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		<title><![CDATA[DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Building & Construction]]></title>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:29:16 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title><![CDATA[DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Building & Construction]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
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			<title>old chimney, many cracks</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/old-chimney-many-cracks-57623/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:12:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[The mortar on my grandmother's chimney atop her house is cracking just about all over.  As a result there is a leak into the house.  The obvious fix is to replace it, but I don't have the money.  Being an old furnace chimney that used to heat the house, it is no longer in use.  Is it possible to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The mortar on my grandmother's chimney atop her house is cracking just about all over.  As a result there is a leak into the house.  The obvious fix is to replace it, but I don't have the money.  Being an old furnace chimney that used to heat the house, it is no longer in use.  Is it possible to just chuck some wire around it and concrete over it?  Or cover it over another way?  What should I do?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[Fixingranny's]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/old-chimney-many-cracks-57623/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>How to mark oval hole for flue penetration</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-mark-oval-hole-flue-penetration-57621/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:52:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sealing a ceiling penetration for a hot water heater flue on a slanted ceiling.  What's the easiest tip/trick for transferring the measurement for a round flue pipe onto the sheet metal, where the cutout will have to be an oval due to the slant of the ceiling?   
 
I know there has to be an easy...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sealing a ceiling penetration for a hot water heater flue on a slanted ceiling.  What's the easiest tip/trick for transferring the measurement for a round flue pipe onto the sheet metal, where the cutout will have to be an oval due to the slant of the ceiling?  <br />
<br />
I know there has to be an easy way to do this!  And I'm sure it will work better and get a tighter fit than my trial and error method would!  <br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>akguy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-mark-oval-hole-flue-penetration-57621/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Welding advice ?? Any welders out there ?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/welding-advice-any-welders-out-there-57620/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:35:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>As some of you may know from my other post, I have been battling a post in my basement. The proposed engineer approved solution is to support the existing beam by welding 2 pieces of channel steel along the length of the existing beam. So I have ordered 2  C9 X 13.4 pieces of channel.  
  
The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As some of you may know from my other post, I have been battling a post in my basement. The proposed engineer approved solution is to support the existing beam by welding 2 pieces of channel steel along the length of the existing beam. So I have ordered 2  C9 X 13.4 pieces of channel. <br />
 <br />
The design calls for tack welds for every 12 inches.<br />
The beam is an I beam which is 8 inches high.<br />
 <br />
My question is I have a welder, Lincoln Electric 20 amp 120 v unit and I'm prepared to do the welding myself. Would this welder be sufficient to do the job ?<br />
 <br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Dave</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Dave Clee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/welding-advice-any-welders-out-there-57620/</guid>
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			<title>removable walls</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/removable-walls-57618/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:17:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I currently don't have a shop space so I am using my covered back porch.  At the moment I have just few enough tools that I can keep them completely out of the weather, but I am picking up a table saw today so I need to find a better way to keep the elements away from my tools. 
I used to work at a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I currently don't have a shop space so I am using my covered back porch.  At the moment I have just few enough tools that I can keep them completely out of the weather, but I am picking up a table saw today so I need to find a better way to keep the elements away from my tools.<br />
I used to work at a children's museum fabricating exhibits.  While I was there I learned how to make 4X8 wall sections that would lock together but could easily be taken down and stored.  Basically you frame a 4X8 section with horizontal studs every 36&quot; then put some sort of skin on one or both sides depending on the application.  I was thinking this would work very well for in may case.  My question is what wood will hold up best to the weather?  Cost is an issue so I'm hoping the answer will be OSB.  The walls will most likely have to hold up for about a year until I can dig out and build a basement under my house.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Dr. Awsome</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/removable-walls-57618/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>What trpe of insulation for basement rim joist?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/what-trpe-insulation-basement-rim-joist-57612/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:41:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I want to insulate around the rim joist in my basement, above the foundation. What is the proper type of insulation for this area? Faced or Unfaced? I about moisture getting trapped in between the paper and rim joist if I used faced. Is this something I should be worried about? 
 
I prefer faced to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to insulate around the rim joist in my basement, above the foundation. What is the proper type of insulation for this area? Faced or Unfaced? I about moisture getting trapped in between the paper and rim joist if I used faced. Is this something I should be worried about?<br />
<br />
I prefer faced to unfaced insulation since it's safer/easier to handle, if it doesn't pose a moisture problem.<br />
<br />
Is exposed fiberglass insulation up around the top of the basement wall hazardous, assuming nobody touches it?<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>secutanudu</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Repairing concrete mortar siding with exposed crushed rock</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/repairing-concrete-mortar-siding-exposed-crushed-rock-57596/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:05:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Could anyone offer suggestions as to where I might purchase 3/8" washed crushed rock for repairing damaged areas (and corners) of my old painted concrete mortar siding which has exposed crushed rock stuck throughout siding? Is the mortar mix the same as brick mortar? Any help would be much...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Could anyone offer suggestions as to where I might purchase 3/8&quot; washed crushed rock for repairing damaged areas (and corners) of my old painted concrete mortar siding which has exposed crushed rock stuck throughout siding? Is the mortar mix the same as brick mortar? Any help would be much appreciated. Ray</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>bridgerunner</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/repairing-concrete-mortar-siding-exposed-crushed-rock-57596/</guid>
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			<title>garage door replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/garage-door-replacement-57589/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:12:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi guys, this is my first post on this board.  Hi to everyone and thanks for having such a great forum. 
 
