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		<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Remodeling</title>
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			<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Remodeling</title>
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			<title>Started gutting my bathroom today...</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/started-gutting-my-bathroom-today-57594/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:51:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
 
My name Rick and this is my first post here.  I have been taking on bigger & bigger projects since i purchased my "handyman special" in May and am taking on biggest challenge yet!   
 
So, to make a long story short, I needed to replace a broken exhaust fan, and ended up deciding to go for a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
My name Rick and this is my first post here.  I have been taking on bigger &amp; bigger projects since i purchased my &quot;handyman special&quot; in May and am taking on biggest challenge yet!  <br />
<br />
So, to make a long story short, I needed to replace a broken exhaust fan, and ended up deciding to go for a &quot;partial&quot; gut job instead. <br />
<br />
Most of my questions are about the existing structure and what can be used.<br />
<br />
1) The exhaust fan is located in a soffit right above the shower (probably why it broke) and was vented out the side of the house.  I would like to get rid of the soffit and move the fan to the center of the room through the ceiling.  Is there a way to re-route the flexible tubing through the attic and use the old vent or do I need to create a completely new vent out through the roof?               <br />
<br />
2) The floor tile is in good shape and I plan on just re-grouting it. The sheet-rock on the ceiling and walls are also in very good shape and look practically new (maybe they were protected by the wall paper that was on there?). The wall tile has taken a beating though (too much mildew because of the broken exhaust) and covers the entire shower, the soffit above the shower, and runs around the entire bathroom at about 3 1/2 feet high.  Can I demo just the &quot;tiled&quot; sheet-rock tile and keep the remaining sheet-rock?     <br />
<br />
I'm sure these are just my initial questions.  Any help would be appreciated!<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Rick</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>Mantaray14</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/started-gutting-my-bathroom-today-57594/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Installing a Gas Line for a Jen-Aire....</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/installing-gas-line-jen-aire-57556/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:26:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have an Electric Jen-Aire Cook Top that I would like to replace with a new Gas Jen-Aire Cook Top. It is located on and Interior Island within our kitchen about 8' in from an exterior wall. I have a slab concrete floor, is there any way to run a gas line in thru the Jen-Aire Down Draft Vent Chase...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an Electric Jen-Aire Cook Top that I would like to replace with a new Gas Jen-Aire Cook Top. It is located on and Interior Island within our kitchen about 8' in from an exterior wall. I have a slab concrete floor, is there any way to run a gas line in thru the Jen-Aire Down Draft Vent Chase from the outside of my house. Note; my Gas Meter is about 15' from the Vent opening. Any help or ideas on this would be great. Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>LAHKATY</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/installing-gas-line-jen-aire-57556/</guid>
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			<title>Large drywall patches - best way to fix?  Screw them to what?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/large-drywall-patches-best-way-fix-screw-them-what-57483/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:29:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello,  
 
I've had to patch some large areas of drywall after a bathroom and kitchen remodel.   Essentially, the 30-year-old drywall had crumbled at the base, or there was a large area (2 ft. x 1ft or 5ft x 1ft.) that needed to be cut out.   
 
