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Old 02-25-2011, 09:31 AM   #16
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Best way to finish ceiling drywall by an amateur?


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Just keep in mind that power sanders make it awfully easy to go overboard and sand much of the paper surface of the drywall. Even with priming, these fuzzy areas are hard to cover to the same surface hardness and 'feel' as unsanded drywall. Point is it paints differently when sanded if you don't do a fair bit of repair finishing. If you are spraying, not that big of a deal.
The drywall vacuum sander isn't a power sander. It just hooks up to the shop vac to take away the dust. I know what you mean about taking too much off! I did that once and ended up putting more compound on it ... basically starting over.

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Old 02-25-2011, 09:37 AM   #17
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The drywall vacuum sander isn't a power sander. It just hooks up to the shop vac to take away the dust. I know what you mean about taking too much off! I did that once and ended up putting more compound on it ... basically starting over.
Did you know that the reason you often see all three or four of the screw holes covered in one long stripe of drywall mud is for that very reason? Individual screws are hard to cover and sand without scuffing up the paper around each screw. The long stripe makes sanding so much easier in that you just keep inside the perimiter of the long stripe. Neat, huh?
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:53 AM   #18
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Best way to finish ceiling drywall by an amateur?


I wish I could do that in my house, but it's so strange I have to do each one individually! The other thing about the one long stripe is that it's so much easier to make it disappear. WISH I could!
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:38 AM   #19
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I've used the powers sander--Porter Cable--There is a small learning curve,but not bad.

When you first try it use a fine grit paper to reduce the likely hood of over sanding.
After you get a feel for the machine-go to a more aggressive paper.

Sure cuts down on the dust---much flatter than hand sanding,too.

Use a sanding sponge on corners--a strong directional light will help find missed spots,

Count on some touch ups after priming.---Mike---
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:38 AM   #20
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I've used the powers sander--Porter Cable--There is a small learning curve,but not bad.

When you first try it use a fine grit paper to reduce the likely hood of over sanding.
After you get a feel for the machine-go to a more aggressive paper.

Sure cuts down on the dust---much flatter than hand sanding,too.

Use a sanding sponge on corners--a strong directional light will help find missed spots,

Count on some touch ups after priming.---Mike---
So very true! And it seems to be something that it is almost impossible to get across to kids coming up in the trades today. I guess the "instant gratification" generation expects to have to only take one swipe at something and that should be it.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:41 AM   #21
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This isn't a power sander. It's a hand sander that's hooked up to a shop vac that's hooked up to a 5-gallon bucket half-full of water to cut down on the dust. Looks like this:

I've used this type before, and this one I just got from Freecycle! Sure, I'd rather have a power sander, but this will do in a pinch.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:02 AM   #22
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Don't you just LOVE Freecycle!?!?
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:40 AM   #23
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Don't you just LOVE Freecycle!?!?
Yes, yes, yes!! I also love our landfill. My favorite place to shop! We got enough Sheetrock there to redo our living room. The only problem was the corners were dinged, but that was such an easy fix that I had to do it. Plus we got our storm windows, lumber, fencing, sink, shower stall (new)
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:48 PM   #24
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We understand you have no money to hire this out.... as you said it twice. I suggest watching some "texturing" videos on "You tube" and reading about it.
I seldom use my vac sander, usually knock the high ridges off before they set up with a blade. Last coat I sometimes sand, mostly a wet sponge or mason's float (or tile setters) in a dust-free setting. Very minimal.
The smaller hand-held hoppers work just fine, even the mini from Harbor Freight, though it takes a lot longer for big areas. I've used a mini with a two h.p compressor for a smaller bedroom 4 different times, they are great for touch-up- better than the canned texture- and cheaper...
This will get you started on the basics, click on the titles with “Preview” in the title; http://www.google.com/search?tbm=bks...G=Search+Books

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Old 02-27-2011, 07:23 PM   #25
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Best way to finish ceiling drywall by an amateur?


Those hoppers could also be used for an orange peel texture on walls, I imagine. The ceiling is coming out fairly well, and I love the look of old-style orange peel texture on the walls.

In my little castle's addition, the folks didn't even bother smoothing or sanding the finish on the joints, just painted right over, so now there are blade marks all over. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix it!
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:33 PM   #26
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In my little castle's addition, the folks didn't even bother smoothing or sanding the finish on the joints, just painted right over, so now there are blade marks all over. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix it!
Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it. ...

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Old 02-27-2011, 10:51 PM   #27
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Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it. ...

-Paul
Hey, if you like the work so much, c'mon up to northern Minnesota, where it'll be dropping down to 20-25 below zero! That oughta freeze your smile on your face!
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:03 AM   #28
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Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it. ...

-Paul

Yeah or skim coat over the wall and sand that.

You can always buy a stucco brush and throw the mud on the ceiling that way for a knockdown and let it sit for a bit, then flatten it out. I never advise doing this stuff though in -20 degree weather. the mud doesnt dry right.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:23 AM   #29
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i never advise doing this stuff though in -20 degree weather. The mud doesnt dry right.
lmao!!
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:39 PM   #30
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Texture is fine, you might want to get it done by a pro, will cost a bit but they will be in and out and will do a nice job, you don't know what the results will be if you've never done it yourself and are going to attempt it. You might save money if you move all furniture yourself and cover everything up and put up poly for them.

On the other hand, if someone has gone through the trouble of 3 coats of mud for a nicely finished flat ceiling, it really should not be a lot of effort to sand it.

If the mudding was done properly the sanding should not be excessive, very minimal if someone skilled did it. As mentioned above bigger bits can be knocked off, sand out the rest.

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