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		<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Painting</title>
		<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:51:53 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Painting</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
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			<title>Touching Up The Primer - Without Leaving Marks?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/touching-up-primer-without-leaving-marks-57616/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:27:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[One room which was skim coated, the workers didn't sand it too good and there were also some defects that needed fixing...I noticed this after priming. 
 
I went back and compounded some places on walls and ceiling to smooth out some screening marks and also small voids and defects. So there's a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>One room which was skim coated, the workers didn't sand it too good and there were also some defects that needed fixing...I noticed this after priming.<br />
<br />
I went back and compounded some places on walls and ceiling to smooth out some screening marks and also small voids and defects. So there's a bunch of small patches of compound a few inches in diameter...but there's also a several areas with at least a foot diameter - or even two feet -  of compound touch up. These newly compounded areas have all been sanded and blended.<br />
<br />
What is the recommended method of dealing with these post-priming patches? Should they be primed or is it OK just painting the top coat* over them? My gut tells me they need primer, but I do not want to leave roller or brush marks which might telegraph through the topcoat, especially brush marks. So, I'm thinking spot rolling these areas with a pretty dry roller (Ben Moore Fresh Start primer) will blend the new primer in leaving minimal marks. Does that work, or is it necessary to re-prime the entire room.<br />
<br />
Is there a better way?<br />
<br />
*Ceiling paint will be Ben Moore Moresco and wall paint will be Ben Moore Regal, Flat or Matte.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Lovegasoline</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/touching-up-primer-without-leaving-marks-57616/</guid>
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			<title>Venetian Plaster</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/venetian-plaster-57615/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:50:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I apply and train people on the craft of fine wall finish (Venetian plaster) applicaiton in Southern California.   Fine wall finishes are very beautiful when done correctly.  As I consult with professionals, I am happy to offer my advise to the DIYer.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I apply and train people on the craft of fine wall finish (Venetian plaster) applicaiton in Southern California.   Fine wall finishes are very beautiful when done correctly.  As I consult with professionals, I am happy to offer my advise to the DIYer.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Plaster Ayn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/venetian-plaster-57615/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Non Fading Red Exterior Paint</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/non-fading-red-exterior-paint-57608/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:25:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1949 wood California Ranch house painted red, every year we have to repaint it because it fads so much. Love the color hate the work. Any suggestion of a long lasting non fading RED exterior paint to use?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1949 wood California Ranch house painted red, every year we have to repaint it because it fads so much. Love the color hate the work. Any suggestion of a long lasting non fading RED exterior paint to use?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>ericaka</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/non-fading-red-exterior-paint-57608/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>new process or product for re staining or painting wood cabinets</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/new-process-product-re-staining-painting-wood-cabinets-57606/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:53:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just saw a home for sale that the decorator had taken older maple cabinetry and darkened it to look like Mahogony..wood grain still showed and it looked great did not look painted but I was told it is a point process?  Does anyone know what the process and product is?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just saw a home for sale that the decorator had taken older maple cabinetry and darkened it to look like Mahogony..wood grain still showed and it looked great did not look painted but I was told it is a point process?  Does anyone know what the process and product is?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>efox</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/new-process-product-re-staining-painting-wood-cabinets-57606/</guid>
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			<title>What looks like aged, graying wood?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/what-looks-like-aged-graying-wood-57599/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:09:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have raw pine t&g boards that are very smooth (they came this way from Lowe's - plank paneling). I would like to make them look aged and kind of graying. I'm looking for the simplest method to do this. I have lung disease and can't exert myself too much, so I'd like maybe a stain or something...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have raw pine t&amp;g boards that are very smooth (they came this way from Lowe's - plank paneling). I would like to make them look aged and kind of graying. I'm looking for the simplest method to do this. I have lung disease and can't exert myself too much, so I'd like maybe a stain or something that can be done in just a couple of steps. I plan to coat the finished product in a water based urethane.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Jim</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Jim McClain</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/what-looks-like-aged-graying-wood-57599/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Zinsser Cover Stain Sucks</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/zinsser-cover-stain-sucks-57580/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:02:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Why is it about Zinsser Cover Stain oil base primer that sucks so much? I really want to like this product, but can't.  
