http://www.diychatroom.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:08:04 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.diychatroom.com http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tiling-cold-weather-57617/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:46:07 GMT I have a sunroom 100sq' in area that isn't heated. Temps here in Virginia can get down to 32F. The question is, should I wait until spring to tile or what are the tricks for tiling in cold weather....type grout, thin set, durock or hardibacker what about the effects of cold and hot weather on the flexing? The present floor is tongue and groove wood underfloor is plywood. ]]> Flooring pglc http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tiling-cold-weather-57617/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/laminate-carpeting-57568/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:29:03 GMT I'm thinking about replacing the carpeting in my basement. My situation is one where I want to replace it with laminate flooring and the wife wants to stick with carpeting. Her reason being that it will act as a sound deadener.

It's just me down here 80% of the time, what do you think? ]]> Flooring oldbear914 http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/laminate-carpeting-57568/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/do-floor-installers-usually-not-trim-doors-57546/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:43:56 GMT Just spent $12,000 having all our hardwood floors replaced with 3/4" solid tigerwood. It looks great, the installation team was very professional.

However, we arrived back at the house to find all our doors off their hinges. The foreman said that they needed to be trimmed down before they went back on the hinges, and it was their policy to NOT trim doors.

This was puzzling as the salesman had said that the would trim the doors for us as the floor would be higher. I remember this vividly because we were prepared to go with thinner engineered wood so we wouldn't have to deal with trimming down the doors, and he assured us that they would take care of it.

In the end, we got into a shouting match with them insisting it wasn't in the contract for them to trim the doors down and that he never said they would do it in the first place. We countered with his verbal promise to do it, as well as just common sense that people would expect the doors to be trimmed and re-hung simply as part of the job.

So, is it standard practice for flooring installers to NOT trim doors? ]]> Flooring thebigsee http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/do-floor-installers-usually-not-trim-doors-57546/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/vinyl-underlay-57524/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:26:35 GMT Hi,

I am installing sheet vinyl (mid-high end stuff) in my kitchen and need some advice on underlay.

I have ripped out all the old hardwood and ceramic tile that was there, and am now down to the subfloor (1x8 angled slats, not sheet plywood, and not T&G).

To prepare for the vinyl, my plan is to lay 1/4" mahogany (luan) and staple it to the subfloor, fill in the seams with floor leveler, and lay the vinyl on top of that.

Does this seem like the right plan, or am I missing something that could be better.

Ideally, I would be installing a ceramic floor, but my wife, for whatever reason, prefers vinyl, and I prefer to pick my battles.

Any advice? ]]> Flooring Zee 32 http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/vinyl-underlay-57524/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/cork-underlayment-tiles-57514/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:59:36 GMT Hello everyone, I am new is in this forum... We are in the process of replacing the flooring of our house. We are on a concrete slab and would love to have tiles. However, our friends made the experience that tiles are getting pretty chilly in the winter time, even in South Virginia. We were... Hello everyone,
I am new is in this forum...
We are in the process of replacing the flooring of our house. We are on a concrete slab and would love to have tiles. However, our friends made the experience that tiles are getting pretty chilly in the winter time, even in South Virginia. We were looking into floor heating, but it is a bit too pricy for us.

Now I came across "cork" as a underlayment for tiles as not only help with sound, but also as thermal insulation.

Does anyone have experience with cork as underlayment for tiles on a concrete slab?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Andrea ]]> Flooring IloveMuenchen http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/cork-underlayment-tiles-57514/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/advice-engineered-wood-new-townhome-57476/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:27:00 GMT Greetings. Thanks for having me as a member here.

We bought a new construction townhome and it's time to decide on floors. We would really prefer wood floors over the default vinyl and standard rug. The place is about 2,500 sq ft. and we'd like to put wood in all areas except the bathrooms and stairs, so, estimating 2,100 sq ft in wood. The builder's design center is quoting us about $22k for engineered maple, 5" wide boards, 1/2" thick, random lengths up to 7', 2-3mm top veneer layer, micro-beveled, aluminum oxide finish. It's lightly distressed (hand-scraped by hand) with almost matte finish which we sort of like... won't have to obsess about every little scratch or dent. Product is Gemwoods, 25 yr finish warranty. I know the veener is on the thin side, but at most I only ever see use redoing the finish, not the stain.

As a rule, I know using the builder's design center is going to be more expensive than an outside contractor. But I sort of dread the thought of having the builder lay down the carpet and vinyl and then after we close escrow, have an outside person come in, tear it all up and redo the floors in wood. And if we use the builder's vendor, there will also be more accountability on the installation. The unit is still under construction and we'll need to make some flooring decisions before a contractor could really come in and give a quote.

