<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum</title>
		<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
		<description>DIY Repair and Home Improvement forum. Helping You to Do It Yourself!</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:58:28 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.diychatroom.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>DIY Chatroom -  DIY Home Improvement Forum</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>How to mark oval hole for flue penetration</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-mark-oval-hole-flue-penetration-57621/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:52:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Sealing a ceiling penetration for a hot water heater flue on a slanted ceiling.  What's the easiest tip/trick for transferring the measurement for a round flue pipe onto the sheet metal, where the cutout will have to be an oval due to the slant of the ceiling?   
 
I know there has to be an easy...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sealing a ceiling penetration for a hot water heater flue on a slanted ceiling.  What's the easiest tip/trick for transferring the measurement for a round flue pipe onto the sheet metal, where the cutout will have to be an oval due to the slant of the ceiling?  <br />
<br />
I know there has to be an easy way to do this!  And I'm sure it will work better and get a tighter fit than my trial and error method would!  <br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>akguy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-mark-oval-hole-flue-penetration-57621/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Welding advice ?? Any welders out there ?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/welding-advice-any-welders-out-there-57620/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:35:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>As some of you may know from my other post, I have been battling a post in my basement. The proposed engineer approved solution is to support the existing beam by welding 2 pieces of channel steel along the length of the existing beam. So I have ordered 2  C9 X 13.4 pieces of channel.  
  
The...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As some of you may know from my other post, I have been battling a post in my basement. The proposed engineer approved solution is to support the existing beam by welding 2 pieces of channel steel along the length of the existing beam. So I have ordered 2  C9 X 13.4 pieces of channel. <br />
 <br />
The design calls for tack welds for every 12 inches.<br />
The beam is an I beam which is 8 inches high.<br />
 <br />
My question is I have a welder, Lincoln Electric 20 amp 120 v unit and I'm prepared to do the welding myself. Would this welder be sufficient to do the job ?<br />
 <br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Dave</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Dave Clee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/welding-advice-any-welders-out-there-57620/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help adding a dimmer to my lighting system.</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=57619</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:27:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So here is my setup : I have an outside light that can be controlled by 3 switches inside my home.  
  
I believe that the two outer switches are just 3 way switches and the middle one is a 4 way?  
  
  
I looked at the middle switch (the 4 way) and it has like 6 wires coming out of the switch. 
 ...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So here is my setup : I have an outside light that can be controlled by 3 switches inside my home. <br />
 <br />
I believe that the two outer switches are just 3 way switches and the middle one is a 4 way? <br />
 <br />
 <br />
I looked at the middle switch (the 4 way) and it has like 6 wires coming out of the switch.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
I replaced one of the outer switches with my new dimmer switch and it works only when I have the middle switch (the 4 way postioned &quot;ON&quot;)<br />
 <br />
NOW FOR THE problem the &quot;4 way switch does not turn the light on and off anymore it kinda just turns on the dimmer switch to work!<br />
 <br />
PLEASE help. thanks so much in advanced.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>hotskate</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=57619</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>removable walls</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/removable-walls-57618/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:17:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I currently don't have a shop space so I am using my covered back porch.  At the moment I have just few enough tools that I can keep them completely out of the weather, but I am picking up a table saw today so I need to find a better way to keep the elements away from my tools. 
I used to work at a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I currently don't have a shop space so I am using my covered back porch.  At the moment I have just few enough tools that I can keep them completely out of the weather, but I am picking up a table saw today so I need to find a better way to keep the elements away from my tools.<br />
I used to work at a children's museum fabricating exhibits.  While I was there I learned how to make 4X8 wall sections that would lock together but could easily be taken down and stored.  Basically you frame a 4X8 section with horizontal studs every 36&quot; then put some sort of skin on one or both sides depending on the application.  I was thinking this would work very well for in may case.  My question is what wood will hold up best to the weather?  Cost is an issue so I'm hoping the answer will be OSB.  The walls will most likely have to hold up for about a year until I can dig out and build a basement under my house.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Dr. Awsome</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/removable-walls-57618/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Tiling in cold weather</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tiling-cold-weather-57617/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:46:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a sunroom 100sq' in area that isn't heated.  Temps here in Virginia can get down to 32F.  The question is, should I wait until spring to tile or what are the tricks for tiling in cold weather....type grout, thin set, durock or hardibacker what about the effects of cold and hot weather on the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a sunroom 100sq' in area that isn't heated.  Temps here in Virginia can get down to 32F.  The question is, should I wait until spring to tile or what are the tricks for tiling in cold weather....type grout, thin set, durock or hardibacker what about the effects of cold and hot weather on the flexing?  The present floor is tongue and groove wood underfloor is plywood.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/">Flooring</category>
			<dc:creator>pglc</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/tiling-cold-weather-57617/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Touching Up The Primer - Without Leaving Marks?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/touching-up-primer-without-leaving-marks-57616/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:27:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[One room which was skim coated, the workers didn't sand it too good and there were also some defects that needed fixing...I noticed this after priming. 
 
