http://www.diychatroom.com en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:05:47 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.diychatroom.com http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/annie5-57591/ Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:19:14 GMT What is the proper way to frame a floor over uneven cement? When remodeling after a fire, the living area (on a concrete slab) was extended into the back end of the garage (that ell is about 6 x 12') and down the side (3' strip). The garage cement floor is lower than the living area slab by about 2', and it slopes down to the front.

I cannot do the work myself (age and health), but I need to know what I should have done and should be looking for.

I had the 5/8" plywood floor taken off to check that it would be okay to lay ceramic tile there. The framing does not look stable at all.

In some places the sides are fully resting on a cement sill, but not all. On the side of the ell towards the garage, there is a 2 x 8 that really isn’t supported by anything except the cross joists which are in turn supported by the arrangement described below.

From the living area to the end of the ell, there are 2 x 8 joists going across, spaced 12” and 16” oc. On the outer side (what was the back end of the garage), they are hung over the cement sill with notches half way down them. Isn't that too much weakened?

Underneath the joists going across the ell, apparently for leveling, there are pieces of 2 x 4 here and there (no particular pattern) lying on the 4” side against the cement, many with some wedges (even the occasional skinny piece of scrap wood) on top of them as shims under the joists.

Along the living area slab, there is a 2 x 8 resting on a concrete “ledge” which appears to have been chipped out of the slab (or a separator?), but the ledge is so bumpy the board and concrete are not in full contact… there are significant gaps (up to at least ½”) between them for long stretches.

On the outer wall of the strip (toward the garage), there is a 2 x 4 directly on cement (on 2” side), then another board overhanging that by an inch or so, then two boards with sides butting on top of that overhanging by another inch or so. Doesn’t make sense to me.

Also, although there are no cracks in the slab in the original living area, there is a crack in the cement in the portion of the garage incorporated into the living area – a gap of ¼ to 3/8” wide, running crookedly for about 3’. One side of the crack begins butted tight to the cement which separates the higher living area slab from the garage slab, while the other side of the crack begins ¼” or more away from that separator. It appears that the tight part buckled.

This whole thing can't be right, can it? Am I right in thinking I need to have all that taken out and start again? I would appreciate any guidance you can offer, as I would like to be sure it's done right this time.

I don't know what kind of wood is there. Some seems to have a lot of knotholes. Some seems to be treated, but not most. ]]> Carpentry Annie5 http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/annie5-57591/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/carpentry-roofing-57547/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:15:34 GMT I have a house with a flat top roof and I'm concerned about the boards that create the overhang from the edge of the roof. They appear to be 1X12 boards and run the entire perimeter of the roof. Some of them are warped and starting to pull away from the underlying structure. I would like to get them replaced before they create serious moisture damage and or compromise the actual roofing surface. Can anyone tell me the proper material to use for this job and the basics for attacking the problem? Thanks!!!:( ]]> Carpentry bigdinla http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/carpentry-roofing-57547/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/stain-57539/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:26:12 GMT getting redy to start staining pine tounge and groove for my ceiling, does anybody have any advice or tips on types of stain, or colors. considering minwax poly shades. not much experience staining getting redy to start staining pine tounge and groove for my ceiling, does anybody have any advice or tips on types of stain, or colors. considering minwax poly shades. not much experience staining ]]> Carpentry roadhouse http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/stain-57539/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/coping-crown-molding-so-cal-57508/ Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:28:25 GMT I am a newbie with light experience getting set to hang crown molding throughout my home. It has all the challenges, including cathedral ceilings, high walls, bullnose outside corners, and even a curved area that I belive will require a custom order rubber molding. They were glued with Titebond.... I am a newbie with light experience getting set to hang crown molding throughout my home. It has all the challenges, including cathedral ceilings, high walls, bullnose outside corners, and even a curved area that I belive will require a custom order rubber molding. They were glued with Titebond.

I have done one small rook, a "powder room" with some 130 and 90 degree inside corners. Nothing was coped but the longest wall was 5 feet. As it is paint grade mdf and a tad of caulking was used, it came out great. I understand that inside corners of pieces hung on longer walls are more likely to open up with time.