 
First off, I have been a professional artist, oil painter for 20 years. I spend my time using sticks with hair. I have used many oil enamels in my time and a variety of oil...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Why is it about Zinsser Cover Stain oil base primer that sucks so much? I really want to like this product, but can't. <br />
<br />
First off, I have been a professional artist, oil painter for 20 years. I spend my time using sticks with hair. I have used many oil enamels in my time and a variety of oil paints. I have brushed and sprayed many materials in my time. I have also finished allot of wood furniture with a variety of brush and spray finishes. I can brush oil modified polyurethanes and shellacs all with impeccable results so it looks like glass and looks just as good as a superior spray job.<br />
<br />
I am doing renovation work including labor insane intensive stripping of 80 year old wood doors, moldings, and door/window frames. I&#8217;ve got the wood sanded and prepped to silky smooth perfection. <br />
<br />
My first go round of priming bare wood baseboards, wall molding, and panel doors was using Zinsser 1-2-3 water base. It brushed on smooth. It laid down smooth. It leveled smooth. And dry, it looks so damn good it doesn&#8217;t need sanding and could actually never see a topcoat and still look impeccable. <br />
<br />
Then I made the mistake and asked some more questions and the advice I got was that Cover Stain was the ticket for bare interior wood&#8230;everyone chimed in. It wouldn&#8217;t raise the grain, blah, blah, blah.<br />
<br />
Well, this crude product is like painting with tar. I cannot speak for spraying the stuff, but when brushed, I got such coarse brush marks that sanding it out looks to be a major production and I do not think I have the stomach for it&#8230;too much work. My application was correct. I made sure temps were perfect: they were. I made sure prep was correct: it was. Brush loading, methods of application, yadda, yadda. Tried everything. I bought another damn brush (white bristle brush) when I already had a premium Purdy black China bristle that has performed with other oil base products masterfully. Nothing I did yielded any improvement to the level that I came to understand Cove Stain was a superior product. Too many driers, or fillers, or something in the formulation. <br />
<br />
I tried Penetrol. Improvement in flow and diminution in coverage&#8230;doesn&#8217;t look so hot. And still brushes like crap, <br />
<br />
Can someone explain why this product is being recommended for high quality priming tasks on raw wood indoors as if it is a god send? <br />
<br />
<br />
I had originally bought the stuff to go over some doors that I didn&#8217;t want to strip all the way to bare wood and that had decades old oil paint which I wanted to prime, then top coat with acrylic/latex base paint. Everyone is saying &#8220;Use this stuff on raw wood!!!! &#8220;It&#8217;s the best!&#8221;. I have read exhaustively about how to apply the Cover Stain and tried so many ways to use it, I am pretty much disillusioned and think you guys must be smoking something. I am completely disgusted with this 2nd class product and I think I will return to the Zinsser 1-2-3 for bare wood. <br />
<br />
On that note, can any one recommend a high build, brush on, interior primer that is easily applied over to both old oil and acrylic paint, and which will take a acrylic topcoat: this is for baseboards and doors. Some of these are not stripped all the way down, example some baseboards are still somewhat heavy with paint (and likely lead paint) and I want to get a good primer build and smooth it out just a little bit.<br />
<br />
OK, Rant off.<br />
<br />
Any suggestions?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Lovegasoline</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/zinsser-cover-stain-sucks-57580/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>re: para paint brand</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/re-para-paint-brand-57578/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:28:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Para paint is a relatively large company in canada, they are sold at many paint stores here 
does anyone have any experience with this brand?  I have never used it 
any thoughts 
-g</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Para paint is a relatively large company in canada, they are sold at many paint stores here<br />
does anyone have any experience with this brand?  I have never used it<br />
any thoughts<br />
-g</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>gramps416</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/re-para-paint-brand-57578/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Self-priming ceiling paint?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/self-priming-ceiling-paint-57523/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:50:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just got finished building my new garage (something I have been waiting for for a long time).  I want to paint the drywall ceiling and in the essence of time, would like to use a self-priming paint.  I noticed Zinsser Perma-White eggshell and Ben Moore Muresco claim to be self-priming on new...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I just got finished building my new garage (something I have been waiting for for a long time).  I want to paint the drywall ceiling and in the essence of time, would like to use a self-priming paint.  I noticed Zinsser Perma-White eggshell and Ben Moore Muresco claim to be self-priming on new drywall.  Has anyone had success using 2 coats of paint only on new drywall?  In my home I would absolutely prime and 2 coats of paint but I'm not as picky for a garage ceiling.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>slickracer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/self-priming-ceiling-paint-57523/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Making paint look like stain</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/making-paint-look-like-stain-57432/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:44:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a wall with pine plank paneling. All the other walls are painted. I would like to use a darker shade of the wall color to use like a stain on the planks. I was thinking I could dilute the paint (a semigloss dark green color) with an amount of water and use a rag to rub the paint mixture into...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a wall with pine plank paneling. All the other walls are painted. I would like to use a darker shade of the wall color to use like a stain on the planks. I was thinking I could dilute the paint (a semigloss dark green color) with an amount of water and use a rag to rub the paint mixture into the wood, wiping  most of it off with a damp rag. The next step I would do would be to coat the dry result with a water based urethane so it would preserve the effect and make it easy to clean.<br />
<br />
Am I headed in the right direction? I realize there are green stains available and I know how to apply and finish them. This is not my question. I would like to know if the method I describe above will work and what I can do to make this a successful finish that will look like the wood was stained a darker shade of the room color and be easy to clean. It may not look exactly like a stain, but if the grain of the wood and the knots show through, I think it would look very nice.<br />
