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Old 02-02-2009, 04:49 PM   #16
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Alternatives to drywall?


Quote:
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Taping is a problem for most people, so use fiberglass mesh tape. I've never seen a newbie get a bubble in fiberglass mesh tape.
Oh gosh, I've done much worse than that with fiberglass mesh. I can always see the mesh through the mud after it dries unless I make a thicker joint which makes it harder to finish. I've also found that the sticky mesh (the stuff that you stick to the joint before you put any mud on it) ends up making a weaker joint. One wall got bumped with a chair and a chunk of mud fell off the joint leaving the mesh completely exposed. It looked like the mud never made it through the mesh to the drywall. To fix it I slapped mud on the joint and mashed the mesh into it.

I'm sure others have had more success with the mesh than I have but I went back to the old wet tape and premudding the joints.

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Old 02-02-2009, 05:32 PM   #17
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Alternatives to drywall?


I too agree with Nestor.

Why go to the trouble of putting something over the panelling if it isn't what you want.

Faux finishes are painting techniques that make the paint look like marble, leather, or whatever. Again the time you spend learning and doing the painting and faux finishing is just a waste of time.

Home improvement is a process not an event. Quit looking for an easy way out and jump into it. Pick a room and give it a go.
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:24 AM   #18
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are painting techniques that make a painted surface look like something else.

Leather, marble, etc...

I do not agree with what drtbk says though. Some techniques are hard to master, and time consuming.

Some are quite simple. As simple as "sponging" a splash of color over a different color background, smudging it with a dry brush or using a "textured" roll available in any hardware store.

There is this PainterLady website I like a lot.(Painting stuff is my hobby). It's like DIYers paradise. She has a lot of how-to videos and articles showing different techniques and a ton of info and resources. Take a look and you might find some inspiration and ideas.
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:25 AM   #19
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thanks for that link Cy
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:00 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm taking everything that's been said into consideration.

Quote:
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Quit looking for an easy way out and jump into it. Pick a room and give it a go.
Besides being at work 60 hours per week, I'm also a single dad to 2 little ones with no help from anyone. So yes, I am going to look for the simplest, easiest way to do things whenever possible.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:20 AM   #21
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i understand not wanting to paint over the panels because of the grooves cut in them... it'd just look too much like, well, painted panels!
i've used this stuff for various projects and have always had great results. walls, floors, i want to do my countertops with it when i get them in the new kitchen. look at the home page and see all the stuff it does. i even did a ceramic horse vase for the wife that had cracks and had been painted. hid the cracks, and it still looks great after 15 years or more now.
http://www.daichcoatings.com/Design%...ject11_jpg.htm
it's like CyFree said, you can do tons of colors and effects, and it's easy to cover those grooves too! with this stuff, it shouldn't look like paneling any more, and it's fast and easy to do too. and it costs close to paint too.

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Old 02-03-2009, 02:27 PM   #22
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One cheap thing you'll see in old apartments is mud painted right over whatever is on the wall. They take some thinned mud and simply "paint" it onto the walls with a paint roller. That leaves you with paintable walls that look something like textured plaster. It's not a beautiful technique but it does cover up a lot quickly and it's very cheap.

They did this to an apartment I lived in that was obviously drywall mud over wall paper. I got sick of looking at the seams (the mud tends to make the wall paper peel off) and removed the mud and the five layers of wall paper under it leaving very nice plaster that needed a quick skim coat.

To do this with paneling, you'd need to fill the grooves with mud first before hitting it with a paint roller.
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:32 PM   #23
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To do this with paneling, you'd need to fill the grooves with mud first before hitting it with a paint roller.
So do I fill with mud and that's it? Or is there more to it than that, like taping drywall?
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Old 02-03-2009, 07:41 PM   #24
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So do I fill with mud and that's it? Or is there more to it than that, like taping drywall?
You won't need to tape the grooves in panels (just fill them up with mud) but it wouldn't hurt to tape where two panels are nailed next to each other. There's a chance that the mud will crack here if they get bumped. The tape will strengthen the joint.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:52 PM   #25
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Another cheap and easy option besides painting the paneling would be installing wallpaper over it.

As far as a "good" solution, it doesn't get much cheaper than drywall. Have you thought about hanging the rock yourself and then just hiring someone to tape it? You can usually save a buck or two doing it that way.
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:19 PM   #26
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You won't need to tape the grooves in panels (just fill them up with mud) but it wouldn't hurt to tape where two panels are nailed next to each other. There's a chance that the mud will crack here if they get bumped. The tape will strengthen the joint.
I found a few videos on Youtube today about how to do this, so I'm thinking about giving this a try this weekend. However, one of the videos mentioned possible shrinkage of the mud after it dries, but didn't go into more detail. Is shrinkage something I should worry about?
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Old 02-04-2009, 02:32 PM   #27
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since the grooves are raw wood normally in cheap panels, perhaps mixing in some elmer's white glue to the mud would be a good idea?

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Old 02-04-2009, 03:56 PM   #28
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If your are going to fill in the grooves on the paneling I think it would be easier putting up drywall. You are going to have to mud the whole panel. Just my opinion.
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:08 PM   #29
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Justsomeguy:

If you're planning on doing the "painting drywall mud with a roller" technique, then I agree with DangerMouse that adding some white wood glue to your mud will help it stick in the grooves better. The more glue you add, the stickier the mud will be, the harder it will dry and the more difficult it will be to sand smooth.

So, don't sand it smooth. Take a paint scraper and scrape it down. The tungsten carbide paint scrapers available from Sandvik or Bahco work very well for this. You can buy them at Lee Valley.

Every drywall joint compound shrinks as it dries. You normally just apply a second coat to fill in the shrinkage. However, you'll see that the shrinkage is small, and you very well may be able to just go over that paneling with your mudded roller. I've never done this "mud on a roller" technique, so I'd be little concerned that as the mud shrank as it dried, you might see faint vertical lines on your walls cuz of that differential shrinkage as the mud over the lines dries, and the mud between the lines dries. (You might want to try using a 3 inch roller and a piece of sheet metal to do any edging first, and if you don't see faint lines on the stuff you did with a 3 inch roller, then proceed with using a 10 inch roller.)

If you do see faint lines, just give the lines another coat to fill in the shrinkage.

Most of the powders you mix with water to form a slurry will shrink as the water evaporates out of them. I think the only one that doesn't is cement (cuz most of the mixing water doesn't evaporate, it ends up being chemically bound up in the concrete).
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:00 AM   #30
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Thanks for the tips. I plan to try this this Saturday, and will let you guys know how well it works for me. Wish me luck.

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