So, I'm just sort of fishing for some feedback on the type of wood we are considering, and the quote. I am attaching a picture.

Also, anyway to tell if this is a rotary peeled or sliced veener product?

]]> Flooring sportinwla http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/advice-engineered-wood-new-townhome-57476/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/refinishing-maple-hardwood-57461/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:00:39 GMT Just bought a new house and will hoefully close in a couple of weeks. I had a question about wood floor refinishing. the home has hardwood floors underneath carpet and linoleum. It appears to be maple flooring. The carpet was crap and the linoleum was old school. I’m not sure what the... Just bought a new house and will hoefully close in a couple of weeks. I had a question about wood floor refinishing. the home has hardwood floors underneath carpet and linoleum. It appears to be maple flooring. The carpet was crap and the linoleum was old school. I’m not sure what the condition is of the floor until the carpet gets removed. If it looks serviceable I’ll refinish it. I've seen the Verathane orbital sanders at Lowes that you can rent. Are these good for stripping old floors or are they primarily used for new floor application? Those drum sanders are supposed to be good for removing old finish but I’ve heard they can be a handful and really tear the crap out of your floor if you don't know what you are doing.

Secondly, I've heard that Verathane is better than Minwax Poly. I have concerns about my pregnant wife being anywhere near poly finishes. I thought that if I tackled this project I'd do it as soon as I closed on the home before we move in. I also need to do some painting. How long would it take before it's safe for her to spend time in the house? ]]> Flooring speedster1 http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/refinishing-maple-hardwood-57461/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/subfloor-construction-57459/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:38:25 GMT Hey Everyone. I am a new home owner and have begun to tear out my bathroom on the second floor. When I got down to joists there are 1 x 8s that lay on there. I have replaced the ones that needed to be and am ready to build the rest of the floor. I have read many articles and posts and have come... Hey Everyone. I am a new home owner and have begun to tear out my bathroom on the second floor. When I got down to joists there are 1 x 8s that lay on there. I have replaced the ones that needed to be and am ready to build the rest of the floor. I have read many articles and posts and have come up with about 30 different ways to complete the subfloor in preparation for some tile. The bathroom is about 8 x 8 so it isn't huge.

Here is my thought - I will lay a 3/4 inch BC Sanded Pine plywood on top of the 1 x 8 s. I will screw these into the joists (I have read in favor of screwing into and not into the joists). Then I plan to put about a 1/4 inch of self leveling crete on top of the plywood to level the floor out in that there is a slight variation. Next I will put a coat of mortar between the self leveling crete to act as a glue for the HardiBacker board. Once that is on there I plan to use HardiBacker, 1/4 inch thick, to accept the tile.

Is this over kill to have that many layers??? I have the room to do this if needed but I want to make sure that all of those steps are necessary. Appreciate all the help. ]]> Flooring Dutchman80 http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/subfloor-construction-57459/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/stamped-concrete-info-please-searched-57434/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 08:52:27 GMT http://www.diychatroom.com/search.php?searchid=1069961 Thats my search. Hi! Looking to buy a home that currently has indoor stamped concrete floors, its quite interesting. They went for the staggered or cobblestone tile look with this light color and the grout is sort of jagged or cracked... http://www.diychatroom.com/search.php?searchid=1069961

Thats my search.

Hi! Looking to buy a home that currently has indoor stamped concrete floors, its quite interesting. They went for the staggered or cobblestone tile look with this light color and the grout is sort of jagged or cracked looking. Actually looks pretty cool. Anyway Im wondering a couple of things, whats the down side? Ive read about coldness and cracks. Coldness I dont care about, and cracks the way the pattern is im not sure i would notice. Possibly the whole floor is cracked for all I know being as the pattern is similar to a crack.

So my main question is how hard is it to put tile over stamped floors? Do you have to grind down? If so how far? Is this costly? Would the cost vary a lot from a typical tile job? Like I said the flooring has a cracked grout look so its not 100% flat like a giant slab would be.

Any help would be appreciated. :thumbup: ]]> Flooring ZeroPM http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/stamped-concrete-info-please-searched-57434/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/minwax-polyurethane-floors-57416/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:51:34 GMT I have sanded and stained (with Minwax stain) my hardwood floors and got Minwax's "Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors". Has anyone used it? Is it better than regular polyurethane? How about the water based product. We couldn't find it at Lowes or Home Depot but if it is significantly better, we will hunt it down. We like the idea that you don't have to sand in between coats and it doesn't yellow is supposedly easier to apply and that there is a low VOC version of the oil based product (but we couldn't find that either). If anyone has any information on any of these 3 products, I would love to hear if these products are what they claim they are......

thanks,
GG :cool2: ]]> Flooring ggcanner http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/minwax-polyurethane-floors-57416/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tile-over-tile-over-slate-can-slate-salvaged-57413/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 21:27:10 GMT Here's my situation:

Original to the house is slate tile in the foyer, approx 150-200 sq. ft. Over this was a layer of 2" ceramic tiles, adhered with mastic. Over *this* was 6" ceramic, installed with thinset.