I've seen different recommendations for how to handle...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, <br />
<br />
I've had to patch some large areas of drywall after a bathroom and kitchen remodel.   Essentially, the 30-year-old drywall had crumbled at the base, or there was a large area (2 ft. x 1ft or 5ft x 1ft.) that needed to be cut out.  <br />
<br />
I've seen different recommendations for how to handle this.  <br />
<br />
<b>QUESTION</b>: Cut the drywall hole to half of the surrounding studs?  Cut the drywall to the nearest stud, then sister the stud with another 2x4?   A 2x2 furring strip?   Or fasten furring strips to the drywall, then fasten the drywall patch to the furring strips (doesn't seem right for large areas)? <br />
<br />
Cutting to half of a stud seems to leave you very little area to screw into. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>QUESTION 2:  </b>What's the best wood to use for this (especially in areas prone to moisture, like a bathroom)?  Green Douglas Fir (GDF) studs?  Lowes also sells &quot;whitewood&quot; studs, which I believe is used for trim and possibly comes from different sources?  They're more expensive, but I'm assuming not better.  If I sister a 2x4 to an existing 2x4, will it bow or split as it the newer wood dries at a different rate than the older wood?  Or use a pine (or other) furring strip and screw that to the stud, and then drywall to the furring strip? <br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks! <br />
<br />
Scott</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>Scott99999</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/large-drywall-patches-best-way-fix-screw-them-what-57483/</guid>
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			<title>furnace noise</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/furnace-noise-57463/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:31:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Our garage was converted into a living room. The furnace is in here and a closet was built around it . It all looks very nice but the furnace is noisy. We can insulate the solid walls behind and to the side, but is there anyway to insulate the door. Its an accordion slatted door.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Our garage was converted into a living room. The furnace is in here and a closet was built around it . It all looks very nice but the furnace is noisy. We can insulate the solid walls behind and to the side, but is there anyway to insulate the door. Its an accordion slatted door.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>debd</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/furnace-noise-57463/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tiling outside wall</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tiling-outside-wall-57453/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:04:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My question is for design purposes really.  I'm debating about whether or not to butt the tile all the way to the wall with no grout line vs. grouting the joint where the tile connects to the drywall. There won't be a groutline on the left side of the tile, so I didn't want it to look awkward for...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My question is for design purposes really.  I'm debating about whether or not to butt the tile all the way to the wall with no grout line vs. grouting the joint where the tile connects to the drywall. There won't be a groutline on the left side of the tile, so I didn't want it to look awkward for grout only on that one side.  Any suggestions?</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>knighton</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tiling-outside-wall-57453/</guid>
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			<title>Tileing a shower</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tileing-shower-57449/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:34:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Thats what Im doing. I have removed the ABS surround and  plan to tile. The guy at home depot told me to hang vapor lock plastic sheet when the surrounf use to be. Which I did. Now Im going to hang 1/2" backer board over the sheeting with a 1/8 in gap between the boards. I'm going to non-alkli tap...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Thats what Im doing. I have removed the ABS surround and  plan to tile. The guy at home depot told me to hang vapor lock plastic sheet when the surrounf use to be. Which I did. Now Im going to hang 1/2&quot; backer board over the sheeting with a 1/8 in gap between the boards. I'm going to non-alkli tap with some thinkset to join the 1/8 gap.<br />
<br />
My question is should the backboard go all the way down and touch the tub? of should I leave 1/8 gap there too? My 2nd question is when I join on 90 degree walls to gather sould there be a gap there too? Like when I join the back wall to the side wall?<br />
<br />
Also what is the best way to cut the hole for the handle in the for the shower control?<br />
<br />
Thanks!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>irishpitbull</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tileing-shower-57449/</guid>
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			<title>Paint or stain Bi-folds??</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/paint-stain-bi-folds-57439/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:30:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am repacing VERY old closet doors with the same kind. I can't decide if I need to stain or paint them. I'm trying to match a new wood floor. Also thinking about painting the old moulding a different color.  Any ideas? THANKS!!!:)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am repacing VERY old closet doors with the same kind. I can't decide if I need to stain or paint them. I'm trying to match a new wood floor. Also thinking about painting the old moulding a different color.  Any ideas? THANKS!!!:)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>flowergal</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/paint-stain-bi-folds-57439/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Curtainwall glazing vs. "standard" house windows?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/curtainwall-glazing-vs-standard-house-windows-57316/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:26:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am remodeling an old 1950's era house, and would like to open up an entire wall to the back yard, with a large glazed window wall.  I am wondering what the implications of using "storefront" fixed window systems might be.  Has anybody done this and know if the cost is reasonable, compared to big...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am remodeling an old 1950's era house, and would like to open up an entire wall to the back yard, with a large glazed window wall.  I am wondering what the implications of using &quot;storefront&quot; fixed window systems might be.  Has anybody done this and know if the cost is reasonable, compared to big fixed plate windows from Andersen, etc?   Looking for clean-lined modernist look at a decent price.  Wall will be approx 12' x12'.  Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>tpagel</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/curtainwall-glazing-vs-standard-house-windows-57316/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Tub Surround and wall board issue</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tub-surround-wall-board-issue-57311/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:03:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I needed to replace my 40 year old tub faucets.  Seeing as the fixtures back to the chimney (IE no rear access) I had to go through the wall.  My wife decided that since I was doing this anyway, we should get rid of the tile and replace with a 5 piece tub surround. 
  
Plumbing is done.  Tile...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I needed to replace my 40 year old tub faucets.  Seeing as the fixtures back to the chimney (IE no rear access) I had to go through the wall.  My wife decided that since I was doing this anyway, we should get rid of the tile and replace with a 5 piece tub surround.<br />
 <br />
Plumbing is done.  Tile removed.  Now I have the walls.  The paper on the walls (was green board) is pretty much gone.  There is still alot of glue on the walls as well.  I need to replace drywall where the faucets are.  I also have a few smaller holes where my prybar went through while removing the tile (these are sporatic).  Do I need to replace all of the wall board?  Can I just seal it and skim coat it?  I am hoping to get this done soon but if I don't HAVE to replace the wall board, I'm thinking that would be best.  As I said, I will be putting up a 5-piece surround over the walls (Some 8x12 tile around the top as well).</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>THerecanbonly1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/tub-surround-wall-board-issue-57311/</guid>
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			<title>Advice: replacing door knobs and locks?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/advice-replacing-door-knobs-locks-57308/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:46:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there,  
 
