DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum - Roofing http://www.diychatroom.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:28:10 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum - Roofing http://www.diychatroom.com standing seam over purlins http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/standing-seam-over-purlins-57600/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:17:25 GMT I live in Hawaii and want to re-roof. I currently have cedar shakes over 1x4 purlins spaced every 12". I want to install a standing seam metal roof. I plan on removing all of the old cedar shakes and felt. my question is, should I put solid decking on top of the purlins and then an underlayment (sharkskin), or can I just put the sharkskin on top of the purlins and then the standing seam and save the cost of the decking (OSB)? ]]> Roofing hawaiidiy http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/standing-seam-over-purlins-57600/ Your opinions/advice on these roofing pics. please http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/your-opinions-advice-these-roofing-pics-please-57576/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:11:23 GMT Hi As a follow-up to a previous thread about problems with my neighbours roof (http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/problems-neighbours-roof-56135/), I got a warranted builder in to fix the problem, remove the roof tiles and old felt, old lead and old flash band and replace with new waterproof... Hi

As a follow-up to a previous thread about problems with my neighbours roof, I got a warranted builder in to fix the problem, remove the roof tiles and old felt, old lead and old flash band and replace with new waterproof membrane, new slates and new lead etc. Generally speaking me and my husband are very happy with his work with two small exceptions, which I would be grateful for your feedback on please.

Inside my guttering there is an overhang of waterproof, breathable membrane, which I believe the Roofer fitted beneath the Slates as a replacement for felt. This is 'overhang' is unnoticeable from ground level but on close inspection, or whenever I would have to clean out the guttering from debris it looks very unsightly and unfinished. The Roofer states that it needs to overhand gutter to allow run-off to exit down drain pipes? Can it be trimmed back to make the membrane unseen without compromising the Roof?
The new slates and new lead looks immaculate bar one small area which used to look like this (see photo) and now looks like this. It stands out like a sore thumb but the Roofer states the end needs covered in lead and there is little he can do to get it to blend in with the rest of the roof.

What can I tell him please? What can he do to make the area look more sightly?

Regards

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]]> Roofing Shirley_Jones http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/your-opinions-advice-these-roofing-pics-please-57576/ Two questions for roofing http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/two-questions-roofing-57468/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:06:01 GMT I am about to install a new porch on the side of my house this weekend. I have all the trusses modified and all the posts and beams set. I am lost a little bit in two areas, the rest I believe I can handle. 1. How do I fasten the bottom of the trusses to my existing roof? I am building a... I am about to install a new porch on the side of my house this weekend. I have all the trusses modified and all the posts and beams set. I am lost a little bit in two areas, the rest I believe I can handle.

1. How do I fasten the bottom of the trusses to my existing roof? I am building a gable roof off the side of my existing roof and some of the trusses will be on the existing roof. Since the roof is at a pitch, how do I fasten them to the existing. I know I have to put hurricane straps thru the roof and onto the existing trusses, but those don't seem like they are really that strong. I also realize the Plywood will hold it all together better once that is in place. I attached a photo of what I made to kinda have and idea.

2. How do I tie the new shingle into the old shingle at the two valleys I will creat? My dad thinks if I cut the shingles along the valley and slide the new ones up underneath that would do the trick??

**edit: I guess you have to rotate all the pdfs counterclockwise**

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	CrossSection.pdf (17.1 KB)

]]> Roofing GatorsUF83 http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/two-questions-roofing-57468/ Roofing repair question http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-repair-question-57467/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:54:01 GMT I have a home that has moisture accumulating on the eve sides of the home in a few small spots. These spots are near the bottom of the roof. The shingles appear to be in tact and performing well, with no major deterioration looking down on the shingles from the roof top.
If there's a leak, I believe it's near the bottom of the run. Is there an easier, short term fix other than a full replacement or partial replacement? Like a sealer or something like that?

thanks ]]> Roofing brokenhammer http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-repair-question-57467/ How to install a kitchen vent cap on a roof with terracota tiles http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/how-install-kitchen-vent-cap-roof-terracota-tiles-57436/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:03:48 GMT Hello,

I am trying to install a kitchen hood vent that would go vertically through the roof with terracota tiles (barrel shape tiles). I know that I would need a duct, a transitional duct to connect the hood to the duct, and the vent cap. However, I don't know exactly how to install the cap on the terracota tiles. I searched the web to find instructions on how to install vent system for terracota tile roofs, but found nothing.

