<![CDATA[DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling]]> http://www.diychatroom.com en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:27:50 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg <![CDATA[DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling]]> http://www.diychatroom.com bathroom remodel at a stand still becuase of floating vanity installation http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/bathroom-remodel-stand-still-becuase-floating-vanity-installation-57579/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:31:43 GMT My gut says to not trust the floating vanity installation instructions AT ALL. The vanity was manufactured by the same tile company that made my thick wall tiles. I would estimate the tile/thinset thickness to be roughly 3/4". the vanity is supposedly designed to be installed on tile walls.

It is a veneered floating vanity. The sink also serves as the "countertop", and has seperate wall mounting instructions, so theoretically, its weight is not carried by the vanity.

That being said, the instructions state to install the vanity by hooking the vanity to two metal loops attached to the wall. The metal loops are merely fastened to the wall with three 3" plastic wall anchors (like overgrown expansion anchors) clustered together.

Are they kidding me? expansion anchors to hold up a floating vanity?!

My gut says "no no no!!!!" I think the weight of the vanity will yank out 2 6" holes from the tiled walls as it tumbles to the ground.

Now the problem arises that what I think is more appropriate (attaching a board to the wall via screws into the wall studs, and mounting the vanity to THAT) will not work, becuase the vanity/sink combo is designed to be flush to the wall. to boot, the vanity anchors are not even close to the wall stud spacing, so I can't fasten the metal loops to the wall studs.

I'm I wrong to not trust the plastic wall anchors? Should I contact the manufacturer (who I fully expect to give me the run around and tell me to throw caution to the wind and use the plastic)?

I will try to find my camera and take pics of the wall anchors and vanity attachment.

I desperately want to avoid seeing a $2k vanity crash to the ground :( Please advise..... ]]> http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/bathroom-remodel-stand-still-becuase-floating-vanity-installation-57579/ Shower caulking http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/shower-caulking-57408/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:58:28 GMT I am fairly new at this so this might be a fairly straight fwd question.

I am recaulking my entire shower in the bathroom and I was able to remove the rubber-like caulk from all 4 sides. After i removed the rubber-like caulk material i noticed something where the tile and 'shower pan' (plastic/fiberglass drain pan) meet. I noticed that there is a hard white colored thing between the tile and the shower pan. I am not sure if I should remove this also before applying the new caulk. I am attaching a pic to make it a bit more clear.

If i remove this hard white thing there is a gap between the tile and the shower pan. so not sure if im supposed to remove the hard white thing and fill the gap with new caulk.
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]]> donjt81 http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/shower-caulking-57408/ Kitchen Layout suggestions needed http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/kitchen-layout-suggestions-needed-57376/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:19:00 GMT Ok, I have had the hardest time trying to figure out the best layout for my kitchen. Below is a picture of what it looks like. The door on the far left will be filled in to allow more cabinets and such. Right wall backs to hallway/living room. Ok, I have had the hardest time trying to figure out the best layout for my kitchen. Below is a picture of what it looks like. The door on the far left will be filled in to allow more cabinets and such. Right wall backs to hallway/living room.
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]]> Speedjunkiejp http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/kitchen-layout-suggestions-needed-57376/ o I really need a drop ceiling over my bathtub? http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/o-i-really-need-drop-ceiling-over-my-bathtub-57090/ Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:26:55 GMT Hi. Can someone please tell me what the purpose of the drop ceiling (soffit) over my bathtub is? Does it help to reduce the escape of the steam from showering?? When I renovated my bathroom, I had the soffit removed to gain more vertical space. But shortly after that, I noticed that the tiled... Hi.

Can someone please tell me what the purpose of the drop ceiling (soffit) over my bathtub is? Does it help to reduce the escape of the steam from showering??

When I renovated my bathroom, I had the soffit removed to gain more vertical space. But shortly after that, I noticed that the tiled walls outside the tub/shower area get pretty wet from the steam of showering, which did not happen before. This happens even with the exhaust fan running for half an hour.

Does the soffit help keep moisture in the tub area by the steam beading on the drop ceiling tiles, then the water droplets drop back into the tub, thus making less steam in the room? Does the soffit also limited the amount of steam out of the tub area because the space for the steam to escape is smaller?

I want to have the soffit built back in over the tub but of course, I don't want to do it if it will not help the moisture problem. I just find it puzzling that I did not have a moisture problem before the soffit was removed.