My house was built in the early 1980s.  One of the two springs on my spring-assisted garage door system is broken.  It is a system such that the entire door opens at once rather than folding...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi guys, this is my first post on this board.  Hi to everyone and thanks for having such a great forum.<br />
<br />
My house was built in the early 1980s.  One of the two springs on my spring-assisted garage door system is broken.  It is a system such that the entire door opens at once rather than folding like the newer counterpart.  The springs are in tension when door is closed and contract to help the opener during operation.<br />
<br />
Instead of replacing the spring, I am going to replace it all together.  Where should I shop for garage doors and should this be something left to the &quot;professionals&quot; ?  I am somewhat confident that this would be an easy do it yourself project.  Please give me advice on WHERE to buy garage doors, and if i should tackle this myself.  thanks and have a good weekend everyone.  :thumbsup:<br />
<br />
Hoang</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>hoang</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/garage-door-replacement-57589/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>How about to build a wood path?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-about-build-wood-path-57587/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:29:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I want to build a wood path from front door to back door for my customers (I have a home business). Do anybody know if I need to apply for a permit for this job? Does that consider as a deck? It's very low to the ground.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to build a wood path from front door to back door for my customers (I have a home business). Do anybody know if I need to apply for a permit for this job? Does that consider as a deck? It's very low to the ground.<br />
<a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;ct=res&amp;cd=7&amp;ved=0CC0QFjAG&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hyrs.com.cn%2Fjob%2F2877562548.html&amp;rct=j&amp;q=%E5%AE%A2%E6%88%B7+%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87&amp;ei=BvAFS5TCGIzIMcH1ubgK&amp;usg=AFQjCNGpQxqIoruNa6XQnNzWT7tzuZh7jw&amp;sig2=G3LuRLLQi7XSvZkRFpHLfQ" target="_blank"> <br />
 </a></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>dianachen</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-about-build-wood-path-57587/</guid>
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			<title>Could I use MDF to reproduce exterior wood siding?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/could-i-use-mdf-reproduce-exterior-wood-siding-57586/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:18:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Rookie question maybe....  :( 
 
But the high content of non-biological additives (and low price) have pushed me to ask you guys: 
 
Would it be a good/Bad idea to reproduce some damaged exterior wood siding in MDF?  Ripped, Routered and coated in a good ext. paint. 
 
I googled and all I could...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Rookie question maybe....  :(<br />
<br />
But the high content of non-biological additives (and low price) have pushed me to ask you guys:<br />
<br />
Would it be a good/Bad idea to reproduce some damaged exterior wood siding in MDF?  Ripped, Routered and coated in a good ext. paint.<br />
<br />
I googled and all I could find was a comparison between different types of MDF. Not a &quot;fiberboard Vs. real wood&quot; comparo.<br />
<br />
* Here's some of that info in case anyone is interested (or can tell the wood content of the MDF you are buying?)<br />
Good Luck: :huh:  <a href="http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Decay_and_termite_resistance_of_medium_density_fib.html" target="_blank">http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...nsity_fib.html</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Main Question - Can painted MDF stand up to exterior use?<br />
</b><br />
<br />
Thanks for any info guys!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>1forest1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/could-i-use-mdf-reproduce-exterior-wood-siding-57586/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Touch n' Foam (spray) 'Pro System' - good product?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/touch-n-foam-spray-pro-system-good-product-57584/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:59:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, 
 
Anyone know of this DIY spray foam product?  It's Touch N' Foam brand, and while they do have regular disposable cans (like Great Stuff), they also have a 'Pro System', using cylinder and 2-component systems, with coverage (per system purchased) ranging from 15 board feet (1.25 cubic...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
Anyone know of this DIY spray foam product?  It's Touch N' Foam brand, and while they do have regular disposable cans (like Great Stuff), they also have a 'Pro System', using cylinder and 2-component systems, with coverage (per system purchased) ranging from 15 board feet (1.25 cubic feet) to 600 board feet.<br />
<br />
I'm interested in the 15 system, to use in a project where I'm foaming in many pieces of rigid insulation to the bottom of cantilevered floor joist bays (to air seal)....  But wanted to see if it's a good product/system first.   Anyone have feedback on it, good or bad?  <br />
<br />
Apparently it has a preattached hose and applicator wand, epands 30x, has a claimed R7.12/in., and cures in under a minute.  You can use it over the course of a few weeks I was told (vs. the single-use scenario w/ cans) -- there's some way to cap and reuse?  Runs $29.99 for the Pro 15 system here in Anchorage, AK.  The product info. also claims it &quot;offers controlled linear dispensing for larger projects&quot; -- which seems to fit my bill, with the amount of 'seam-sealing' I'll be doing (foaming boards to joist walls, and along other wood seams in the subfloor cavity).<br />
<br />
[Side question -- if this has a 30x expansion rate, does anyone know how that compares to the Great Stuff line -- would that be similar to the red can for Gaps/Cracks, or the Big Gaps one?  I'm hoping this Touch n' Foam won't be 'overkill' for my situation....]<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any 'reviews' or tips you might have for this system (for a new-to-the-DIY-world gal),<br />
Katie</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>KatieAK</dc:creator>
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			<title>Correct wood for exterior handrail?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/correct-wood-exterior-handrail-57575/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:55:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a small balcony that needs the wood rail cap replaced (I guess that's what you call it). It is badly deteriorated. 
  