My house is in Southern California inside of the coastal zone. I mention this because Gary Katz mentions in one of his DVD's that you have to clone inside corners, unless the crown is short, UNLESS you are in Southern California. I hear a lot of people saying cope ALL inside corners.

I have a very accurate compoound miter saw and I think I have learned to use it properly. Thanks Mr. Katz.


I was all set to lay down $24.97 for a Collins Coping Foot, until I talked with Mr. Collins and learned it won't work with my 18 year old Sears Sabre Saw. I don't know if I want to invest in another jig saw. I believe some cope with a jig saw without a special coping foot.

I have a coping saw, which is an alternative. One other possibility is the "EasyCoper". I believe some of you have experience with it. It looks as thought it's use may be limited to 90 degree inside corners. No?

Other methods I have read about include augering out the backside with grinders and even a table saw. How you do it on a table saw is beyond me.

Suggestions, please. ]]> Carpentry Klawman http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/coping-crown-molding-so-cal-57508/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/what-decent-but-inexpensive-jig-saw-57480/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:56:14 GMT I would like to get a jig saw for coping crown molding with a Collins Coping Foot. I have a 20" year old Craftsman Sabre Saw model 315 that the coping foot isn't compatible with. I may just have to pick up a used saw as it won't get used for anything but coping the molding I am putting up in my house. Perhaps I should try coping by hand with the $5.00 coping saw that has been gathering dust for years in the garage? ]]> Carpentry Klawman http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/what-decent-but-inexpensive-jig-saw-57480/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/building-soffit-57465/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:38:31 GMT building a room in my basement ..need to build soffit to cover 2 heat ducts a waste water pipe and steel support beam ..they are close enough together so I will be building a 6' x 14' soffit to cover them ....if I do it out of 2 x 2 's will the 6' span bow ?.... I cant support it in the center because of heat duct ....guess if I had to I could make two soffits but I think it would look better with one ..thanks ]]> Carpentry 44070dart http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/building-soffit-57465/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/gable-trim-metal-roof-57462/ Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:30:32 GMT I am building a new garage and I will be installing a metal roof. The garage is only feet from the house which has a shingled roof with 1 ½ " drip edge over cedar fascia on the gable end. I am considering using drip edge over cedar fascia on the gable end of my metal garage roof instead of gable trim so it matches the house. Is this an acceptable practice for installing a metal roof? Or, does the metal roof need the gable trim to keep moisture out? ]]> Carpentry jm1542 http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/gable-trim-metal-roof-57462/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/nailer-crown-molding-57391/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 17:40:01 GMT I am still having trouble selecting nailers. The difficulty is compounded by the fact that I have some pretty bad wrist pain at times. I wonder if 1 16 gauge would put less stress on it than a 15. (This is for a big DYI project but not for day in day out.) I also think twisting a straight nailer,... I am still having trouble selecting nailers. The difficulty is compounded by the fact that I have some pretty bad wrist pain at times. I wonder if 1 16 gauge would put less stress on it than a 15. (This is for a big DYI project but not for day in day out.) I also think twisting a straight nailer, which most 16 gauges are, may aggravate the wrist problem. So should I pay a little extra for more expensive 16 angle and slightly more for a 16 angle gun?

On antoher note, I am looking at Bostitch and wondering about the reviews on line. They are either glowing or they trash Bostitch. Should I stay away from the brand?

Lastly, forget about compressors. Is it a good idea to get an nailer that doesn't need to be oiled?

TIA ]]> Carpentry Klawman http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/nailer-crown-molding-57391/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/how-make-existing-4-x-4-longer-57359/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:44:16 GMT What would someone recommend to extend the length of an existing 4 x 4 that is cannot be replaced?