Thank you for any advice you can give me. ]]> chkaryti http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/o-i-really-need-drop-ceiling-over-my-bathtub-57090/ Drywall - to replace or just sand and mud? http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/drywall-replace-just-sand-mud-56915/ Tue, 10 Nov 2009 06:19:09 GMT Hi there,

I've removed the old mirror from the bathroom and it was installed with just construction glue. In pulling it down, there was quite a bit of damage to the drywall that I think is superficial but I'd like to get some expert opinions on the matter.

Pictures are attached...is this something I can just sand and mud to clean up or should I just replace that entire section of drywall? I'm not sure at this point if we will be going with two separate mirrors or one big mirror when finishing up the bathroom so it's unknown how much will be exposed in the end.

Thanks for the tips in advance,

Chris P.
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]]> chrispy35 http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/drywall-replace-just-sand-mud-56915/ So many questions - tub installation, floor tiles, subfloor... http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/so-many-questions-tub-installation-floor-tiles-subfloor-56546/ Wed, 04 Nov 2009 07:35:47 GMT Hi there,

Just starting a complete reno of our ensuite and I'm learning as I go... :)

Tub/Floor Tiles
I have to replace the tub (old one was cracked along the edge) and am replacing the floor as well. We are planning on a tub with an apron rather than a drop-in as we didn't like the look of our old drop-in tub. When I visualize where the tub apron meets the tiles, it seem like it would be a nicer edge to tile first (to cover a little under the tub edge) and then mount the tub over the tiles. Is this OK to do or should the tub always be mounted first and then the floor tiled up to the edge of the tub?

Old Subfloor Removal
The old subfloor is quite a mess after the old tiles were pulled up. What is the best way to remove the old subfloor while getting as close to the walls as possible. I've seen recommendations to use a circular saw with depth set to the subfloor thickness but that would seem to me to leave quite a large strip of the old subloor around the wall edges. Do people just normally leave that old strip around the edges or is there some other technique to get the old subfloor out with less clearance to the walls required?

I'm sure there will be many more questions to come I'm sure but any answers/suggestions on the above questions would be very much appreciated.

Thx,

Chris P. ]]> chrispy35 http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/so-many-questions-tub-installation-floor-tiles-subfloor-56546/ Granite Bar Overhang support http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/granite-bar-overhang-support-56499/ Tue, 03 Nov 2009 15:59:06 GMT Hey all - in the final leg of kitchen reno, been doing almost all myself, except the granite install... followed advice I've heard on here to leave that to the pros... and thank god I did! :thumbsup: Man those slabs were big and heavy. Actually, felt kinda good for once to sit back and watch. :whistling2:

I'm attaching a crude diagram I made below, but essentially, we made a 5.5 foot wide cutout in a wall from the kitchen to the living room, where we had a granite "bar top" installed. The wall is about 3.5" wide and the slab itself is about 16 inches at its widest (slopes narrower to both edges... almost like half an oval) and the templater/installer put it on with about a 1-1/4" overhang into the kitchen.

My question is the support for this: As they were installing other pieces in the kitchen, I installed 2 fairly light (in my estimation) metal brackets (not iron triangles, as you see in the diagram, just "L" shaped) to support the granite a bit. The installers used this lovely smelling epoxy and spread that all along the top of the 3.5" wide, 5.5 foot opening where the granite would sit. They said the epoxy ALONE would "lock in" the granite even if someone were to push down on the hanging end.... the brackets would also help.

They held it there for about an hour while it set, and left with a 2x4 blocking to hold up the hanging end while the epoxy cured (they said a day or 2, it's been there for about 4 days now).

I'm a bit leary of this... is the epoxy really that strong to hold that slab just across 3.5" of wall width from cantilevering under its own weight, let alone if I put anything on the top of it or heaven forbid someone push down on the end??

Attachment 14593

Thanks for your input in advance... let me know if you need more "real" pictures or clarifying info.
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]]> LeviDIY http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/granite-bar-overhang-support-56499/ Subfloor gap to wall http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/subfloor-gap-wall-56347/ Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:15:56 GMT We are now installing the new subfloor over the crawlspace for our bathroom, but because of the studs we have about 1/2" to 3/4" gap from the plywood subfloor to the wall, but only at one end! Do we need to buy a new piece of plywood and make the gap smaller, or can we fill it out with something? ]]> ThomasPernille http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/subfloor-gap-wall-56347/ Sauna Shower/Bathtub http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/sauna-shower-bathtub-56338/ Sat, 31 Oct 2009 18:14:49 GMT I am near closing on an older home, and I'm starting to plan for some remodels. One of the most intriguing ideas to me is putting in a sauna shower, as many can be found for relatively cheap in online stores.

