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-   -   Best way to seal gap in drywall around recessed lighting trim (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/best-way-seal-gap-drywall-around-recessed-lighting-trim-182064/)

TangledUp 06-18-2013 02:50 PM

Best way to seal gap in drywall around recessed lighting trim
 
Hi All,

I have a recessed can that has a gap in one area that is bigger then the trim. Can anyone recommend what I should use to fill in this gap? I assume it should be non-flammable as it may touch the can itself, but that's about all I know. Please see the attached picture for what the gap looks like.

http://imageshack.us/f/28/bk0g.jpg/http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/bk0g.jpg/

I am not a do it yourself by nature, but want to tackle this on my own. Would caulk be the right product to fill in the gap? Would I remove the trim first before caulking or just leave the trim in place and fill in that gap?

Thanks

Adam

joecaption 06-18-2013 08:29 PM

The right way would be to cut a square section of that drywall and fill it in with a patch and this time drill it out with the right sized hole saw this time.
But you could use hot mud to try and fill in the gap. Going to have to remove the trim ring first.

CENTERLINE MV 06-18-2013 08:34 PM

Agreed. Hot mud or joint compound if you're not comfortable with mixing. Looks small enough where you don't need tape.

TangledUp 06-18-2013 08:39 PM

When you say hot mud, what do you mean?

For joint compound would I use one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/10102-Wallboar...joint+compound
http://www.amazon.com/12374-CrackSho...joint+compound

As you can see I am clueless with this stuff, but willing to learn!

djlandkpl 06-18-2013 08:44 PM

Hot mud is drywall compound that must be mixed with water. It hardens by a chemical reaction which is why it must be mixed with water before it is used. It comes in various setting times ranging from 5 minutes to 90 minutes.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SHEETROCK...0#.UcD-m5zNnGA

You could use premixed joint compound. You'll have to wait at least 24 hours for it to get good and hard.

CENTERLINE MV 06-18-2013 08:59 PM

http://www.amazon.com/USG-Corporatio.../dp/B008XKW06G

TangledUp 06-18-2013 09:41 PM

Thanks for all the info. I think it would be safer/easier for me to just use the joint compound. This stuff is safe to sit against the hihat container, which may get hot?

CitadelBlue 06-18-2013 09:47 PM

Take the trim ring off and apply several layers of joint compound (a little at a time) several times, several hours apart and a little at a time ...

Did I mention " a little at a time .....

CENTERLINE MV 06-18-2013 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TangledUp (Post 1203647)
Thanks for all the info. I think it would be safer/easier for me to just use the joint compound. This stuff is safe to sit against the hihat container, which may get hot?

Yes, it'll be fine. JC is not combustible. As advised above, take trim ring off and apply several small coats rather than fewer heavy coats. Make sure each coat dries completely before applying the next or it'll crack. Sand lightly between coats if necessary.

gregzoll 06-18-2013 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TangledUp (Post 1203647)
Thanks for all the info. I think it would be safer/easier for me to just use the joint compound. This stuff is safe to sit against the hihat container, which may get hot?

What do you think is in between the paper. Same stuff is what comes in the dry mix, but also has more Plaster of Paris in it. If those fixtures get too hot, there is actually a sensor inside them that shuts them off at a set temp.

TangledUp 06-19-2013 08:53 AM

Thanks for the information everyone!


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