<br />
Thank you for any thoughts or advice on this.<br />
<br />
Jim</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Jim McClain</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/making-paint-look-like-stain-57432/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Aluminum Siding</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/aluminum-siding-57405/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:35:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The house I bought has aluminum siding that is chalking and oxidizing in a lot of areas. I have done a lot of research on painting aluminum siding, washing down the aluminum to get rid of chalking, using a good oil based primer, and using acrylic for the top coat. I really want to use a sprayer on...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The house I bought has aluminum siding that is chalking and oxidizing in a lot of areas. I have done a lot of research on painting aluminum siding, washing down the aluminum to get rid of chalking, using a good oil based primer, and using acrylic for the top coat. I really want to use a sprayer on the house but I live in the city and the houses are just to close together for my comfort so I will most likely roll it on. <br />
<br />
My question is time, I just don't think when Spring rolls around that I can get enough time and good weather to do the whole house in one shot. Would it be ok to prime and paint the house a section at a time? The reason I ask is because I wasn't sure if different weather conditions might cause the paint to dry slightly different causing color variations.<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>FlyingChampCar</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/aluminum-siding-57405/</guid>
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			<title>Painting over wood furniture</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-over-wood-furniture-57379/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:50:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have some old, cheap wood furniture that I would like to update by painting over it with some espresso colored paint.  After I rough sand it, should I kilz it and then just paint it?  What type of paint should I use; satin, semi-gloss, etc.?  Also, I'm having trouble finding espresso colored...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have some old, cheap wood furniture that I would like to update by painting over it with some espresso colored paint.  After I rough sand it, should I kilz it and then just paint it?  What type of paint should I use; satin, semi-gloss, etc.?  Also, I'm having trouble finding espresso colored paint.  Any recommendations?  Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>woody1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-over-wood-furniture-57379/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Painting over existing finished trim/railing?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-over-existing-finished-trim-railing-57371/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:23:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Currently all the baseboard trim, window trim, stair trim, and railings in my upstairs are the cheap oak look with a shiny clear finish to them.  I just finished the basement with all painted white trim and doors.   
  
Can I just prime/paint white over all the upstairs trim/railings?  Does it need...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Currently all the baseboard trim, window trim, stair trim, and railings in my upstairs are the cheap oak look with a shiny clear finish to them.  I just finished the basement with all painted white trim and doors.  <br />
 <br />
Can I just prime/paint white over all the upstairs trim/railings?  Does it need to be sanded down first?  I would like to do it without removing if possible.<br />
<br />
 <br />
Thanks.  I really dont want to replace all the trim/railings......</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>tigerbalm2424</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/painting-over-existing-finished-trim-railing-57371/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Tape drywall joints before painting?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/tape-drywall-joints-before-painting-57366/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:21:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, this is sort of painting question but also a drywall question. Just bought our first home, it's about 50 years old. We've started by removing all the wallpaper from one room. The drywall joints are not taped instead they are filled with what looks to be plaster of paris they seem hard and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, this is sort of painting question but also a drywall question. Just bought our first home, it's about 50 years old. We've started by removing all the wallpaper from one room. The drywall joints are not taped instead they are filled with what looks to be plaster of paris they seem hard and smoothe but if I don't tape them and cover them with joint compund before I seal/prime/paint will I get hairline cracks down the wall?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>mcraenz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/tape-drywall-joints-before-painting-57366/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>spray tip leaks</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/spray-tip-leaks-57364/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:51:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What are some possible causes of my airless spray gun splattering after I release the trigger. The tip is very clean. I used it to prime and then i tried to spray with a high gloss paint and it leaked after trigger release. I used it before with satin exterior with no problems. I heard the high...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What are some possible causes of my airless spray gun splattering after I release the trigger. The tip is very clean. I used it to prime and then i tried to spray with a high gloss paint and it leaked after trigger release. I used it before with satin exterior with no problems. I heard the high gloss paint can cause that but I am not sure. Any advice would be appreciated.<br />
Mark</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>mcl6302</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/spray-tip-leaks-57364/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>acrylic paint</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/acrylic-paint-57319/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:04:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What can I use to remove acrylic paint from a bathroom sink? 
  
Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What can I use to remove acrylic paint from a bathroom sink?<br />
 <br />
Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>mommafrye</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/acrylic-paint-57319/</guid>
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