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-   -   Best Way to Fill Gap At Bottom? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/best-way-fill-gap-bottom-182093/)

ddawg16 06-18-2013 11:49 PM

Best Way to Fill Gap At Bottom?
 
I have one of those 'older' houses where the ceiling is actually more than 8' high....more like 98.5". Hence, two layers of drywall on the wall leaves me a 2" gap at the bottom.

The existing house had a 3/4" strip of wood 1" thick nailed to the bottom. They then nailed strips of 1/2" gypsum board to the studs...and then covered that with hand applied plaster.

Well....I'm not doing the hand plaster method......

I'm pretty sure I know the answer...but I thought it best to get the input of the 'experts'.

My thinking is to take a 2/4 and rip some 1/2' thick strips and nail those to the bottom. They will obviously be covered by base board.

Am I on the right track?

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e3...ps93adac6d.jpg

princelake 06-19-2013 06:01 AM

i normally put 1/2" plywood but i dont see why ripping 2x4 wouldnt work. the only issue i see is the 1/2" piece of 2x4 might crack when you try and screw it. if thats all you have kicking around then go for it.

joecaption 06-19-2013 09:37 AM

Got some left over sheetrock, you could even use that.
Ripping 2 X 4's sounds like to much work to me.
All you need is any form of shim to keep the trim from kicking in at the bottom.
Plywood, OSB, sheetrock will all work.
PS, really do not need that second rows of screws in the king stud. If you just screw it to the jacks the trim will cover it up and be less finishing.

ddawg16 06-19-2013 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1203879)
Got some left over sheetrock, you could even use that.
Ripping 2 X 4's sounds like to much work to me.
All you need is any form of shim to keep the trim from kicking in at the bottom.
Plywood, OSB, sheetrock will all work.
PS, really do not need that second rows of screws in the king stud. If you just screw it to the jacks the trim will cover it up and be less finishing.

Yea....I know......but I only put about 2-3 screws in....I've been seeing a lot of the door way studs starting to separate a little....I'm actually giving them a couple of smacks with the hammer before I put in the screws in to make sure it's all tight. It's my OCD kicking in.

funfool 06-19-2013 01:07 PM

I would install the drywall horizontal. Top first, then the bottom and fill in the center with the strip.
8'3" walls are very common here, is how I deal with it, going to have a mud joint there anyways,

ddawg16 06-19-2013 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funfool (Post 1203952)
I would install the drywall horizontal. Top first, then the bottom and fill in the center with the strip.
8'3" walls are very common here, is how I deal with it, going to have a mud joint there anyways,

I thought about that....but, I was able to cover that section of wall with one 4x8 sheet....not seams to fill....

In the actual picture your seeing the wall next to the washing machine....once the walls are done, I'll be putting down a layer of 1/4 Hardibacker...then tile on top of that...so the actual floor level is going to come up 1/2-3/4"....and because this is laundry....it's going to have that real attractive rubber base molding...so any seams are going to be hidden.

princelake 06-19-2013 05:04 PM

i'd wait till after you install the floor and then rip whatever you desire to fill the gap so you can glue your base on

Gary in WA 06-19-2013 05:15 PM

If an exterior wall, tape the joints to air-seal from convective loops degrading the insulation. As per code on a attic knee wall; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par021.htm

As drywall is your air-barrier in the thermal envelope; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...002_par022.htm

Gary

jeffnc 06-19-2013 09:22 PM

I would simply put drywall strips down there, and then baseboard will cover the seam. Ripping 2x4s is way overkill.

Willie T 06-20-2013 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1203955)
I thought about that....but, I was able to cover that section of wall with one 4x8 sheet....not seams to fill....

In the actual picture your seeing the wall next to the washing machine....once the walls are done, I'll be putting down a layer of 1/4 Hardibacker...then tile on top of that...so the actual floor level is going to come up 1/2-3/4"....and because this is laundry....it's going to have that real attractive rubber base molding...so any seams are going to be hidden.

Explain to me, again, why it's ok for a laundry room to look like crap with vinyl base instead of following the theme of the rest of the house...

ddawg16 06-20-2013 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie T (Post 1204354)
Explain to me, again, why it's ok for a laundry room to look like crap with vinyl base instead of following the theme of the rest of the house...

Because it's a laundry room?

We are not locked into doing the vinyl base...yet...my concern is that if we have a water leak, I don't want water getting under the base of the walls.

I am totally open to suggestions.....

In fact, one option we are sort of kicking around is using the vinyl bead board about half way up the wall....

Once again...I'm open to ideas.......

You have to remember that having a laundry room is sort of new to us....up till now, those machines have been in the kitchen.

Yep....we be moving up in style.....

jeffnc 06-20-2013 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddawg16 (Post 1204400)
Because it's a laundry room?

I don't get it either. I'd keep the house trim consistent.


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