<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title><![CDATA[DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Building & Construction]]></title>
		<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 01:34:01 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title><![CDATA[DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Building & Construction]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Rotted window frame bottom: Do I need to replace the whole window?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotted-window-frame-bottom-do-i-need-replace-whole-window-80613/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:21:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>This is my first post here and I hope to learn many things on this site.... 
  
The bottom of a basement window frame is rotten. Completely. I was almost able to take the rotten wood out completely with my vaccum. It came out in bits and pieces. 
  
I put in a 2 X 2 for the moment to hold the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This is my first post here and I hope to learn many things on this site....<br />
 <br />
The bottom of a basement window frame is rotten. Completely. I was almost able to take the rotten wood out completely with my vaccum. It came out in bits and pieces.<br />
 <br />
I put in a 2 X 2 for the moment to hold the window in place. <br />
 <br />
The side and upper frame are ok.<br />
 <br />
My question is this: Can I repair this by putting a 2 X 4 under the window and foam insulation? The window sits in the cement opening of the foundation. Would I need to take the whole window out, frame and all to do this?<br />
 <br />
Or should I just call a window company and replace the whole thing?<br />
 <br />
It is a basement window and is covered in snow most winters for many months. It is below ground level and there is a drain in front of it. One winter the drain was frozen solid and we had major rain fall. The only way for the water to go was through the sides of the window and inside the basement...:(<br />
 <br />
I have owned this house for 10 years and it is the only time I had water coming in through that window. But I have a feeling this probably happened to previous owners as well. <br />
 <br />
If I replace the window, should I go for a window frame that is not wood?<br />
 <br />
I am a bit overwhelmed by this. Any help is greatly appreciated!!<br />
 <br />
Ginette</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Ginette</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotted-window-frame-bottom-do-i-need-replace-whole-window-80613/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>HUGE wall framing ooops!</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/huge-wall-framing-ooops-80603/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 21:10:58 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The structure is a 24'x40' single story 2"x6" framed structure on a slab. Think garage. 
There is a 16'x7' RO for a large patio slider going in. 
The walls were raised and all looked right. At some point the bottom plate must have moved on one end of the RO for the slider and it is 1/4 inch out of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The structure is a 24'x40' single story 2&quot;x6&quot; framed structure on a slab. Think garage.<br />
There is a 16'x7' RO for a large patio slider going in.<br />
The walls were raised and all looked right. At some point the bottom plate must have moved on one end of the RO for the slider and it is 1/4 inch out of position with the opposite side. Unfortunately it got bolted down in this position.<br />
Any advice?<br />
Will this make putting the slider in impossible?<br />
Any cures?<br />
Any magic potions and chants?<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>morpho</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/huge-wall-framing-ooops-80603/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Adding Collar Ties to make a ceiling</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/adding-collar-ties-make-ceiling-80602/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 21:06:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi everyone, 
  