I went back and compounded some places on walls and ceiling to smooth out some screening marks and also small voids and defects. So there's a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>One room which was skim coated, the workers didn't sand it too good and there were also some defects that needed fixing...I noticed this after priming.<br />
<br />
I went back and compounded some places on walls and ceiling to smooth out some screening marks and also small voids and defects. So there's a bunch of small patches of compound a few inches in diameter...but there's also a several areas with at least a foot diameter - or even two feet -  of compound touch up. These newly compounded areas have all been sanded and blended.<br />
<br />
What is the recommended method of dealing with these post-priming patches? Should they be primed or is it OK just painting the top coat* over them? My gut tells me they need primer, but I do not want to leave roller or brush marks which might telegraph through the topcoat, especially brush marks. So, I'm thinking spot rolling these areas with a pretty dry roller (Ben Moore Fresh Start primer) will blend the new primer in leaving minimal marks. Does that work, or is it necessary to re-prime the entire room.<br />
<br />
Is there a better way?<br />
<br />
*Ceiling paint will be Ben Moore Moresco and wall paint will be Ben Moore Regal, Flat or Matte.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Lovegasoline</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/touching-up-primer-without-leaving-marks-57616/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Venetian Plaster</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/venetian-plaster-57615/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:50:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi I apply and train people on the craft of fine wall finish (Venetian plaster) applicaiton in Southern California.   Fine wall finishes are very beautiful when done correctly.  As I consult with professionals, I am happy to offer my advise to the DIYer.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi I apply and train people on the craft of fine wall finish (Venetian plaster) applicaiton in Southern California.   Fine wall finishes are very beautiful when done correctly.  As I consult with professionals, I am happy to offer my advise to the DIYer.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>Plaster Ayn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/venetian-plaster-57615/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Rheem 80% furnace</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/rheem-80-furnace-57614/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:27:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, 
 