I will greatly appreciated if someone could provide me with step-by-step instructions on how to install a kitchen hood vent system for terracota tile roofs.

Thanks. ]]> Roofing Nanay http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/how-install-kitchen-vent-cap-roof-terracota-tiles-57436/ Rolled Roofing Leaking and Leaking http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/rolled-roofing-leaking-leaking-57415/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:14:35 GMT Hello All-So I have attached room and garage which had really old roofing on it... After a few roofing estimates (a whole other story)...Decided to do it myself with my friends. So stripped the old roofing off, repaired the ceiling spots that were rotted; did the #30 asphalt felt with the roofing... Hello All-So I have attached room and garage which had really old roofing on it... After a few roofing estimates (a whole other story)...Decided to do it myself with my friends. So stripped the old roofing off, repaired the ceiling spots that were rotted; did the #30 asphalt felt with the roofing tar stuff and 90lb mineral roofing. Now leaks really bad inside the attached room along the seem (checked where joins to the house) new flashing was installed... Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Much. ]]> Roofing DIYNewbee http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/rolled-roofing-leaking-leaking-57415/ Deck Cover http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/deck-cover-57374/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:05:00 GMT Okay, I have a gorgeous deck cover, all slatted redwood-look. Would like to cover it to prevent rain. DO NOT want to spoil the pretty sun/shade look, just keep out rain. Am thinking some kind of heavy-duty plastic sheets screwed to the long beams? Or do they make plastic or some other covering that... Okay, I have a gorgeous deck cover, all slatted redwood-look. Would like to cover it to prevent rain. DO NOT want to spoil the pretty sun/shade look, just keep out rain. Am thinking some kind of heavy-duty plastic sheets screwed to the long beams? Or do they make plastic or some other covering that comes in a long roll? I need about 30 feet long by 8 feet.I live in Bakersfield, triple-digit heat is a problem, but of course no snow. Am thinking the job would be fairly simple, but would welcome suggestions on types of plastic that would be durable in this awful sun.

any (economical!) suggestions very welcome,
thank you guys!

handylady ]]> Roofing handylady http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/deck-cover-57374/ Roofing TAR too THICK to spread on rolled roofing http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-tar-too-thick-spread-rolled-roofing-57358/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:29:44 GMT *How can we heat it up to make it easier to spread? We already carried 5 5 GAL. buckets up onto the roof and hope whatever needs to be done can be done up there. Please HELP*:help::wallbash::surrender: ~Liz How can we heat it up to make it easier to spread? We already carried 5 5 GAL. buckets up onto the roof and hope whatever needs to be done can be done up there. Please HELP:help::wallbash::surrender:

~Liz ]]> Roofing LizLooking http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-tar-too-thick-spread-rolled-roofing-57358/ New Roof - Concern Over Seemingly Poor Workmanship http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/new-roof-concern-over-seemingly-poor-workmanship-57309/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:58:50 GMT A roofing company with very good references just laid my new shingles this past week. I was told my crew was not their in house crew, but a contracted one. However, the company said there wouldn't be any difference in the quality of the install, and that it would be done to their high standards.

This was a job that I had intended to do myself, but simply ran out of vacation time. The roofing contractor did just the shingles and flashing. All tear off, decking repair, and underlayment was completed by me.

Now, after the install, there are several things which are disappointing. A couple things were specifically mentioned during the bid process and one was even in the contract, but these things were not completed in the method spoken of. I'd like to ask this community's opinion (both pro and homeowner) on some of these items and see what this community has to say about the items of most concern to me. I'll start with the worst and go to the least offensive.