Situation: A friend of ours just had a new post frame building installed. The building will be used as a horse stalling barn. The 4 x 4's that they cemented into the ground ended up not being long enough for the stalls. Is there a way to add an extra 1-2 feet without major issues? The only thing the 4 X 4 addition would be holding would be a 75 pound stall door. If anyone has a suggestion please let me know. ]]> Carpentry mbell http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/how-make-existing-4-x-4-longer-57359/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/wood-ogers-please-help-57350/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:24:31 GMT Hi ther gents - Does anyone have any suggestions for a wood type for a paddle? The paddle will be used for stand up surfing. The shaft will be approx 6ft long. It needs to be mostly stiff with maybe just a little flex. Is laminated poplar and Oak a decent pair? Oak/Cedar? Lastly, how in the heck do... Hi ther gents - Does anyone have any suggestions for a wood type for a paddle? The paddle will be used for stand up surfing. The shaft will be approx 6ft long. It needs to be mostly stiff with maybe just a little flex. Is laminated poplar and Oak a decent pair? Oak/Cedar? Lastly, how in the heck do I get that waxy looking finish on the paddle? Paddle needs to be sealed as will be in the water but I don't want it to be slippery like it would be if varnished. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Mahalo,
Ray B. ]]> Carpentry RayB http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/wood-ogers-please-help-57350/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/joist-cutting-new-bathroom-57335/ Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:15:04 GMT I am installing a new bathroom and have true (100 yo house) 2x10 joists with a 12' span and would need to cut three of these joists for the 3" waste. The cuts would be located roughly 18" from one end. Unfortunately I have a stained glass window directly below where the bathroom is to be located and my only option is to cut.
The joists are located on the first floor. The house is three stories and has a full basement.
Open to suggestions. ]]> Carpentry SJERSEY http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/joist-cutting-new-bathroom-57335/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/quality-door-closing-fact-rumor-57333/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:36:22 GMT I just heard from a friend that Quality Door is shutting down at the end of December has anyone else heard this?:confused1: Feed back would be appreciated regading this. I just heard from a friend that Quality Door is shutting down at the end of December has anyone else heard this?:confused1: Feed back would be appreciated regading this. ]]> Carpentry G.Barker http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/quality-door-closing-fact-rumor-57333/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/miter-saw-stand-location-57324/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:44:03 GMT I have decided not to buy a stand for my compound miter saw but build something but I have a question that may seem ludicrous to ask. Still, here goes.

I know I don't want a fixed miter saw station against a wall of my garage, as space is limited. There are so nice plans out here for stands with limited mobility (cabinet type on casters).

I am wondering if I will save a lot of time and hassle if I knock togeter something more mobile that can be set up in or just outside of the room I am working on, of which a half are upstairs. There is a landing with ample space to set up a saw, but fortet lugging a cabient type stand up stairs.

Watcha think. Cabinet on casters or saw horse style? I am leaning towards something like these.







There are variations and someone opined that he doesn't like stands that have solid fences beyond the saw becasue if if you are cutting a board that's slightly warped, you won't get a square cut. I wouldn't think that would apply to crown molding, which is what I will use it for, as the material will be held firmly against the surface of the saw's table.

Help? ]]> Carpentry Klawman http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/miter-saw-stand-location-57324/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/source-lumber-57306/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:17:45 GMT I am in the planning stages of building a poster bed. I am having difficulty finding a source for 4"x4" Red Oak.

I live in Las Vegas, NV There is 1 store listed for hardwoods "Ashton Hardwoods" problem is they are across town and only open durring the hours I work.

Is there a good place online to order lumber? ]]> Carpentry Jwolf24601 http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/source-lumber-57306/ http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/customizing-pre-hung-door-57296/ Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:57:15 GMT I have a standard pre-hung door that I want to cut down to fit a doorway in an older house. The door is wood-cored vinyl, and I estimate that I will have to narrow it by about 1 1/2 inches. How difficult is this, and what is the best way to cut the door? Thanks I have a standard pre-hung door that I want to cut down to fit a doorway in an older house. The door is wood-cored vinyl, and I estimate that I will have to narrow it by about 1 1/2 inches. How difficult is this, and what is the best way to cut the door?

Thanks ]]> Carpentry Martin1 http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/customizing-pre-hung-door-57296/