I was thinking about just replacing it with douglas fir, primed and painted. I was experimenting awhile with different woods for exterior gates and fences, and I wasn't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a small balcony that needs the wood rail cap replaced (I guess that's what you call it). It is badly deteriorated.<br />
 <br />
I was thinking about just replacing it with douglas fir, primed and painted. I was experimenting awhile with different woods for exterior gates and fences, and I wasn't happy. For example, I built a gate out of redwood, but then learned if it was not heartwood (all deep red) then it wasn't much good.<br />
 <br />
Also I hear cedar is the same, if it's not all heartwood it's not much better than douglas fir.<br />
 <br />
Anyone have their opinion on this.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>darsunt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/correct-wood-exterior-handrail-57575/</guid>
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			<title>How to repair vertical wood siding?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-repair-vertical-wood-siding-57571/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:41:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have some walls surrounding a balcony that are made of vertical wood siding. Some of the siding is severely damaged with wood rot, and I was wondering how to go about it. 
  
I would like to replace just the damaged pieces, but vertical siding is tongue and groove on both sides, correct? How can...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have some walls surrounding a balcony that are made of vertical wood siding. Some of the siding is severely damaged with wood rot, and I was wondering how to go about it.<br />
 <br />
I would like to replace just the damaged pieces, but vertical siding is tongue and groove on both sides, correct? How can you remove and insert damaged pieces?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>darsunt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-repair-vertical-wood-siding-57571/</guid>
		</item>
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			<title>High Ceiling</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/high-ceiling-57550/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:28:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I have a high ceiling and most of my heat from my furnace is up there and down below where we walk and sit around is little cooler. What can I do in the way of simple solution? I could turn the ceiling fan on, but it will run even when my furnace is not running. That will cool the living...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I have a high ceiling and most of my heat from my furnace is up there and down below where we walk and sit around is little cooler. What can I do in the way of simple solution? I could turn the ceiling fan on, but it will run even when my furnace is not running. That will cool the living space and we don't want that especially during winter time.<br />
<br />
thanks in advance,</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>diy4life</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/high-ceiling-57550/</guid>
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			<title>Furnance question.</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/furnance-question-57549/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:24:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*That i completed I have Furnance question* 			 			 			 		  		 		 Okay, I have completed my basement project as much as possible and it definitely made a big difference in the comfort level. But now I have a question about my furnance. 
 
Now, that I have completely blocked all the gaps and cracks...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>That i completed I have Furnance question</b> 			 			 			 		  		 		 Okay, I have completed my basement project as much as possible and it definitely made a big difference in the comfort level. But now I have a question about my furnance.<br />
<br />
Now, that I have completely blocked all the gaps and cracks in my basement walls and at the rim joists, there is hardly any fresh or outside air coming into my basement. Then, doesn't my 80% furnance need outside air to burn gas more efficiently? There is no fresh air intake for my furnance. What I have been doing is opening one of my tiny rectangluar glass window just slightly enough to let some air into the basement for my furnance. But people I talk to tell me that I don't need to do that and that I already have air in the house to heat and circulate. I may look dumb (LOL), but I learned in my science class that fire needs fuel, oxygen and heat to burn at its best. If my furnance burns off most or all oxygen in my basement, how is it going to burn natural gas. Also, that if you seal all your cracks and gaps, there won't be air in the basement for the furnance byproduct, carbon monoxide (CO), to run out the chimney. Instead, the negative pressure will pull outside air through the chimney and flood CO into your house. <br />
<br />
I am baffled. What is the real soultion? Please, help. This is my first time owning a home. So, I am learning as I go.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>diy4life</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/furnance-question-57549/</guid>
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			<title>how much does concrete weigh?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-much-does-concrete-weigh-57537/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:58:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I know there are a lot of variables but I am only looking for some approximations for a general mix concrete. 
 
What I  need to do is figure out how much cured concrete I have to put in my PU truck for winter weight. Normally I toss in about 15 feet of ~10" I-beam but that is causing damage to the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I know there are a lot of variables but I am only looking for some approximations for a general mix concrete.<br />
<br />
What I  need to do is figure out how much cured concrete I have to put in my PU truck for winter weight. Normally I toss in about 15 feet of ~10&quot; I-beam but that is causing damage to the bed. I can pour a block of concrete with re-bar in it  that fits the floor shape well with a loop included so I can remove it with a tractor or winch when I want. That way the block would not move much plus with tie downs, I could secure it as well if needed. That just wasn't practical to do with the I-beams.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>nap</dc:creator>
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