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Old 12-17-2011, 02:28 PM   #1
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Basement Ceiling


Hello,

I am wanting to finish (drywall) my ceiling in the basement but have a rather weird issue. I am realizing that this is probably not code today nor was it back 12 years ago when my house was built.

I have attached a picture and it seems that the second floor on each end has been shimmed using furring/strapping. No issues have occured from this in the 12 years the house has been standing thankfully, however, is my only option now to continue furring the entire ceiling to make it level? or do you think I can remove the strapping that is shown and install the drywall flush to the joists? If I must do the furring, does it have to be on 16" spacing?



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Last edited by kbsctt; 12-17-2011 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:30 PM   #2
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No expert here, but I did a basement ceiling once attached right to the joists..came out terrible. The joists tend to have a lot of little bumps and hills. Better to do strapping, I found.

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Old 12-17-2011, 04:53 PM   #3
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I don't know what those 1x's are for. Those are called TJI's. They are very uniform. Take those 2 boards down and commence sheetrocking.
(the only thing they are missing is "x-bracing" between the joists, which keeps them from rolling.
Is that a wood wall those boards are nailed to? Maybe the builder thought that would hold the wall straight.
Please let me know if that is the case; I'll tell you how to fix that situation
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Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:33 PM   #4
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Hello,

Yes they are nailed to a wood wall and wedged between the cement foundation and the floor above. There are 6 in total on each side of my basement. There are none on the back and front of the house.

Are you sure it's ok to remove them? They wouldn't be bearing any weight with the way they are leveraged to the 2nd joist?

I would love to remove them as it would make my project easier, however, want to make sure it's ok.

Thanks.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:44 PM   #5
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Every 2 get, put 2x anything blocks between the joists, flush with the bottom of the joists and out of the way of the sheetrock.
These are what you need to nail the walls to.
In the picture, it looks like the wall is shorter than the bottom of the joists, in which case you need to put some other blocks to fill the gap between the top of the wall and the bottom of your new blocks.
You will be left with the wall being tied in to the joists and backing every 2' for sheetrock nailers against the walls, with nothing in the way of the ceiling sheetrock.

Does this make sense to you?

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Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:51 PM   #6
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I think I do.

Are you saying to get some 2x4 and wedge it between the joist and wall out of the way of where the sheet rock will go and where the 1x3 is currently propping up the joist?

Then I can go ahead and remove the 1x3 and attach my ceiling flush to the joists?
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:51 PM   #7
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Looks like someone install the ceiling Before the wall sheetrock went up.
It always needs to be the ceiling first, then the wall sheetrock goes up tight up againt the ceiling sheetrock that's why there's a gap. The sheetrock never is installed tight to the floor, the baseboard covers up the gap.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:53 PM   #8
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Nevermind, re-read what you wrote. You are suggesting I cross-brace the joists.

I would need to do that to every 2nd joist? How many pieces of 2x4 on each joist? Just 1 between each pair towards the mididle?
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:01 PM   #9
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I edited my picture as it seems my question may be confusing.

I am wondering if and how I can safely remove these 1x3's as if I don't my ceiling won't be level without strapping the entire ceiling which I wasn't planning on doing.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsctt
I think I do.

Are you saying to get some 2x4 and wedge it between the joist and wall out of the way of where the sheet rock will go and where the 1x3 is currently propping up the joist?

Then I can go ahead and remove the 1x3 and attach my ceiling flush to the joists?
The 1x3's aren't holding up the joists. They are keeping the wall straight.
Except instead of 1x3 being nailed to the bottom of the joists, 2x4 or 6 should be nailed BETWEEN the joists.
Let me ask you another question. How close is the last joist to the opposite wall?

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Old 12-17-2011, 06:13 PM   #11
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I understood your question, but thanx for clarification. Did you get my question about the other wall?

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Old 12-17-2011, 06:36 PM   #12
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Thanks Titanoman, I knew you knew what I meant.

The joist is pretty much the exact same spacing away on the opposite wall as well
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbsctt View Post
Thanks Titanoman, I knew you knew what I meant.

The joist is pretty much the exact same spacing away on the opposite wall as well
You could place the blocks every 6' or so as the drywall can carry 6" without a nailer, therefore not needing them every 2'. But if you are going to put up crown molding, because you will need something to cover the gap because of the wall being short, you need the blocks to nail the crown to, ergo every 2'.
Also, this place is 20 years old. The walls are done moving.
And, the wall should be tied in to the outside rim.
The blocks are going to be hard to put in. You need to pull out that insulation, because that is where the blocks need to go.
I drew a real crude picture, took a picture of it and will try to post it. (I've never tried to post a picture on this forum before. I'm not sure I know how, as i'm a carpenter, not a smart phone techie.
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:02 PM   #14
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Whoa. This is weird. I had to download a thing called "imgur for Android" (I do all my postings from my phone. The ex got the computer).

Can you see a real crude drawing? I would have spent more time on it if I would have known I was going to figure out how to post it. http://www.imgur.com/LmEKX.jpg


Last edited by titanoman; 12-17-2011 at 08:40 PM.
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