We have a large room, about 36 feet wide inside, by about 12 tall, and we'd like to make a regular flat ceiling at 9', instead of a peaked ceiling with exposed collar ties. Now, in this room we had three dormers installed, each with double trimmer rafters and double header at top...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everyone,<br />
 <br />
We have a large room, about 36 feet wide inside, by about 12 tall, and we'd like to make a regular flat ceiling at 9', instead of a peaked ceiling with exposed collar ties. Now, in this room we had three dormers installed, each with double trimmer rafters and double header at top and bottom, with hangers on the top rafters to top header. The side of the room with the dormers has a 4+' knee wall, and under the dormers we doubled up the studs of the knee wall at the corners.<br />
 <br />
My first question is, is there any issue with adding the extra weight of the ceiling? The collar ties right now sit at about 9' already, although they are all of a slightly different height--some as much as 9.5' high. It is about in the upper 1/3 of the roof, so is that high enough not to be an issue with the extra weight on the existing rafters?<br />
 <br />
Secondly, one of the issues I have is the house wasn't framed perfectly. To me, and a few other carpenters who have checked it out, the birdsmouth on the main roof rafters is a bit small. So, I originally thought that adding the extra ties at 9' (I was planning 2x6 ties; 2x10's are what's there right now) would serve to prevent the roof from spreading even more, and therefore help make up for the original poor work. But a little research tells me that the collar ties are only for uplift at the ridge, not spreading; 1/3 height rafter ties serve that function. So my question is, is this really the case? Would adding extra collar ties up top (at 9' in a 12' ceiling or so) really do nothing in terms of further preventing the possibility of spreading?<br />
 <br />
Would the knee wall I have be helping all of this, though? Perhaps I should go and reinforce the whole knee wall as well, adding double studs throughout. Even though the knee wall doesn't land on the lead bearing I-beam in the garage below (it just sits on the 2x12 joists below), should I perhaps add some sort of pulins to the bottom plate of the knee wall (maybe with some strongback on top)--or would this serve no function really, if not attached to something directly bearing below?<br />
 <br />
Any advice is appreciated. <br />
 <br />
Thanks,<br />
Joe</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Joe1.</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/adding-collar-ties-make-ceiling-80602/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>How to raise a garage floor to match house floor</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-raise-garage-floor-match-house-floor-80556/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 04:53:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a 12' wall that I want to "bump out" to make a pantry style closet about 16" deep.  The other side of the wall is the attached garage.  I need to know what to do to raise the garage floor to match the house floor.  I'm thinking of using a floor leveler mix to make sure the floor is level...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 12' wall that I want to &quot;bump out&quot; to make a pantry style closet about 16&quot; deep.  The other side of the wall is the attached garage.  I need to know what to do to raise the garage floor to match the house floor.  I'm thinking of using a floor leveler mix to make sure the floor is level first.  Then onto green treated lumber? to make floor joists.  I would need a maximum strength design, just incase someday that closet becomes part of the room.  Also how to properly measure to allow for sub floor, underlayment and whatever else I have to consider.  I need step by step!  /Jeannie</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>jlgenz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-raise-garage-floor-match-house-floor-80556/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Should I fix this?  (structural question)</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/should-i-fix-structural-question-80547/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 01:26:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Ok, maybe the right question is not "should I", because I already know the answer to that.  What I'm really wondering is "do I have to"... 
 
Today I set out to replace my patio door, thinking it would be a quick 1-day project and I'd still have the rest of my weekend free.  When I removed the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok, maybe the right question is not &quot;should I&quot;, because I already know the answer to that.  What I'm really wondering is &quot;do I have to&quot;...<br />
<br />
Today I set out to replace my patio door, thinking it would be a quick 1-day project and I'd still have the rest of my weekend free.  When I removed the existing door frame, I noticed that one of the 2x10's used in the double 2x10 header is badly split.  See pictures below.  The split runs the entire length of the header, but it's the worst in the middle (about 1/4&quot; gap).  I'm pretty sure it runs top to bottom also, since in the middle of the span the &quot;outer half&quot; of the 2x10 is about 1/8&quot; lower than the &quot;inner half&quot;.  This header is in the exterior wall that runs perpendicular to the joists and rafters, so I think it's supporting a pretty big load,  There's 1 full floor + 1/2 attic above it.<br />
<br />
The house is 32 years old and still standing.  So, I'm wondering, is this just normal settling that took place in the first few years after the house was built, and has since stabilized?  Or, will it continue to get worse if neglected?<br />
<br />
I've replaced headers before so I think I can handle it.  Normally I'm pretty adamant about doing things right.  However, this will probably take me a full day, and I have a pretty long honey-do list as it is.  I'd rather not do it unless it's really necessary.<br />
<br />
Can anyone offer some advice?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Mark</div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Thumbnails</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			
<a href="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24508d1283649687-should-i-fix-structural-question-img_5600.jpg" rel="Lightbox_496029" id="attachment24508" target="_blank"><img class="thumbnail" src="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24508d1283649687t-should-i-fix-structural-question-img_5600.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5600.JPG
Views:	N/A
Size:	78.4 KB
ID:	24508" /></a>
&nbsp;

