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		<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Carpentry</title>
		<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
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		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 01:36:13 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum - Carpentry</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Plywood beadboard Ceiling</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/plywood-beadboard-ceiling-80574/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 16:01:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We are building a small apartment in a newly constructed metal building.  the ceiling height will be a 12'  peak.  We want to install beadboard throughout the apartment and on the ceiling.  I need ideas on joining the T&G beadboard on the raw ends.   
  
Thanks:wink:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We are building a small apartment in a newly constructed metal building.  the ceiling height will be a 12'  peak.  We want to install beadboard throughout the apartment and on the ceiling.  I need ideas on joining the T&amp;G beadboard on the raw ends.  <br />
 <br />
Thanks:wink:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>jksj99</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/plywood-beadboard-ceiling-80574/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>OK to use brads making stud wall?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/ok-use-brads-making-stud-wall-80570/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 14:01:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[For speed and ease, I'd like to use my Bostitch compressor and brad gun to put together 2x4s in a non-load bearing wall in the cellar. I'm making a workshop and want to put pegboards on the 2x4s to hang my tools. 
 
Is that OK, or must I really use nails?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>For speed and ease, I'd like to use my Bostitch compressor and brad gun to put together 2x4s in a non-load bearing wall in the cellar. I'm making a workshop and want to put pegboards on the 2x4s to hang my tools.<br />
<br />
Is that OK, or must I really use nails?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>boru</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/ok-use-brads-making-stud-wall-80570/</guid>
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			<title>How to support counter top</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/how-support-counter-top-80563/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 11:03:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am converting a closet into a dry bar in my new basement media room. The countertop material is 1 1/2" laminate covered particle board - a flat slab not the type with the overhang and backsplash. I want to install the counter across the width of the closet, which is 38". There will not be...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am converting a closet into a dry bar in my new basement media room. The countertop material is 1 1/2&quot; laminate covered particle board - a flat slab not the type with the overhang and backsplash. I want to install the counter across the width of the closet, which is 38&quot;. There will not be cabinets below the counter so I have to build some sort of support for the counter. I plan to put a support piece across the back and one on each side. Do I need to put supports across the center? The counter won't have to support much weight - just a small microwave and a space to pour drinks. i guess what I'm really asking is if the particle board will sag in the center without support.<br />
<br />
Hope this makes sense.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>artlover13060</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/how-support-counter-top-80563/</guid>
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			<title>Bi-Fold Door handle replacement</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/bi-fold-door-handle-replacement-80540/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 05 Sep 2010 00:17:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We have metal Bi-Fold doors that need new handles. The handles are about 2 inches wide, to be put only on the outside of the doors which are thin metal surface. Unfortunately the handles are sold with 1"-1 1/2" screws which are too long for the job. We need some sort of spacer to fill in the lenght...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We have metal Bi-Fold doors that need new handles. The handles are about 2 inches wide, to be put only on the outside of the doors which are thin metal surface. Unfortunately the handles are sold with 1&quot;-1 1/2&quot; screws which are too long for the job. We need some sort of spacer to fill in the lenght of the screw, since we aren't able to cut the screws. Any ideas? Thanks;)</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>Fye</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/bi-fold-door-handle-replacement-80540/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Repair / Replace Deck Railing & Balusters]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/repair-replace-deck-railing-balusters-80523/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 21:46:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, 
 
I have a relatively cheap pressure treated pine deck and railings.  I would like to replace some of the warped balusters which appear to be tacked to the upper and lower 2x4 railings via a strip of some tack board. 
 
What is the best way to remove the old ones and attach replacements? ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I have a relatively cheap pressure treated pine deck and railings.  I would like to replace some of the warped balusters which appear to be tacked to the upper and lower 2x4 railings via a strip of some tack board.<br />
<br />
What is the best way to remove the old ones and attach replacements?  What types of screws/nails?  Thanks!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>cs006b</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/repair-replace-deck-railing-balusters-80523/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>ceiling material for old 12 foot ceiling homes built in 1915</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/ceiling-material-old-12-foot-ceiling-homes-built-1915-a-80461/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 19:59:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>my house was built in 1915. I have 12 foot ceilings and the old hardboards are bowing out. I have removed all the blown in insulatoin from the attic and need to replace the ceilings before I place roll down insulation batting in the attic. what type of ceiling matierials can I obtain ? 
  
