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Old 06-01-2010, 09:13 AM   #1
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Anyone wanna take a stab at some Blueboard questions?

Getting ready to do some blueboarding on second floor remodel and have some questions if someone wants to take a stab at these questions I am preparing ahead of time for.

1) What is the best way to measure to make sure I have the right amount of sheets? Should I measure the length and width of all the walls and ceilings and then divide them by the area of the board and add some for extra? Or do I take into consideration how they will be laid. I am having it delieved and want to make sure I get enough, but not too much. Just do the full walls and not consider windows and doors?

2) When hanging the board is it easier to go over the windows and recesses's and cut them out after or measure and pre-cut holes/openings?

3) What is the maximum spacing that a sheet can expand between studs/rafters? I have 16" OC walls, but there are other areas where it is more.

4) Should I go with 1/2" on the walls and celing and also glue the boards? Someone told me that I should use paper faced so I could glue the boards as opposed to poly which you can't.

5) Lastly, this is thinking ahead, but just curious if they make somthing (like a corner bead) that goes over the seam at a transition. The walls and celings change angles a lot and I notice on other houses these are prime spots for cracks in the future. Want to try and limit the possibility.

Thanks in advance! I may have more question down the road or as the come to mind.


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Old 06-04-2010, 06:20 AM   #2
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Nobody has any input? Think I have it all measured bit still looking for answers and advise on the other questions


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Old 06-12-2010, 11:09 AM   #3
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1) Measure as you would when hanging. I don't know about "blueboard", as I've never used it, but with regular drywall you can get various lengths (8',9',10',12',& 14') from a supply house to ensure the fewest joints. Some HD's carry those lengths except for the 14's. For a room requiring butt joints (longer than your longest length sheet) measure from the wall you are starting on to the nearest joist or stud. If it falls at 11'-6", for example, figure a 12' sheet. Measure from the opposite wall back to the same joist to figure the sheet to butt to it. If it's 70" for example, figure a 1/2 a 12' sheet. if it's 74", figure an 8' sheet. for the next run, measure the same way from the opposite wall (so you are staggering joints).
2) Figure hanging full over windows and cutting them out. Doors you can figure full on the top sheet and to the edge of the jamb on the bottom. Pre-cutting might be the easiest method. Or you can score the back of the sheet to the header height (or sill for the bottom sheet), hang the sheet, use a board saw to saw up or down either side of the window (door), snap the cut piece outward, and score the face paper to take the piece out. I would recommend pre-cutting light boxes. A router can also be used to cut out openings, but there is a huge learning curve and I wouldn't recommend it for a DIY"er.
3 & 4) 16" centers is max for 1/2" on ceilings. Use 5/8" if you're on 24". If you have some wall area that are say 18" or 20" between a stud bay (framer just wanted to save a stud) I wouldn't worry about it. If it's more, I would add a stud in between. Definitely use glue on all ceilings and walls. It will reduce the number of nail/screw pops down the road and give a more solid job.
5) Not quite sure of what you're meaning by "transition", but if you're meaning an angle other than 90 degrees, there is a metal reinforced paper tape (Sure Corner is one brand) made to help "straighten out imperfections in "off angles" and reinforce these areas where you tend to get more movement and cracking. There is another product called Strait-Flex that does the same job, without the metal reinforcement, but is a heavier paper type material and does a good job also.
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:42 PM   #4
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One of these are worth there weight in gold IMO.

click on the interactive demo video

There is a bit of a learning curve but its mainly on the depth adjustment

as that can vary depending on how much your board is bowed by the outlets windows ect.
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