I am a first-time home buyer with a lot of ambition for this house, so I want to do as much research as I can before I make final decisions.

After researching sauna showers, I have found no unbias reviews or actual customer comments. I am wondering if anyone owns or has owned a sauna shower in their home, and if there are any benefits or consequences that I should expect to experience. Thanks! ]]> Jags3488 http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/sauna-shower-bathtub-56338/ Kitchen remodel http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/kitchen-remodel-56227/ Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:54:38 GMT Well Its started. 1/2 the cabinets are down 60% of the floor is up. The plan: -Replace old cabs with new stock ones -Tile or laminate wood flooring - Wire in under cab light and accent lighting above cabs That sound simple that way I ended up using a rotary hammer to get the... Well Its started. 1/2 the cabinets are down 60% of the floor is up.

The plan:
-Replace old cabs with new stock ones
-Tile or laminate wood flooring
- Wire in under cab light and accent lighting above cabs

That sound simple that way

I ended up using a rotary hammer to get the tiles up off the slab, set it to hammer and went at it about 5 hours to get done what I did.
tried a "the stripper" from the rental place non effective at all.
rot/hmmr the way to go some tiler popped whole some cameout in schrapnel like pieces.
WEAR saftey glasses!! I had trickels of blood from forehead and many places on arms. It comes at you in a hurry

SO I need opinions should I refloat the floor and reinstall tile or laminate hardwood?

I only consider the wood due to the damage to the slab and the amount of work its going to take to prep for new tile.
I need an easy way to get the thinset off the slab I figured an angle grinder with some form or wheel/wire. I know I need some thing thats not gonna clog up and be kinda speedy.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...2/IMG_2355.jpg ]]> Skunk http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/kitchen-remodel-56227/ What do I do with this countertop - suggestions??? http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/what-do-i-do-countertop-suggestions-56226/ Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:50:17 GMT We purchased our house in June. Needed a big facelift but it was mostly paint and re-finishing the hardwood floors. I'm currently working on the kitchen and I need some suggestions on what to do with this countertop - previous owner painted it PINK! I'm not sure what kind of paint they used, but it's pretty darn scratch resistant. There's only one small place where it's flaking off the countertop.

Here's what I'm planning - sage green walls, paint cupboards white, put in double sink, and I am stumped as to what to do with the countertop. Is there some kind of paint I can safely use to paint it a different color? I don't mind using a "temporary" solution if it looks reasonable. We're getting to the end of this year's reno dollars....

Or, I really like tiles, but I don't want to replace the whole countertop board, as it's very solidly built onto the wood cabinets. If I could find a way to tile over existing countertop, that would be my first choice. But everything I've read says you should NOT tile over formica.

Here is a "before" picture... So far, after this pic was taken, we've removed the wallpaper, painted the walls and removed the backsplash. I'll be tiling a backsplash behind the counters for sure.

Any suggestions??? :huh:
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]]> cweese http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/what-do-i-do-countertop-suggestions-56226/ Hiding shower pipes http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/hiding-shower-pipes-56073/ Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:48:37 GMT I am replacing my standard bath, which is in a corner of my bathroom.The new bath is a 'P' shaped shower bath. I want to construct a false wall at the shower end of the bath (the same width as the bath) to conceal the shower pipes to the shower mixer and the fixed shower head. All that should be visible is the shower mixer controls and the shower head. I would like to tile it but presumable I need to provide some way of servicing access. Can anyone direct me to a link, video, illustration or just plain written construction details?

Many thanks ]]> Jackamus http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/hiding-shower-pipes-56073/ Noob bathroom remodel http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/noob-bathroom-remodel-55905/ Sun, 25 Oct 2009 17:18:22 GMT Hi All,

I am in the midst of a complete bathroom remodel. The original bathroom was plumbed with polybutylene which cracked and leaked, grew mold, and ruined 3 bathrooms. Insurance didn't give us near enough to rebuild all the bathrooms so we're doing two of them ourselves.