I have a 1997 Rheem Criterion II 80% 75k BTU furnace that is vented with 3" vent pipe. I have just learned that this is not correct. The 3" outlet on the furnace should be adapted to 4" according to the specs. The furnace seems to run well. The vent pipe is a straight shot up through the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello,<br />
<br />
I have a 1997 Rheem Criterion II 80% 75k BTU furnace that is vented with 3&quot; vent pipe. I have just learned that this is not correct. The 3&quot; outlet on the furnace should be adapted to 4&quot; according to the specs. The furnace seems to run well. The vent pipe is a straight shot up through the roof, no elbows or adapters. I had the roof replaced last fall. At that time the 3&quot; pipe terminated into a 4&quot; at the roof. The roofers swithced the 4&quot; that was there with the 3&quot; that was on the gas water heater. <br />
<br />
Is this okay or will it cause me problems later or damage the furnace? It has been running like this for years with no problems. Since the roof part was changed to 3&quot;, it will drip water every now and then when the furnace is running, not very much, but it never did this until the roofers switched 4&quot; to the 3&quot;. <br />
<br />
Thanks for you help.:)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>3rdroofdown</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/rheem-80-furnace-57614/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>three way switch question</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/three-way-switch-question-57613/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:43:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 3-/4- way switch set up for a ceiling fan/light.  I want to control the fan and light separately.  I have 12-2 into the first switch location, then 12-3 to switch #2, 12-3 to switch #3, and 12-3 to the fan.  I have a combination switch/3-way switch that I am not sure if I can use.  I want...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 3-/4- way switch set up for a ceiling fan/light.  I want to control the fan and light separately.  I have 12-2 into the first switch location, then 12-3 to switch #2, 12-3 to switch #3, and 12-3 to the fan.  I have a combination switch/3-way switch that I am not sure if I can use.  I want to know if I can control the fan and light separately from location #3 using the combination switch.  The only power into the box at this location is the 12-3 from the 4-way switch at location #2.<br />
<br />
Thx.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>NailedIt</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/three-way-switch-question-57613/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What trpe of insulation for basement rim joist?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/what-trpe-insulation-basement-rim-joist-57612/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:41:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I want to insulate around the rim joist in my basement, above the foundation. What is the proper type of insulation for this area? Faced or Unfaced? I about moisture getting trapped in between the paper and rim joist if I used faced. Is this something I should be worried about? 
 
I prefer faced to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I want to insulate around the rim joist in my basement, above the foundation. What is the proper type of insulation for this area? Faced or Unfaced? I about moisture getting trapped in between the paper and rim joist if I used faced. Is this something I should be worried about?<br />
<br />
I prefer faced to unfaced insulation since it's safer/easier to handle, if it doesn't pose a moisture problem.<br />
<br />
Is exposed fiberglass insulation up around the top of the basement wall hazardous, assuming nobody touches it?<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/"><![CDATA[Building & Construction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>secutanudu</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/what-trpe-insulation-basement-rim-joist-57612/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Insulating basement ceiling - your recommendations?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/insulating-basement-ceiling-your-recommendations-57611/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:31:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Insulating basement ceiling - your recommendations? 
    
  Hello: 
    