Just bought a home and now I'm among the many who are learning to do things for themselves.  We need to replace the door locks on our exterior doors, and really want to replace our interior door knobs as well.  Seems like a fairly simple process - remove and install with little to no...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there, <br />
<br />
Just bought a home and now I'm among the many who are learning to do things for themselves.  We need to replace the door locks on our exterior doors, and really want to replace our interior door knobs as well.  Seems like a fairly simple process - remove and install with little to no modifications?<br />
<br />
Well, what about the real world aspect?  Any advice for a noobie?  What tools do you really need and what can you avoid buying?  Any brands that are easier to install?  More difficult to install?  Does any of it really matter and just buy whatever? LOL<br />
<br />
FYI - We have 3 exterior doors and 10 interior doors to go through.  Likely not all at once, but would like to have them done in a short period of time (over 2 or 3 weekends).<br />
<br />
Thanks for the advice!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>Eusibius2</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/advice-replacing-door-knobs-locks-57308/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Old Carpet & Carpet pads]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/old-carpet-carpet-pads-57180/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:52:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>i tore out some carpet today and now have a semi-tidy stack of carpet strips and a pile of old padding.  i plan on reusing some of the carpet as temporary door mats and padding on saw horses so i can refinish some wood around the house - but the carpet pad is still there.  are there any viable...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>i tore out some carpet today and now have a semi-tidy stack of carpet strips and a pile of old padding.  i plan on reusing some of the carpet as temporary door mats and padding on saw horses so i can refinish some wood around the house - but the carpet pad is still there.  are there any viable reuse methods for old carpet padding?  it is in good shape - i just dont know what to do with it other than toss it.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>cellophane</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/old-carpet-carpet-pads-57180/</guid>
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			<title>how can i cover brick?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/how-can-i-cover-brick-57165/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:25:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*My house is an ugly thin brick. I really dont like it. I was told i can use stuko. Was looking for other options. anyone got any suggestions?*</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b><font face="Palatino Linotype">My house is an ugly thin brick. I really dont like it. I was told i can use stuko. Was looking for other options. anyone got any suggestions?</font></b></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>jupiter824</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/how-can-i-cover-brick-57165/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>expensive windows</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/expensive-windows-57127/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:10:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, 
thanks for your help in advance.  
ok without saying the window manu. name, I am trying to buy similar windows I bought 3 years ago. now the windows went up in price,  
I can swallow it (almost) but I recall we were charged a good sum per each window just for the (metal) spacer bar in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all,<br />
thanks for your help in advance. <br />
ok without saying the window manu. name, I am trying to buy similar windows I bought 3 years ago. now the windows went up in price, <br />
I can swallow it (almost) but I recall we were charged a good sum per each window just for the (metal) spacer bar in between the simulated divided lite. So this time I asked on the third round of revised estimates to drop the metal spacer bar on the windows, and they took off $10 bucks per window. Not per pane of glass or per simulated pane but per window. roughly, it's almost just 1 percent of the total price? yes almost a grand a window and these are not large windows by any means. How could that be? with metal through the roof lately? am I being takened for a ride? totally frustrated here, please, anyone knowledge of these windows from Minn., I would greatly appreciate your advise, besides the most obvious answer. thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>sammynj</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/expensive-windows-57127/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>thermal windows cloudy</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/thermal-windows-cloudy-56985/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:00:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I hope this is the right location for this. I have several metal vertical sliding windows in my home that the seals are damaged and the gas charge has been lost causing clouding between the pieces of glass. I removed one section the other day and it appears that by removing some screws the frame...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I hope this is the right location for this. I have several metal vertical sliding windows in my home that the seals are damaged and the gas charge has been lost causing clouding between the pieces of glass. I removed one section the other day and it appears that by removing some screws the frame will loosen enough to replace the glass yourself. I've had two glass companies give me prices and the average is about $100-$130 apiece. I have a total of about 12 or so that need replacing. Is this something a homeowner should tackle?????.<br />
<br />
I'm sure there is more to this than I see. Any suggestions would be helpful.<br />
<br />
Thank you</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>archbarb</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/thermal-windows-cloudy-56985/</guid>
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			<title>Amateur basement remodeler - help needed</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/amateur-basement-remodeler-help-needed-56968/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:45:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all.  Re-doing 1400 sq ft of basement.  Electric, plumbing and drywall all went (miraculously) without a hitch.  Pretty much doing everything myself (less electric). 
Anyway, I know the proper order of completing projects but its doesn't make common sense to me.  I've got cabinets on back order...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all.  Re-doing 1400 sq ft of basement.  Electric, plumbing and drywall all went (miraculously) without a hitch.  Pretty much doing everything myself (less electric).<br />
Anyway, I know the proper order of completing projects but its doesn't make common sense to me.  I've got cabinets on back order (won't get for 2 weeks).  It seems to me no reason why I just can't paint and at least start on flooring now (using click laminate) rather than put everything on hold for 2 weeks waiting for bar and bath cabinets.<br />
I would think painting now would make things easier (no worries about paint splatter on new floors, etc.) by doing it now.  Ditto with laminate flooring.  The area I'll be sstarting in is nowhere near where the cabinets are going.  I know I need to install cabinets before flooring in those areas - but why not start on this now?<br />
I'm not a builder by trade (obviously) and some of the &quot;completion steps&quot; conventionally followed seems a little counter-intuitive to me.<br />
 <br />
Any advise would be appreciated.<br />
 <br />
Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/">Remodeling</category>
			<dc:creator>lupin62</dc:creator>
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