Our plan is to build a walk-in shower with with two shower heads and electric radiant floor heat. The subfloor under the shower is plywood. The subfloor under the rest of the bathroom is particle board. We plan on tiling the floors. We plan to use suntouch

BATHROOM DIMENSIONS: 12' x 5'.
Shower interior dimensions: 44 1/2" x 4'7"

We plan to use a single 3' x 15" Suntouch radiant heat mat. The power source for the heat mat comes from the wall next to our bedroom which is about 8' from the shower.

The dimensions of the shower are 48" deep (including the divider) x 55" wide. I have a bunch of questions and attached some pictures but apparently I can't post images. OK I can post images!

First photo shown: bathroom02 (overview)
Second photo: bathroom05 (ceiling)
Third photo:bathroom07 (exterior wall)
Fourth photo: bathroom10 (interior wall)
Fifth photo: bathroom 11 (exterior wall) highlighting nonexistent but needed nailer for sheetrock. (see writing on floor).

PHOTOS AND QUESTIONS

First photo: overview shot taken from the doorway.

bathroom07 shows a bit more detail. The wall that is shown in 07 is an exterior wall (into a garage). It has always been a bit cold in that shower. We are planning on filling that space with double insulation and running the pipes from above. I realized after building the 2x6 frame that I'll need a nailer for the sheetrock on the outside of the shower. (see bathroom11). I am thinking that I should attach a 1x4 nailer to my 2x6 stud. I don't want to use 2x4 there because I don't want to compress the insulation.


bathroom10
We'll probably build a half-wall attached to the interior wall. The step into the shower will be to the left of the 48" line shown in bathroom10. WIth or without the half wall we'll need a nailer in front of that black drain pipe. There is only room for 1-by since the distance from the pipe where the sheet rock will be is only 1". Will 1x4 or 1x6 nailers be ok?

bathroom05 ceiling.
I believe the panasonic fan shown is ok in a shower, but I guess I better double check it. The other question related to that picture is related to the 1/2 " pex lines shown. Those lines feed a utility room above which has a washer and a toilet. Can I feed one the new shower head from those lines or should I replace them with a larger size? I am thinking it wouldn't be that big of a deal to replace the lines from about where they disappear into the ceiling on the left back to the right to where they connect to a bigger line. I'd probably want to use shark-bite fittings with a T there. On the other hand, I don't want to replace those lines needlessly. Is the existing 1/2" PEX wide enough to feed both the shower and the washer?

All input/suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
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]]> jep http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/noob-bathroom-remodel-55905/ Help with shower pan removal - 1960s bath http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/help-shower-pan-removal-1960s-bath-55903/ Sun, 25 Oct 2009 16:22:44 GMT I am renovating a bath that had a cave-like, 31" x 53" tiled shower. I can see water damage looking up at the subfloor. A plumber told me it is likely that the shower pan failed.

The 1" shower floor tiles came up easily with a hammer and flat edge screwdriver. Then I tried chiseling away at the substance underneath, and also hitting it with a sledgehammer, with no real success. I am not sure how to continue with removal of this substance. I assume this is "mud" that is covering the shower pan. (?)

I am not sure what the shower pan is made of, but it is a thicker, somewhat rubberized, bendable material that also went up all four corners of the shower.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

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]]> jm71 http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/help-shower-pan-removal-1960s-bath-55903/ Uneven grout color http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/uneven-grout-color-55544/ Tue, 20 Oct 2009 00:54:10 GMT We had the tile replaced in our shower. Everything was removed (tile, wallboard, etc.), and new tile was installed. Some small areas of the grout are darker than others. About 90 percent of the grout is the desired beige color. A number of small sections are a brown color, as if the grout... We had the tile replaced in our shower. Everything was removed (tile, wallboard, etc.), and new tile was installed. Some small areas of the grout are darker than others. About 90 percent of the grout is the desired beige color. A number of small sections are a brown color, as if the grout didn't dry. The contractor used polyblend sanded grout. The darker coloring is especially bad in the corners of the two niches for holding soap and shampoo bottles. The grout was applied October 12, and has not been touched since then. See the attached pictures.

What caused the problem?
How can we get rid of the dark sections of grout?
In the future, how can this coloring problem be prevented?
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]]> homeownertexas http://www.diychatroom.com/f80/uneven-grout-color-55544/