what...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>my house was built in 1915. I have 12 foot ceilings and the old hardboards are bowing out. I have removed all the blown in insulatoin from the attic and need to replace the ceilings before I place roll down insulation batting in the attic. what type of ceiling matierials can I obtain ?<br />
 <br />
what ceiling materials can i use to replace the hardboard ceilings in my home so I can install roll down insulation in the attic? My home is very old built in early 1900's in georgia. Hardboard ceilings are bowing out and need to be replaced. Do not want to use hardboard again. any suggestions?<br />
I am trying to replace old hardboard ceilings? Can I use 1/2 inch plywood instead and will it hold roll down insulation?<br />
I just started working on the inside of my home and need some information on replacement materials.<br />
 <br />
<i><font color="blue">2 threads on same issue merged</font></i><br />
<i><font color="blue">Moderator</font></i></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>jeanne starr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/ceiling-material-old-12-foot-ceiling-homes-built-1915-a-80461/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Can I replace this 2X4"?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/can-i-replace-2x4-80445/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 15:47:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have some crawl space under a staircase, so it's "ceiling" is 45 degree-sloped. The depth of the space at the bottom is about 50". Width is about 32" with the 2X4 splitting it in half. Height is 30". I want to install some type of heavy-duty slide-out shelving, but I have the supporting 2X4 that...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have some crawl space under a staircase, so it's &quot;ceiling&quot; is 45 degree-sloped. The depth of the space at the bottom is about 50&quot;. Width is about 32&quot; with the 2X4 splitting it in half. Height is 30&quot;. I want to install some type of heavy-duty slide-out shelving, but I have the supporting 2X4 that splits the space in half. I prefer to have one shelf, not two, so can I remove the 2X4&quot; and replace it with some type of additional support e.g. along the sides of the crawlspace? <br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>ilyaz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/can-i-replace-2x4-80445/</guid>
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			<title>Plugging Deadbolt Hole in Solid Wood Door</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/plugging-deadbolt-hole-solid-wood-door-80439/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 14:34:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a couple of wood interior doors in my house that have deadbolts on them from when there was two apartments in the house.   The doors are orignal to the house circa 1890 and I want to patch the holes since all the other original doors are still on the house. 
  
I have one original door that...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a couple of wood interior doors in my house that have deadbolts on them from when there was two apartments in the house.   The doors are orignal to the house circa 1890 and I want to patch the holes since all the other original doors are still on the house.<br />
 <br />
I have one original door that I can cannabilze for the plugs as it has been cut to a short length and not usable anymore.<br />
 <br />
What should I use to fill the gap around the plug?    Wood filler?    The doors are stained not painted.    Once suggestion I had was to save the sawdust from the cut of the plug and mix with glue to fill the gap.<br />
 <br />
Looking for suggestiions on how to best tackle and make it look beautiful again.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>tmex</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/plugging-deadbolt-hole-solid-wood-door-80439/</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>fasteners estimation</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/fasteners-estimation-80426/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 12:40:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What rule of thumb can be used to estimate hardware needs? (as percentage of lumber framing cost or entire project applying hardiebacker). I am building an outdoor kitchen with wood framing. For example, is 20% hardware allowance or 10% or what % is the rule?  Or if not percentage of lumber cost,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What rule of thumb can be used to estimate hardware needs? (as percentage of lumber framing cost or entire project applying hardiebacker). I am building an outdoor kitchen with wood framing. For example, is 20% hardware allowance or 10% or what % is the rule?  Or if not percentage of lumber cost, what about by linear foot of project?<br />
<br />
Would like to estimate at 2 prices - good (galvanized or equivalent) and best (stainless steel or equivalent).<br />
<br />
Last, what's the cheapest way to get lumber posts off a concrete slab? Looking for a metal plate not a connector, as such. Very cheap solution needed, thanx. Can't find what I need at Lowes or HD. They sell structural- type solutions. I need a simpler solution. Not trying to control movement.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>pmarc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/fasteners-estimation-80426/</guid>
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			<title>Help - trying to find shelving hardware</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/help-trying-find-shelving-hardware-80422/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 11:54:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm trying to find these shelving brackets (see attached image) that I bought about 15 year ago. 
 
