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Old 03-11-2016, 04:38 PM   #1
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Basement drywall questions


A few questions about drywall for my basement finishing project:

1) Is it cheaper installing drywall myself and hiring out the taping plaster? Or is it true that drywall contractors get drywall much cheaper than I could at the Home Depot?

2) Is mold resistant drywall a good idea for below-grade installations? Even for the ceiling?

3) All the audio guys seem to think that 5/8 drywall is needed for sound deadening. I'd like to keep as much noise down in the "man cave" as possible.

Do I need 5/8 for walls and ceiling? Or just 5/8 for ceiling?

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Old 03-11-2016, 06:38 PM   #2
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There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam,
Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
Truly want sound want sound proofing just using thicker sheet rock not going to do much.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...oof-a-ceiling/

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Old 03-11-2016, 06:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam,
Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
Truly want sound want sound proofing just using thicker sheet rock not going to do much.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...oof-a-ceiling/
Were going with just spray foam directly to the concrete.
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Old 03-12-2016, 07:50 AM   #4
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Re: Basement drywall questions


Most dry wallers prefer to hang their own. They can eliminate taping problems as they go. As for price there is not much difference in a few sheets, if doing a whole house and they purchase a couple hundred sheets then they get a break.

I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:32 PM   #5
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Re: Basement drywall questions


I did 2" foam board on my foundation walls and then rolled R-13 insulation between all studs that I did myself. I then hired a pro to do the walls and ceiling , tape, mud and supplies. The price was definitely right and it'll come out far better and in a much faster time frame than I could achieve.




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Old 03-12-2016, 09:33 PM   #6
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Re: Basement drywall questions




Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow.


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Old 03-13-2016, 06:45 AM   #7
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Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow.


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Would you mine me asking what kind of drywall you went with? How large is your basement, and how much was the project? I started getting a few quotes and they range from $4000 to $8000
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:06 PM   #8
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Re: Basement drywall questions


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I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.
What would a home owner do to make the drywall so bad you had to rip it out, I may learn a thing or two about how not to hang drywall.
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Old 03-14-2016, 08:16 AM   #9
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Re: Basement drywall questions


The biggest problem was trying to save pieces. This created many butt joints. Leaving too big a gap, and the cut outs for plugs and switches were cut wrong then the hole was too big or in the wrong place. Seams in the wrong place like the corner of a door or window where it is very likely to crack.
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:00 PM   #10
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Re: Basement drywall questions


Toolseeker, I've also seen drywall hung and NOT NAILED TO ANY STUDS AT THE END OF THE PIECE. If the 8 footer ended up a foot shy of the next stud, they just left it like that and installed the next piece right next to it!!! One lean on the wall...........
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:16 PM   #11
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I'm starting to reconsider doing this myself: if the only problem is the idiot installers, then I think I can handle the job myself.

I think my biggest concern would be making sure I get the joints all correct.
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Old 03-15-2016, 07:33 AM   #12
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Re: Basement drywall questions


Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:00 AM   #13
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Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.
I'll have to look the book up. Does it have lots of pictures? (Hey, don't judge!)

I've been watching you tube videos, but certainly having a hard time with picking out the pros, vs the wannabes. I'm really having a hard time figuring out the hanging of drywall over outlets: some say to hang the corners and use a rotozip (which looks a lot cleaner) and others use some crazy tricks, like lipsticking the box then cutting then hanging...
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:44 AM   #14
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Re: Basement drywall questions


I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.

Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
How to fireblock framing

It's basically a way to help suppress any fires that may ignite behind the drywall and hopefully prevent it from spreading upstairs.
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:52 PM   #15
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I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.

Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
How to fireblock framing

It's basically a way to help suppress any fires that may ignite behind the drywall and hopefully prevent it from spreading upstairs.
Now I heard 5/8 makes for much more difficult door installations? Plus it's not stocked by the local big box stores (at least mold resistant versions)

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