Photos and videos of the issues are here:
photos
chimney video
valley video
roof damage

1) chimney flashing and counterflashing: It simply looks sloppy. I really didn't like the prospect of cutting a reglet into my brick and using one large straight piece of counterflashing for each quadrant of the chimney. But I checked with two masons before the job, and even they told me this was the way to have it done. Personally, I would much rather have had the old ground out of the mortar joints and the new put back in a stepped fashion, and re-mortared into the chimney. The other way simply seems like a shortcut method, and more convenient for the contractor. What I ended up with was a very messy install, in my opinion. Scratched up, dented counterflashing and flashing in 3 different colors with overcuts not sealed, uneven lines, and just overall poor workmanship. But what do you think?

2) box vents: 6 box vents were added to the main roof and two ridge vents to the smaller ridgelines that are at right angles. The 6 box vents are 4 different distances down from the ridge. The distances from the ridge to the center of the vents range from 8.5 - 13.5 inches. The two that are 8.5 are so high up they can be seen from the front of the house and have their flanges under the ridge cap shingles. I've never seen that before. I thought the whole point of putting them on the back of the house was to make them invisible from the street if possible. And 4 different distances from the ridge? Is it too much to expect to have a "professional" crew use a tape and at least make an attempt at being consistent?

3) valley construction: I was told the valley would be a closed cut valley. The salesman mentioned that they sometimes run a bleeder vertically up the valley. I had had another roofer mention this method to me, where they run the bleeder and then just bring the corners of the abutting shingles to the edge of the bleeder. This way they don't have to cut anything. I mentioned this to the salesman for the company I was using and he scoffed at that method saying their valleys are definitely cut valleys even if they use the bleeder. Well - not on my house they aren't. They used the "no-cut" method which seems like another way to simply slap the job down faster and not have to take the time to cut. I asked the owner of the roofing company about it and he said they are using this new method because they have found water can tend to find and follow the horizontal line on the BACK of the shingles where the lamination is when using just a standard closed-cut method. My question, though, is how the seams between the vertical bleeders are going to keep water from following them? The method they used seems to NOT be the preferred method of either Certainteed (my shingles) or GAF. I even called Certainteed about this. Should I be concerned about this bleeder, no-cut valley construction? Why do the shingle manufacturers NOT suggest it if it's just as good?

4) no starter strip or adhesive on the rakes: I was told they use starter on the rakes and was even requested to purchase another bundle for this purpose. They used no starter on the rakes. We're here in MO where high winds are prone in the spring with storms. Is it standard practice to either use starter or adhesive on the rake edges?

5) ridge cap shingles: several don't seem to be laying down, and they range from centered on the ridge (6" on either side) to visibly off-center (7" one side, 5" the other) This is even visible from the ground, though more noticeable from the roof. Is it common for ridge cap shingles to vary along the ridge line? I sure don't remember my old roof being that way.

6) Some other details are more minor, though one was discussed as something they do for aesthetics. That is to run the ridge vent all the way to the end of the ridge, even though the actual ridge opening would stop short of the edge by about one foot. I was told they do this to avoid the step up and down look. They didn't do it on my roof. Stopped the whole thing short of the end of the ridges which got these. Drip edge was done about 4 different ways where the rake drip edge meets the eave. ]]> Roofing cjakins http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/new-roof-concern-over-seemingly-poor-workmanship-57309/ Laying new roof after removal of old roof http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/laying-new-roof-after-removal-old-roof-57229/ Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:17:29 GMT Hi,

I've a single family (Split level) house. I want to change old roof (2 layers) and lay down new roof. Have following questions. Most of roofers told me to use Timberline 30 years or Owens corning 30years shingles. They told me about starter strip, Edge drip (around perimeter), Ice / Water shield (3 ft. from gutter edge), flashing around chimney and step type flashing where wall meets roof (if needed) (as I've Aluminium siding). No one is clear about Liquid barrier ? How important is Liquid barrier ?

Also I've 3 sections of roof and all are not conect with each other. On the top most section I've Roof fan. Other two section has one gable vents on each side. I do not have Sofitts. Few of them have suggested Ridge vents (Cobra with corresponding caps and shingle) and few of them told me that since I've Roof fan, I don't need Ridge vents. Also one of them suggested me to replace Roof fan with Humidistat (Roof fan which works with temp. as well as humidity) on the section where I've fan and the other two sections with Ridge vents while the other one suggested to do Ridge vent all over the roof (all 3 sections) and asked me to keep my fan setting (temp) at high temp so that it'll start only if the temp is higher than 100 degree F. Please suggest what is right way to do it as Shingle manufacturer will stand with the guarantee only if the ventilation is done correctly and I do not want any problem with my roof at later stage. Also do you suggest to get the Sofitts done in the roof too ?