they come as a kit with the vertical slotted metal that are screwed to the 2x4 vertical supports, along with metal ends that screw to the horizontal 2x4s that fit in the slots of the vertical...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm trying to find these shelving brackets (see attached image) that I bought about 15 year ago.<br />
<br />
they come as a kit with the vertical slotted metal that are screwed to the 2x4 vertical supports, along with metal ends that screw to the horizontal 2x4s that fit in the slots of the vertical supports.<br />
<br />
I used to have the small manual that came with them but can't find it anymore, so I have not been able to find out the manufacturers name so as to buy more.<br />
<br />
I bought these at Menards in Waterloo, Iowa. In my opinion they are simply fantastic. I build probably 10 shelves for the basement and garage. When moving out of Iowa I left most of them there (I really regret that now).<br />
<br />
I have for over a year now been looking in home improvement (Lowes, Home Depot) and hardware stores (Ace, True Value, Do It) around the midwest (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois and Missouri).<br />
<br />
Has anyone seen these before? Do you now the manufacturer of them?<br />
<br />
You would make my day / year if you do you.<br />
<br />
Thank you,<br />
<br />
Karl</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>karlg</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/help-trying-find-shelving-hardware-80422/</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[partition wall of plumb 3/4" in 8 feet, help]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/partition-wall-plumb-3-4-8-feet-help-80408/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 05:17:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I am in the middle of a kitchen re-mod and I am looking at the wall seperating the kitchen from dinning room, it has a 3" opening that's finished in drywall.  I though something looked wierd so I put a 6.5 foot level on the wall and was just shocked?   I had my drywall guy look at it and it...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I am in the middle of a kitchen re-mod and I am looking at the wall seperating the kitchen from dinning room, it has a 3&quot; opening that's finished in drywall.  I though something looked wierd so I put a 6.5 foot level on the wall and was just shocked?   I had my drywall guy look at it and it appears the each side of the opening is opening toward the dinning roomat the bottom plate. I.e. there is a 3/4 gap at the bottom plate on the kitchen side and a 3/4&quot; gap towards the header on the opposite side in the dinning room.   Opening a can of worms to fix???  <br />
 <br />
Drywall guy said cut the nails holding the bottom plate to the slab on each side of the door opening and knock the bottom plate on each side in towards the kitchen and re-bolt the bottom plate to the slab then re-do the drywall.<br />
 <br />
This is not a loadbearing wall, does this sound correct?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>titan7</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/partition-wall-plumb-3-4-8-feet-help-80408/</guid>
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			<title>painters tape glue on woodwork</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/painters-tape-glue-woodwork-80271/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:44:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>how to get glue from painters tape off cherry wood that has been varnished a number of times the wood is dull looking now  do not want to re stain the wood</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>how to get glue from painters tape off cherry wood that has been varnished a number of times the wood is dull looking now  do not want to re stain the wood</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>mbutts54</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/painters-tape-glue-woodwork-80271/</guid>
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			<title>New entry door</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/new-entry-door-80264/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 21:39:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi I'm looking in to putting in a new front door and it measures 34"or 2'10". The R.O. is 36" to jack stud to jack stud .  went to home depot and a 34" door is a special order  ($150 more). I live in mass and the code is 36" for entry doors.  Can I  just put in a 34" door by code so wont have to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I'm looking in to putting in a new front door and it measures 34&quot;or 2'10&quot;. The R.O. is 36&quot; to jack stud to jack stud .  went to home depot and a 34&quot; door is a special order  ($150 more). I live in mass and the code is 36&quot; for entry doors.  Can I  just put in a 34&quot; door by code so wont have to reframe RO or mess with the  horse hair plaster around the door?<br />
'<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'<br />
'</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>Boston Bean</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/new-entry-door-80264/</guid>
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			<title>car siding</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/car-siding-80232/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 17:10:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>molding  do you do frist and but up toit or put on after</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>molding  do you do frist and but up toit or put on after</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>redlagoon50</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/car-siding-80232/</guid>
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			<title>crown and  difficult angles</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/crown-difficult-angles-80211/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 12:06:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am working on a wall where the fireplace just out 5 inches on a 20 degree sloped ceiling. I have been successful in adding a transition piece to cause the piece of molding to slop up to the 90 that will be the face of the fireplace. This is where the problem sets in .. this is a strange...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am working on a wall where the fireplace just out 5 inches on a 20 degree sloped ceiling. I have been successful in adding a transition piece to cause the piece of molding to slop up to the 90 that will be the face of the fireplace. This is where the problem sets in .. this is a strange intersection. The moldings will not match up and I am standing in ankle deep sawdust with molding remnants stacking up around my feet,.,, HELP<br />
 <br />
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Spectrum%20Sound/Desktop/cath1.jpg[/IMG]<br />
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Spectrum%20Sound/Desktop/cath1.jpg[/IMG]</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/">Carpentry</category>
			<dc:creator>legacy118</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/crown-difficult-angles-80211/</guid>
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