<a href="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24509d1283649704-should-i-fix-structural-question-img_5602.jpg" rel="Lightbox_496029" id="attachment24509" target="_blank"><img class="thumbnail" src="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24509d1283649704t-should-i-fix-structural-question-img_5602.jpg" border="0" alt="Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5602.JPG
Views:	N/A
Size:	50.1 KB
ID:	24509" /></a>
&nbsp;

			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>cumak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/should-i-fix-structural-question-80547/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Blow in insulation.  Identify asbestos.  30s-50s</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/blow-insulation-identify-asbestos-30s-50s-80544/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 01:08:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am working on a house that is said to be "built" in the mid 50s.  I know for a fact that the house was moved here so I think it might have been built previous and the county recorded it as 50s when it was placed.  In any case, I am working in the attic and the insulation definitely is NOT...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am working on a house that is said to be &quot;built&quot; in the mid 50s.  I know for a fact that the house was moved here so I think it might have been built previous and the county recorded it as 50s when it was placed.  In any case, I am working in the attic and the insulation definitely is NOT fiberglass.  Act very much like shreaded cardboard if you ask me.  particles become airborn very easy.  It is light brown just like cardboard.  It does not really cling together but rather just acts more like cellulose.  Just clumpy.  <br />
<br />
<br />
Is there a good way to tell if it contains asbestos and how much exposure do you need to have major health problems?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>viper</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/blow-insulation-identify-asbestos-30s-50s-80544/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>adding workspace addition to a gable style garage</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/adding-workspace-addition-gable-style-garage-80533/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 23:13:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i am planning on adding an addition onto my garage. it is a 20x40 gable roof garage. first off how would i go about adding a lean to style addition on the side. it looks like an 8 pitch roof and i would like to make the addition probably a 2 pitch. extended out about 10/12 feet. should i somehow...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i am planning on adding an addition onto my garage. it is a 20x40 gable roof garage. first off how would i go about adding a lean to style addition on the side. it looks like an 8 pitch roof and i would like to make the addition probably a 2 pitch. extended out about 10/12 feet. should i somehow add rafters beneath the soffit since i want to put a metal roof on it or should i tear up some of the roof and add trusses? could anyone give me some ideas on what i should do and then what to do after the fact?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>builderzone</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/adding-workspace-addition-gable-style-garage-80533/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>building a window well covering</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/building-window-well-covering-80518/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 19:06:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>any photos or ideas or plans?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>any photos or ideas or plans?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Wayne M.</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/building-window-well-covering-80518/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>wall board</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/wall-board-80513/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 18:22:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>`just installed new slick finish wall board. how do i get glue off the front</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>`just installed new slick finish wall board. how do i get glue off the front</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Denise1961</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/wall-board-80513/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Floor replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/floor-replacement-80510/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:28:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We are getting differenct opinions on how to reconstruct a floor in our church. If we put two layers of flooring (sub floor and then flooring) directloy over the subfloor do we want a moisture barrier between the two. Half the contractors want to do a moisture barrier and the other half say it will...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We are getting differenct opinions on how to reconstruct a floor in our church. If we put two layers of flooring (sub floor and then flooring) directloy over the subfloor do we want a moisture barrier between the two. Half the contractors want to do a moisture barrier and the other half say it will rout the subfloor and begin to smell musty. This is, of course a wood floor over a crawl space.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>graham johnson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/floor-replacement-80510/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Patio slab question</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/patio-slab-question-80509/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:15:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am the 2nd owner of our house which was built in 1997. *The Patio Slab was not graded correctly causing pooling underneath the concrete slab plugging the drain tile. *I get a small amount of water leaking where the basement wall meets the basement floor on medium to big rainstorms. *We have lived...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am the 2nd owner of our house which was built in 1997. *The Patio Slab was not graded correctly causing pooling underneath the concrete slab plugging the drain tile. *I get a small amount of water leaking where the basement wall meets the basement floor on medium to big rainstorms. *We have lived there for 5 years but it been more consistent over the last 2 yrs. *This is happening in 1 area only.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>dinosaur1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/patio-slab-question-80509/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Need help replacing screens in windows</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/need-help-replacing-screens-windows-80507/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:02:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey all 
  
