You drywall guys kill me! Go with blue board and skim coat plaster. You get a veneer over the entire wall, no sanding, no waiting a day between each of the three coats and when it's done it's virtually water proof.
Why do people drywall?

Nailbags 01-01-2014 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davejss (Post 1285596)
You drywall guys kill me! Go with blue board and skim coat plaster. You get a veneer over the entire wall, no sanding, no waiting a day between each of the three coats and when it's done it's virtually water proof.
Why do people drywall?

Because it is faster cheaper and easier and Plaster board cost more and your asking for three skim coats.

oh'mike 01-01-2014 04:46 PM

Honestly? I don't know how to plaster----

Nailbags 01-01-2014 07:04 PM

also Most GC's are not going to wait 30 days for the plaster skim coat to fully cure before you can even prime it.

Big44dog 01-01-2014 08:21 PM

30days? Insanity.

ToolSeeker 01-01-2014 10:03 PM

I haven't seen anybody use plaster except for repairs for 30 years.

Davejss 01-02-2014 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailbags (Post 1285793)
also Most GC's are not going to wait 30 days for the plaster skim coat to fully cure before you can even prime it.

We must be talking about different plaster techniques.
Around here skim coat plaster is the preferred method. Just a bit more expensive than drywall, but not enough to make much difference.
It's done in a day and ready for paint a few days later.
The last few drywall jobs we subbed-out were for large commercial jobs consisting of thousands of boards and drywall was specified by the architects. But all of our residential construction and remodeling has been skim coat.
We find it much quicker, much cleaner ( no sanding = no dust ), a much better finished product, ( a uniform skim coat over the entire wall, not just the seams ),
and a huge selling point to our clients who prefer what they consider to be an above average wall finish.
Let's look at a one room basement remodel. The drywall guy hangs his boards and gets his joints all taped in a day. Then he comes back a second day and does his second coat. Then he comes back a third day and puts on his third coat. He'll have to come back one more time to sand the whole job and maybe do just a bit of touch-up. And that's if it's been warm and dry enough for each coat to dry in a day. Then there's all the dust from sanding. So best case scenario the drywall guy isn't done for at least four days.
Now take the same room with plaster. The guy hangs the boards, tapes his seam and puts in his first coat. Then he has lunch, mixes his plaster and does his skim coat. Then he packs up and goes home. No waiting days to dry between coats, no sanding, and a uniform, smooth as glass finish that is much more moisture resistant than any version of drywall.


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