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-   -   Butt joints (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/butt-joints-148000/)

rightit 06-23-2012 01:12 PM

Butt joints
 
I'm hanging a wall in my house right with 5/8" (well, actually, the 3rd layer). I've hung the sheets horizontally for the top part of the wall and am about to hang the bottom.

The best apparent placement of the lower sheets leaves the two butt joints about 6" apart. Is this enough separation for floating or is more distance between the two required for optimal floating? These would be the only butt joints on the wall and are vertical.

Also, this 'optimal' placement means that the upper and lower 12' sheets will start from the same point. Does this present any issues? The two lower layers are staggered (12' and 8' upper, 8' and 12' lower).

Thanks!

joecaption 06-23-2012 01:28 PM

Why 3 layers?

CopperClad 06-23-2012 01:39 PM

You can float joint compound pretty much anywhere. But obviously your rocking a wall that has a pretty hefty fire rating. Townhouse? Apartment? 3 layers is hefty for any standard residential construction. I haven't done much in fire rating but as long as the joints are staggered you should meet code. But with that being said how are you staggering 6'' anyway? wall framed on 6'' on center? Think code might be staggered 1 foot. Don't quote me on that.

Nailbags 06-23-2012 01:48 PM

Three layers of 5/8 Drywall? Why? Is my question? Code for fire rating in a home for garage to living space is just 5/8. this is way over kill! But its your money.

rightit 06-23-2012 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 949662)
Why 3 layers?

Soundproofing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CopperClad (Post 949674)
You can float joint compound pretty much anywhere. But obviously your rocking a wall that has a pretty hefty fire rating. Townhouse? Apartment? 3 layers is hefty for any standard residential construction. I haven't done much in fire rating but as long as the joints are staggered you should meet code.

Sound is the main event. Fire rating is a bonus. It's an office that will be used for various purposes, some of which will require that no noise escape or enter.

Quote:

But with that being said how are you staggering 6'' anyway? wall framed on 6'' on center? Think code might be staggered 1 foot. Don't quote me on that.
The wall is 16" OC (staggered 2x4 wood stud wall, 16" OC each side). The 6" is backer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailbags (Post 949679)
Three layers of 5/8 Drywall? Why? Is my question? Code for fire rating in a home for garage to living space is just 5/8. this is way over kill! But its your money.

See above.

Thanks to all for your comments. I've found that I have an extra 12x8 sheet, so I may just resolve the issue by placing two 10' (give or take) sheets.

Nailbags 06-23-2012 11:59 PM

If you wanted Sound Proofing I would have used rockwool batts and just one sheet of 5/8's would have saved you a ton of money!

CopperClad 06-24-2012 12:03 AM

Seriously.. Soundproofing never even entered my mind.. Tons of better ways of doing it. Even the green fiber cellulose insulation offers tremendous soundproofing..

Nailbags 06-24-2012 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CopperClad (Post 950053)
Seriously.. Soundproofing never even entered my mind.. Tons of better ways of doing it. Even the green fiber cellulose insulation offers tremendous soundproofing..

Yeah Copper,
My son is a drummer and I put rock wool batts in the stud cavities and then 1/2 inch dry wall almost zero sound.

rightit 06-24-2012 02:26 PM

Thanks for the comments, guys. If you research soundproofing, you'll find it's a bit more complex than insulating wall cavities (which only stops certain frequencies of sound, and not very well in most cases).

Sound is like water. It will find any "leaks" and get through. For instance, if you've built a wall to a 60 STC rating according to the accepted soundproofing strategies, but leave out putty pads at the outlets, your sound rating just dropped significantly. In fact, you may not have improved sound dampening at all, just by forgetting one item.

Insulation is just one ingredient in the mix. Mass is your best friend when "soundproofing". My wall is as described below:

Existing wall, gutted on one side, mechanically decoupled staggered wall, mineral wool insulation (touching only one set of studs), 3 layers of 5/8 fire rock (on each side of wall), seams staggered, green glue in between each layer, acoustic sound sealant at every sheetrock seam on the lower layers, around outlets (outlets also employ putty pads), in corners, at and on bottom plate from floor to bottom edge of sheetrock. There will also be a solid core door with a door sweep. Adjacent intersecting walls are also double rocked with GG.

There are many factors when soundproofing, and it can be quite a difficult (& expensive) process, as sound can find ways to flank all of your hard work. Sometimes it's structural flanking paths that can be difficult or impossible to correct.

I only wish that all it took was Rockwool in the cavities. But soundproofing is a science that incorporates lots of factors. If you're really interested in finding out more, here are some links:

Google search - soundproofing & walls

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_nf=1...w=1579&bih=953


Soundproofing company: Some great articles and principals of soundproofing:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...fing-articles/


And one more...AVS forum, a neutral community into soundproofing for the purposes of home theaters:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/19/dedicat...n-construction

CopperClad 06-24-2012 02:44 PM

Lol ! Sounds you most definitely are more knowledgeable in the area of soundproofing then I. Sounds like you didn't need any help at all ! Very curious though, what is being done in this office?? Is it top secret :)

Nailbags 06-24-2012 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightit (Post 950451)
Thanks for the comments, guys. If you research soundproofing, you'll find it's a bit more complex than insulating wall cavities (which only stops certain frequencies of sound, and not very well in most cases).

Sound is like water. It will find any "leaks" and get through. For instance, if you've built a wall to a 60 STC rating according to the accepted soundproofing strategies, but leave out putty pads at the outlets, your sound rating just dropped significantly. In fact, you may not have improved sound dampening at all, just by forgetting one item.

Insulation is just one ingredient in the mix. Mass is your best friend when "soundproofing". My wall is as described below:

Existing wall, gutted on one side, mechanically decoupled staggered wall, mineral wool insulation (touching only one set of studs), 3 layers of 5/8 fire rock (on each side of wall), seams staggered, green glue in between each layer, acoustic sound sealant at every sheetrock seam on the lower layers, around outlets (outlets also employ putty pads), in corners, at and on bottom plate from floor to bottom edge of sheetrock. There will also be a solid core door with a door sweep. Adjacent intersecting walls are also double rocked with GG.

There are many factors when soundproofing, and it can be quite a difficult (& expensive) process, as sound can find ways to flank all of your hard work. Sometimes it's structural flanking paths that can be difficult or impossible to correct.

I only wish that all it took was Rockwool in the cavities. But soundproofing is a science that incorporates lots of factors. If you're really interested in finding out more, here are some links:

Google search - soundproofing & walls

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_nf=1...w=1579&bih=953


Soundproofing company: Some great articles and principals of soundproofing:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...fing-articles/


And one more...AVS forum, a neutral community into soundproofing for the purposes of home theaters:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/19/dedicat...n-construction

Hey Thanks for the information.

Nailbags 06-25-2012 06:15 PM

Hey I just found some real cool sound proofing drywall. and I bet it is better then three layers of 5/8.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlAZs...feature=g-vrec

rightit 06-25-2012 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nailbags (Post 951483)
Hey I just found some real cool sound proofing drywall.


Thanks for the heads up. I saw that in the course of researching the issue. I researched both methods thoroughly. Each camp swears by their 'method'.

I suppose QR could be as good or better, certainly easier than hanging 6 layers. But the net is filled with conflicting opinions. My logic was that, QR, being manufactured with a special layer in between, was subject to human error, while it's hard to screw up mass. As you can surmise from this thread, I invested myself in mass. I doubt there will be enough difference to make me regret it. The price worked out to about the same, counting GG and sound sealant.

Thank you for taking the time to bring this to my attention.


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