I have some rather unusual screens in the windows of my home. they arnt the traditional pop out the screen frame, replace screen and pop back in to place. 
  
i cant figure out how to take the screen frame out, if its even possible. 
  
i can see the rubber seal cord that holds the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey all<br />
 <br />
I have some rather unusual screens in the windows of my home. they arnt the traditional pop out the screen frame, replace screen and pop back in to place.<br />
 <br />
i cant figure out how to take the screen frame out, if its even possible.<br />
 <br />
i can see the rubber seal cord that holds the screen in place on 3 sides. the bottom side of the screen seems to be enclosed by a piece of aluminum. cant figure out how to expose it WITHOUT bending the screen frame all up.<br />
 <br />
can anyone tell me how to replace my screens?<br />
 <br />
if it helps, the windows came with the house, built in 1994.<br />
 <br />
i am attaching some photos of the window. hopefully it helps. <br />
 <br />
window 1 is the overall shot of the window. <br />
 <br />
window 2 is the lower left of the window. if you look close, you can see the rubber seal on the left, the bottom has nothing cause it dissapears into the frame.<br />
 <br />
window 3 is the upper right corner. if you also notice you can see the black rubber seal on the top/right of the window<br />
 <br />
if you need additional photos, let me know and i will post them</div>


	<br />
	<div style="padding:6px">

	

	
		<fieldset class="fieldset">
			<legend>Attached Images</legend>
			<div style="padding:3px">
			<img class="attach" src="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24494d1283619542-need-help-replacing-screens-windows-window-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24495d1283619551-need-help-replacing-screens-windows-window-2.jpg" border="0" alt="" />&nbsp;<img class="attach" src="http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f19/24496d1283619557-need-help-replacing-screens-windows-window-3.jpg" border="0" alt="" />&nbsp;
			</div>
		</fieldset>
	

	

	

	</div>
]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>reds_21</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/need-help-replacing-screens-windows-80507/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>tannin stains on cedar deck</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/tannin-stains-cedar-deck-80502/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:20:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How do I get rid of and further prevent tannin stains on my deck after it rains?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How do I get rid of and further prevent tannin stains on my deck after it rains?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>springlakediy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/tannin-stains-cedar-deck-80502/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rotted mud plate</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotted-mud-plate-80499/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 16:04:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>First Post:  Noticed some form of dust/debris around the kitchen sink window.  I removed the siding and saw rotted wood.  I decided to check the rest of the wall and removed all the siding.  The floor plate and mud sill are also rotted in spots.  Will need to replace all of it.  I am thinking of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>First Post:  Noticed some form of dust/debris around the kitchen sink window.  I removed the siding and saw rotted wood.  I decided to check the rest of the wall and removed all the siding.  The floor plate and mud sill are also rotted in spots.  Will need to replace all of it.  I am thinking of using an 12 ft 4x6 and 3 jacks and just working my way down the length of the house, replacing it as I go.  WILL this be OK?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>doug branum</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotted-mud-plate-80499/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>tuck point a inside decaying chimney base</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/tuck-point-inside-decaying-chimney-base-80488/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:18:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My chimney is spalling at the bottom. It runs straight through the middle of the house which is three story's high not counting the basement.  I have done brick work in the past for a living.The chimney has been rapped with parsing some time in the past by someone.It cracked and that is how i...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My chimney is spalling at the bottom. It runs straight through the middle of the house which is three story's high not counting the basement.  I have done brick work in the past for a living.The chimney has been rapped with parsing some time in the past by someone.It cracked and that is how i discovered it. It is mainly on one side,but the other side is not too bad.The bad side is spalling up to about thirty inches. I want to tuck point it,but am not sure how much i can take out at one time without it collapsing.The rest of the chimney is like in new condition.I am sure i need to use type n mortar.Please if any one out there can give me advice on this it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.I forgot to mention I looked inside the chimney and it looks like the inner wall is in good shape. Thanks again.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>ezj001</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/tuck-point-inside-decaying-chimney-base-80488/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