Please give your honest opinion ? Also please suggest few good roofing companies in central NJ area (around edison, NJ with god references) and who are in business for long time (not fly by roofers). ]]> Roofing rupal http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/laying-new-roof-after-removal-old-roof-57229/ Retrofit flashing on rock chimney http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/retrofit-flashing-rock-chimney-57176/ Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:25:06 GMT Oh man...I'm not sure where to go with this...first objective was to keep squirrels out of my attic. Now in addition to that, I want to keep water out of my attic.

I have an irregular rock chimney butted up to the plywood siding, under an overhang.

I'd like advice on sealing the gap you can see in the pictures.

It looks to me, buy the flashing on the inside of the bottom picture, that I'm above the original roof line, and that whoever added a second story didn't tie the flashing into the chimney correctly.

It's been suggested that I use hardware cloth combined with expanding foam insulation to fill the space, which would keep the squirrels out, but I'm not sure about the water.

BTW, I've read that typically you cut a channel in the side of the rock in which to embed another flashing run, but as you can see by the irregularity of the rock surface, and by the ease (lack thereof) entry, I can't really get a grinder or saw in there.

Thanks! ]]> Roofing dahirolla http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/retrofit-flashing-rock-chimney-57176/ Vent Flashing http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/vent-flashing-57126/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 22:39:55 GMT Hello,

I have an asphalt shingle roof

I need to replace a gas furnace vent pipe and flashing because the roofers switched my water heater (3") over to my furnace vent (4") so now water heater has 4" and furnace has 3" which is causing issues with the furnace.
When I go to replace the flashing, will I be able to reuse the shingles around the flange if I'm careful or should I have new ones ready? This image is the type of flashing and pipe I have now. Shingles are Owens Corning duration with the surenail technology.

Thanks in advance

Attached Images

]]> Roofing 3rdroofdown http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/vent-flashing-57126/ Cut-Valley question http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/cut-valley-question-57102/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:22:45 GMT For a cut valley, does it make any difference which side is cut, main roof or addition roof? For a cut valley, does it make any difference which side is cut, main roof or addition roof? ]]> Roofing Clutchcargo http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/cut-valley-question-57102/ Roofing porch http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-porch-57098/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:08:38 GMT Going to start laying plywood and shinlges. If for some reason i can't get the shingles done because of weather. Will the plywood be ok till spring if i just leave it. Can i put felt paper to help prtect it some. ]]> Roofing Kurt1968 http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/roofing-porch-57098/ Installation of gutter apron over existing apron http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/installation-gutter-apron-over-existing-apron-57091/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 08:39:53 GMT I had a new roof put on two weeks ago which included a gutter apron. The roofer recommended that the gutter company that works for him replace the aluminum gutters and they installed six inch gutters last week. Inspection upon completion of the gutter installation reveals 1-2 inch cuts, and slits... I had a new roof put on two weeks ago which included a gutter apron. The roofer recommended that the gutter company that works for him replace the aluminum gutters and they installed six inch gutters last week. Inspection upon completion of the gutter installation reveals 1-2 inch cuts, and slits that clearly had nothing to do with the mounting brackets. These cuts occur inbetween the brackets and then the metal apron is bent upwards while in other areas, the apron has been pushed flush behind the brackets. The roofer inspected the gutters and was shocked at the shoddy workmanship. His first idea was to put in pieces of black metal and zip screw them in place. However, the damage to the apron is quite extensive. He is now suggesting that we install a second roof apron on top of the other one so as not to disturb the previously installed ice barrier. Are there any foreseeable problems with this idea? My main question is whether adding a second layer of gutter apron would impact the functionality of the roof. Thanks for any suggestions. ]]> Roofing dbosh http://www.diychatroom.com/f9/installation-gutter-apron-over-existing-apron-57091/