I've now removed both layers of tile, and am in the process of removing the mastic using a scraper and mastic remover (NASTY stuff). We didn't like the floor as it was, and the way I look at it, either a) I get down to the slate, it looks like crap, and I put new tile over it, or b) I get down to the slate and it looks great. Either way, it'll look better than before.

The slate on the areas I have cleaned as well as I can looks really dull. I assume I can apply sealer to help kick up the appearance? Anybody have recommendations on what kind or brands to use? Also, is it worth it just to give up on getting the mastic out of the grout and just regrouting? ]]> Flooring jwilds1 http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tile-over-tile-over-slate-can-slate-salvaged-57413/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/type-tile-bathroom-57395/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:08:28 GMT I am remodeling my bathroom, and I want to tile the floor as well as the tub surround. I would like to know what type of tile to use on the floor and the tub surround. Ceramic or porcelain? I have some picked out at Lowes, but they have a texture to them, so would water get into the... I am remodeling my bathroom, and I want to tile the floor as well as the tub surround.

I would like to know what type of tile to use on the floor and the tub surround. Ceramic or porcelain?

I have some picked out at Lowes, but they have a texture to them, so would water get into the texture on the shower walls?

Here is the one I have picked out for the floor, then there are smaller matching tiles for the tub surround.



Would this work, or should I have something smooth for the bathroom?

Also, do I seal the floor and the tub surround, and if so, what do I use and how?

Thanks! ]]> Flooring Vikeologist http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/type-tile-bathroom-57395/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/wood-floors-57354/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:26:46 GMT Length x weith= sq foot . Thats how much wood you need to buy is that correct. I was reading you should buy more than you need might have some pieces that are no good . when you put down wood floors do you have to pull the base board off the wall. What are some good brands of flooring .Does lumber... Length x weith= sq foot . Thats how much wood you need to buy is that correct. I was reading you should buy more than you need might have some pieces that are no good . when you put down wood floors do you have to pull the base board off the wall. What are some good brands of flooring .Does lumber liquadators carry good product.Dont know much about it I do know carpet sucks in high traffic areas. ]]> Flooring cdundon4va http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/wood-floors-57354/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/engineered-wood-failed-under-refridgerator-57300/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:25:24 GMT we have engineered hard wood (or at least I think it is, its three sheets of hard wood glued together with toung and groove fitting) and the previous owners of the house had water leaking out of their refrigerator (the entire kitchen is this stuff) and the whole fridge bay warped and the top... we have engineered hard wood (or at least I think it is, its three sheets of hard wood glued together with toung and groove fitting) and the previous owners of the house had water leaking out of their refrigerator (the entire kitchen is this stuff) and the whole fridge bay warped and the top finished layer pealed off a few planks and drastically wrinkled or cracked on the rest under it.... how in the world do I go about fixing this? is it hard to fix and replace the boards? never did this before but it looks horrible, I have about 10 pieces of extra flooring boards in our atic for it but probably not enough... is it hard to get this stuff matched to new orders? i think its just red oak engineered hardwood... I'd assume just take a sample down to lowes and compare it to what they have in stock? but my biggest problem is how to pull up the bad and replace it with new... any ideas or suggestions? thanks! ]]> Flooring BlueBSH http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/engineered-wood-failed-under-refridgerator-57300/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/failure-finish-57297/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:05:45 GMT Hello, My home was built in 1965. About ten years ago, I repainted a bedroom. At the same time, I washed a hard wood floor and, after it dried thoroughly, brushed on a coat of oil based polyurethane. After several months, I noticed that the finish did not adhere. It flaked and could... Hello,

My home was built in 1965. About ten years ago, I repainted a bedroom. At the same time, I washed a hard wood floor and, after it dried thoroughly, brushed on a coat of oil based polyurethane. After several months, I noticed that the finish did not adhere. It flaked and could literally be peeled off of the floor. Because the floor was covered by a rug, I just let it go.

I'm redoing the room again and want to address the floor. Specifically, I want to re-coat the floor with poly. What steps can I take to insure that my finish won't fail again. ]]> Flooring dwlodyka http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/failure-finish-57297/