  I am looking for recommendations from the forum regarding insulating an unheated basement. I live in eastern Canada - cold winters! I recently bought a small (approx. 1400 square feet) 2-story home (three years old home)...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Insulating basement ceiling - your recommendations?<br />
   <br />
  Hello:<br />
   <br />
  I am looking for recommendations from the forum regarding insulating an unheated basement. I live in eastern Canada - cold winters! I recently bought a small (approx. 1400 square feet) 2-story home (three years old home) that I will live in for a few years while I build my custom home. I would like to make my first floor floors (laminate and vinyl) warmer and increase the overall warmth/efficiency of the first floor (living room, kitchen, hallway). I am considering the following:<br />
   <br />
  -- Insulating the basement ceiling with fibreglass insulation batts. The ceiling is open. <br />
   <br />
  -- NOT insulating the basement walls - currently no insulation on the basement walls (i.e., no sheet Styrofoam) <br />
   <br />
  Remember the basement is currently unheated and I will not heat it - it is storage space only<br />
   <br />
  I only want to do one insulation technique in the basement due to budget (i.e., insulate the floors with batt OR insulate the walls with sheet styro)<br />
   <br />
  My questions for you are:<br />
   <br />
  Q1. Is my rationale right that batt in the ceiling will make the first-floor floors warmer/improve heat above MORE THAN doing the basement walls with styro sheets? My rationale is that batt in the ceilings is directly insulating the first floor floors whereas styro sheets ion the walls is indirect<br />
   <br />
  Q2. IF I do the basement ceilings should I use R12 or R20? I read on a government website that they reco R12 but I think they assumed that the basement walls were already done with styro sheets<br />
   <br />
  Q3. If I do batt the ceilings in basement, I know it will make my basement colder than it is right now but I don't care - it is only a storage space. But if I use R12 or R20 ceiling batts without the walls having styro, should I worry about the basement becoming so cold that my water pipes freeze? Or am I overworrying?<br />
   <br />
  Thanks - great forum!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>jtmann</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/insulating-basement-ceiling-your-recommendations-57611/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Electrical feedback coming through electrical system..Did it fry my laptop?</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/electrical-feedback-coming-through-electrical-system-did-fry-my-laptop-57610/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:54:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We live in an older house that has no ground, when we first moved in and I hooked up my laptop to the charger while using it and running my fingers over the laptops aluminum case or if your arm got close to the case while using it you could feel the electrical current stinging you.  I also have a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We live in an older house that has no ground, when we first moved in and I hooked up my laptop to the charger while using it and running my fingers over the laptops aluminum case or if your arm got close to the case while using it you could feel the electrical current stinging you.  I also have a Proxima surge protector that the entire front is plastic except for the metal name plate and I can feel the electrical current stinging the top of my foot.  I have asked around and someone told me it sounded like someone had wired something backwards in the house.  Would this of burned my laptop up?  I was using it last night and could smell something in it burning and now it won't come on.:furious:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>CTroxtell</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/electrical-feedback-coming-through-electrical-system-did-fry-my-laptop-57610/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Cooktop wiring</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/cooktop-wiring-57609/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:26:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am replacing an old Jenn-Air cooktop with a new GE cooktop. My supply is a three insulated wire receptacle(the Jenn-Air had a plug) with 240 volts. The GE cooktop is 240v with a conduit and two insulated wires and one UNINSULATED copper wire. Can I simply connect the two insulated wires with lugs...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am replacing an old Jenn-Air cooktop with a new GE cooktop. My supply is a three insulated wire receptacle(the Jenn-Air had a plug) with 240 volts. The GE cooktop is 240v with a conduit and two insulated wires and one UNINSULATED copper wire. Can I simply connect the two insulated wires with lugs and connect the copper wire to the white insulated supply wire? My house wiring is probably 50 years old by the way. <br />
 <br />
The G.E. booklet says the cooktop is not to be used with a plug. Does this apply to old wiring circuits as above also? Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>debubba</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/cooktop-wiring-57609/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Non Fading Red Exterior Paint</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/non-fading-red-exterior-paint-57608/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:25:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>1949 wood California Ranch house painted red, every year we have to repaint it because it fads so much. Love the color hate the work. Any suggestion of a long lasting non fading RED exterior paint to use?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1949 wood California Ranch house painted red, every year we have to repaint it because it fads so much. Love the color hate the work. Any suggestion of a long lasting non fading RED exterior paint to use?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/">Painting</category>
			<dc:creator>ericaka</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/non-fading-red-exterior-paint-57608/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Carrier Condensation Leak</title>
			<link>http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-condensation-leak-57607/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:19:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just had my furnace Carrier 58XSC100-101JG repaired and paid $600 to have the control board replaced. The board was burned up and the pro said it was due to a condensation leak dripping down and eventually reaching the control board. He showed me the leak. It was where the PVC exhaust pipe mated...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just had my furnace Carrier 58XSC100-101JG repaired and paid $600 to have the control board replaced. The board was burned up and the pro said it was due to a condensation leak dripping down and eventually reaching the control board. He showed me the leak. It was where the PVC exhaust pipe mated with the exhaust fan assembly. Looking at it today the leak is still there. There is a rubber coupler that clamps onto the unit exhaust fan assembly ~3in diameter (OD) and then clamps to the PVC exhaust pipe that is 2&quot; PVC. (this is a 2in - 3in coupler to the 3in PVC that vents to the outside) The PVC OD is actually 2 3/4in or so. The rubber coupler clamp on the pvc end is tightened all the way so the seal is poor. Thus it still leaks. It seams to me that the Pro I paid should have noticed the mismatch of pipe diameters and the poor seal. The average hardware store has nothing in 3in OD. Does anyone know the proper mating arrangement / parts for coupling the Exhaust fan to PVC exhaust vent piping?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/">HVAC</category>
			<dc:creator>joehomeowner</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-condensation-leak-57607/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
